D55 Bridge Lifting -- Say it Ain't So, Joe

[Sleehrat]

I own a Corona built D55. The bridge is now lifting for the second time, having been reglued once by a local repair guy.

This time, I decided to seek the services of a better luthier. Called three guys in the metro NY area.

- One doesn't do Guild bridge work any longer. He said via email "I stopped doing bridge lifts on Guilds a few years ago.
I stopped making bridges a few years back and have run across several Guilds that needed the bridges replaced rather than reglued. They are virtually impossible to get and need to be fabricated."

- One said that he has never been able to reglue a Guild bridge and have the repair hold so he stopped working on them.

- Third one will look at the guitar next week.

Anyone here have a similar experience? I really do like the guitar and want this to work!

 

[jazzmang]

Was it reset or just re-glued last time?

Some luthiers just inject a little glue where its lifting and then clamp it down.

The proper (but more expensive) way is to have the bridge completely removed, then re-set.

I seem to remember some posts a while back saying that sometimes, when the guitar body was getting lacquered, the bridge area that was taped off was not big enough, so sometimes the bridges wouldn't stick properly where the nitro had already been sprayed.
What needs to be done in this case is to have the bridge completely removed, ensure that the bridge surface is clean of nitro (sanding where needed), and have it reglued with the proper adhesive.

Hope that helps. I've had to have this done twice.

 

[capnjuan]

... The proper (but more expensive) way is to have the bridge completely removed, then re-set.

What he said. CJ

 

[twocorgis]

I own a Corona built D55. The bridge is now lifting for the second time, having been reglued once by a local repair guy.

This time, I decided to seek the services of a better luthier. Called three guys in the metro NY area.

- One doesn't do Guild bridge work any longer. He said via email "I stopped doing bridge lifts on Guilds a few years ago.
I stopped making bridges a few years back and have run across several Guilds that needed the bridges replaced rather than reglued. They are virtually impossible to get and need to be fabricated."

- One said that he has never been able to reglue a Guild bridge and have the repair hold so he stopped working on them.

- Third one will look at the guitar next week.

Anyone here have a similar experience? I really do like the guitar and want this to work!

Sleehrat, welcome to LTG!

PM me, and I'll put you in touch with my guy. He's in Albertson on Long Island. I guarantee you he will do the job right. I've been through a couple of luthiers myself.

 

[adorshki]

Hi Sleehrat, Welcome aboard! What Jazzmang said has been referenced several different times here, so that tends to confirm the validity of the issue and diagnosis to me. What strikes me though is I don't remember seeing this being listed as one of the Corona problems, I only remember this being attributed to Westerly. What's the vintage of your D55? Also, since it's a Corona I'd be surprised if a new bridge isn't easily obtained if needed. There's plenty of resources here.
Was the first job done by a Guild authorized shop, and are you the original owner? If so, you may have warranty options, and may be interested in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17787
In any case, good luck!

 

[Sleehrat]

I've tried using the serial to date the guitar online to little avail.

Unfortunately for warranty, I bought the guitar used about 3 years ago.

 

[adorshki]

I've tried using the serial to date the guitar online to little avail.
Unfortunately for warranty, I bought the guitar used about 3 years ago.

My curiosity about the vintage was due to the fact that I think some unfinished parts/guitars from Westerly were completed in Corona, I might be wrong but I seem to remember seeing that in some old threads here.
We have a member, Hans Moust, who has written a book about Guild and is archiving serial number info as part of his business. He's usually happy to share what he knows with owners here. You can send him a private message, or post the number here, he visits frequently. The info from that period is known to be inaccurate/incomplete even on Guild's site.
Personally I just like to make new guys feel welcome, and again, good luck!

 

[killdeer43]

The bridge on my D25 was lifting.
My repair guy removed it, cleaned old, residual adhesive off the bridge and the top and reglued/reset the bridge. He did a great job and it's holding firm, so it was well worth $125 for the peace of mind. :wink:

Joe

 

[southernGuild]

My D25m had a slight lifting in the bridge after 30+ years, so like Joe, i decided to get it fully done , and to do it RIGHT. Had it completely removed, cleaned and reset and clamped down for a spell with hideglue. it looks like it never was off! and yes, at about the same price. Cash well spent. for Peace of mind!

