Clardy J-50 in Progress

bluzman · May 10, 2011

I have a couple of nice Guilds but I want a J45 or J50 body with slope shoulders for a change of pace. A builder in TN is building me a nice custom acoustic based on a Gibson J-50 with round shoulders. Rosewood, Sitka, Mahogany Neck, Ebony Fret Board and Bridge and Maple binding on the body. No binding on the neck.

Here's some pics in progress:

Once this is finished and I build up more dough, I'm planning on locating a nice old Guild F50R.

Frosty · May 10, 2011

Cool beans!

I am a big fan of the slope-shoulder design. The Gibson "standard"... anyone familiar with old Gibson
guitars would laugh at that word... mahogany and 24.9" scale is a J-45/50, rosewood and 25.4" scale
is an Advanced Jumbo "AJ".

Ridgemont · May 11, 2011

Frosty said:
Cool beans!

I am a big fan of the slope-shoulder design. The Gibson "standard"... anyone familiar with old Gibson
guitars would laugh at that word... mahogany and 24.9" scale is a J-45/50, rosewood and 25.4" scale
is an Advanced Jumbo "AJ".

I am not up to date with Gibson info, but do you know the reason in scale length difference between the J-45/50 and the AJ?

Ridgemont · May 11, 2011

Bluzman,

Very very cool and congrats. Of the dreads, I am gaining a big soft spot for the slope shouldered design as opposed to the traditional box Martin standard. I have heard they are more comfortable to play as well. There will probably come a time when I delve into another big guitar and a SS-dread or a 12-fret dread will be in the mix.

Frosty · May 11, 2011

Ridgemont said:
I am not up to date with Gibson info, but do you know the reason in scale length difference between the J-45/50 and the AJ?

I would guess for the same reason specs differ between all models - try to please more customers and sell more guitars!

twocorgis · May 11, 2011

Bluzman,

Very cool guitar you're having made there, and I too am a huge fan of the slope shoulder form. In fact, I really wish Guild would make one. For now, I have a '99 Bourgeois Slope D sitka over mahogany that is easily the loudest guitar in the herd. It's easy to see why later examples of the Slope D were called "BK" for "Banjo Killer.

Sadly, I've played a bunch of Gibson AJs and some of their other slope shoulders, and haven't liked any of them. :roll:

bluzman · Jun 6, 2011

Thanks guys...
It's fun getting updated shots as it comes together.
He's going to use a Martin type bridge made of ebony and an ebony fretboard rather than the turned around old Gibson style.
He said that it was because he liked a more traditional break angle over the saddle and glue surface being in the right place.

...and twocorgis, I haven't been happy with the new and some of the old Gibson sloped shoulders for sale myself which is why I'm having this one
built. He promises that I won't like it... I'll love it. The total price with pickup etc is much less than a new Gibson of this style

Bracing and Top

Binding Detail

bluzman · Jun 8, 2011

A few more updated shots of the fingerboard and neck. It's coming along nicely.

Fingerboard and Neck

fronobulax · Jun 8, 2011

What are the white things with the black tip? I assume some kind of weight to hold things in place while the glue dries, but I have never seen anything like that. Is gravity the force at work or is there some tension in them? What does the end away from the guitar's top look like?

Thanks.

davismanLV · Jun 8, 2011

I always called those "stay sticks" and the other end looks just the same, as far as I've seen. As long as the top plate (there is a parallel plate above the work surface) is lower than the distance between the two ends.... you've got tension and they hold everything in place while the glue dries without having to use heavy clamps. Am I right? Tom in Vegas

fronobulax · Jun 8, 2011

davismanLV said:
I always called those "stay sticks" and the other end looks just the same, as far as I've seen. As long as the top plate (there is a parallel plate above the work surface) is lower than the distance between the two ends.... you've got tension and they hold everything in place while the glue dries without having to use heavy clamps. Am I right? Tom in Vegas

Don't know if you are right but I think I know what they are and how they work. Thanks.

bluzman · Jun 8, 2011

Stew Mac Go Bar Clamping System.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Clamp ... ystem.html

Time-saving go-bar clamping has become a breakthrough technique for gluing guitar braces, soundboards, backs and more.

Strong flexible "go-bars" are placed under tension between the top of the go-bar deck and the wood being clamped. This eliminates the cumbersome multitude of clamps that slow down the gluing process, and results in more uniform clamping pressure.

We offer hardware and instructions to easily build your own setup, including custom-radiused convex dishes for maintaining accurate soundboard and back curvature.

fronobulax · Jun 9, 2011

And I confess I missed the following picture in the first post which makes things very clear. Thanks, though, because I am learning something.

bluzman · Jun 30, 2011

A few more weeks and I'll have her in my meat hooks!

twocorgis · Jun 30, 2011

Wow, that's some righteous looking wood there, bluzman!

Pursuant to Gibson slopes, I already posted this in another thread, but my local GC has a new Gibson J45 that's an absolutely incredible guitar, and easily the best acoustic in the store. That's not exactly faint praise, as there's a few very high dollar Martins and Taylors there as well. Still, for $2300+ it's not exactly chump change...

bluzman · Jun 30, 2011

Thanks for that link! I've played some really nice J45s and some not so nice.... that is why I had this built and it is in the basic price range of the one you linked to.
We came up with what we thought would be some tonal improvements with the bracing and wood selection (I am very impressed with the actual pieces he selected), type of bridge etc. He said he should have it set up this weekend but will play it a little bit and do some minor tweaks over the next few weeks. We're putting Waverly ButterBean Open Tuners, K&K Pure Mini Pup (nothing under the saddle) and a smaller pick guard.

After this I'm going to start seeking out a really nice used and played Jumbo Guild!

twocorgis · Jun 30, 2011

bluzman said:
Thanks for that link! I've played some really nice J45s and some not so nice.... that is why I had this built and it is in the basic price range of the one you linked to.

With all the appointments you're having, that's a pretty reasonable price for a handmade one-off. Interestingly, I've played a ton of Gibson J45s, J50s, and AJs, and haven't liked one of them until now. :roll:

bluzman said:
After this I'm going to start seeking out a really nice used and played Jumbo Guild!

If you have any money left (which you probably won't), Guitar Center has a used late Westerly JF55 (same as F50R) for the excellent price of $999. It looks like it could use a little cleaning up, but that's a fabulous deal on a really nice guitar.

bluzman · Jun 30, 2011

WOW! That is a nice price!
That is what I'll soon be looking for!
Thanks!

twocorgis · Jun 30, 2011

bluzman said:
WOW! That is a nice price!
That is what I'll soon be looking for!
Thanks!

You don't see F50R/JF55s for this price often; $1500+ is more the norm for these, so I would guess that this one won't last at that price. The last one I saw at a price like this (at my local GC) I bought immediately knowing another board member would probably want it, and it's living in Texas now. 8)

We're kinda like a breed rescue organization here. :lol:

bluzman · Aug 8, 2011

Lighter weight than it looks, it sounds great and feels great, beautomous... all in all a great guitar!

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