 

[gilded]

The only thing I want to add is that the last couple of
bridge resets that I've had done include sanding the bottom
of the bridge flat. I didn't grill my luthier about why
he did that, but I suppose he thinks those particular
bridges may have been warped from the combination of
string pull tension and 'lifting up'.

 

[devellis]

A couple of reasons for sanding the bridge bottom. One is just to remove crud (glue, splinters, etc). The other, as you suggest, is to restore flatness. We've all seen tops that are a bit dipped in front of the bridge and a bellied behind it. That "s"-curve in the can get imprinted on the bridge, too. End-to-end curvature can also develop. So, it's not unusual to check the bottom of the removed bridge for curvature and to sand it flat if there's any there. If the curvature is too pronounced, sanding it out might leave the bridge a bit thinner than ideal. In that case, it's time for a new bridge. But often, there's just a high spot or two that can be brought down with no problem. If the curvature is bad, the bridge plate might also be warped. That's a bigger deal to replace.

 

[adorshki]

My D25m had a slight lifting in the bridge after 30+ years, so like Joe, i decided to get it fully done , and to do it RIGHT. Had it completely removed, cleaned and reset and clamped down for a spell with hideglue. it looks like it never was off! and yes, at about the same price. Cash well spent. for Peace of mind!

BOY, you gave him the "Short version", didn't you SG! :lol:
Sleehrat, if you want to see just how far we'll go here, see this:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15872&hilit=restoration&start=45

 

[Sleehrat]

Wow. I am just thrilled with all the responses here -- I am feeling much more optimistic. As many of you know, when you find that special guitar that just sounds and feels right, you don't want to lose it. I found this D55 in a Guitar Center the day I came in primed to buy a D28. I picked it up, A/Bed it for a while vs the Martin and it just kept winning the battle -- even though it was sporting a set of Extra Light strings! I had never even considered buying a Guild (didnt know that much about them) but -- quote Neil Young -- "here I am with this old guitar, doing what I do."

I'll definitely close the loop on the thread here by reporting on the progress.

Thanks for making me a smarter Guild owner, folks!

 

[killdeer43]

Woke up this morning and noticed your user name....it's 'tarheels' spelled backwards! Clever!
Can we then assume your location or are you just a UNC fan? :wink:

Joe

 

[chazmo]

This stuff happens when guitars get misshapen for various reasons. First of all, I'd take stock of the humidity control in your environment, sleehrat. It is possible that your beloved Guild is getting hurt by dry or wet air that is changing the shape of your soundboard over time. It may be good that you're running into this now if you are having humidity problems. Things get much worse than bridge lifts over time, trust me -- been there done that got the cracks to prove it.

I tend to agree with the others, though, that a quick fix was done in the past (squirt some glue and clamp) rather than a bridge re-seat. Taking the bridge off (with heat) and then sanding and re-gluing is the proper way to do this repair.

 

[baldgit]

The bridge on my Westerly (96') F-30 lifted slightly ....my luthier, Pat Diburro, said it was due to the lifting of the top underneath..... a slight 'V' shape if you will... so he took it off and shaped it a little to conform to the shape of the top...and glued it back down.......has been holding for 2 years now...price $125

 

[Sleehrat]

Woke up this morning and noticed your user name....it's 'tarheels' spelled backwards! Clever!
Can we then assume your location or are you just a UNC fan? :wink:

Joe

Say, it's so. Indeed, I am a UNC alum (still smarting from that Duke loss on Saturday nite) and native North Carolinian but living in New Jersey these days.

Just updated the location on my profile. As a newbie here, still finding my way around.

 

[killdeer43]

Say, it's so. Indeed, I am a UNC alum (still smarting from that Duke loss on Saturday nite)

Great basketball in the ACC.
BTW, my sister went to graduate school in Chapel Hill in the mid-60s and my nephew was born in the hospital there in '65.
Connections!

Enjoy your time here. Good bunch of folks, but keep in mind that we're all Guilded! :wink:

Joe