M65 serial number year?
- Thread starter earcheer
- Start date
hansmoust
Enlightened Member
Hello earcheer,
Welcome! You need no code for that; just the correct serial number chart. That particular Guild M-65 was completed during the year 1965.
Sincerely,
Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
Welcome! You need no code for that; just the correct serial number chart. That particular Guild M-65 was completed during the year 1965.
Sincerely,
Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
Is it yours? Love to see some pics! And welcome to LTG!
Nice M65 with a great combination of pickup version and mahogany top!
Nice!
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Cleaned up the title and first post.
BradHK
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I have a 1965 M65 and I love that that year as it has the Guild inlay in the headstock rather than a screen print like some years (I wish it had also had a chesterfield like my 1967 M65) and it has the bound fretboard. I also LOVE that pickup in a M65! congrats!
matsickma
Senior Member
I really like M65's but the tuners are the worst! I can't believe Guild put such crummy tuners on this guitar. I get it was a student grade guitar but the difference of a couple $ for better tuners really reduced this guitars potential!
and the floating bridge adds to the problem to stay in tune. has any sort of modification been done on this that you know of ?
matsickma
Senior Member
I had and have a number of M65's. The best playing of the bunch had Grover tuners installed and a posted adjustomatic along with removing the harp and putting a hard stop. It also feels like blocks of wood were installed under the bridge. I didn't make the mod but bought it that way and it has a pair of Gibson HB pickups. There are others with additional mods like the one with the Franz neck pup and added bridge HB and varitone multipole tone knob. Main item is the changed tuners.
I just acquired a few sets of Grovers with the intention of replacing the tuners on more stock M65's. Another mod was replacing the little floating feet with a Bigsby bridge base and remove the height adjustment wheels to lower the action.
I just acquired a few sets of Grovers with the intention of replacing the tuners on more stock M65's. Another mod was replacing the little floating feet with a Bigsby bridge base and remove the height adjustment wheels to lower the action.
I was curious about your bridge mod so I looked at the wood bridge with the adjuster wheels and found a couple of washers that were about the same thickness as the wheels. The washers lay flush over the threaded posts instead of the wheels and with the wood bridge on the washers this lowered the strings a bit. About the tailpiece harp, did you notice that with the angled string mount rail on the harp, that the G,B, E strings are pulled downward in each slot and are not centered causing the E string to be closer to the edge of the neck.
matsickma
Senior Member
There is a tendency for guitars with floating bridges to skew the strings towards the lowE side. I don't think that is unique to Guild. That may explain why some people install very fine sandpaper dabs under the bridge base. That increased friction between the bridge base and polished top surface of the guitar is improved and allows you to position the bridge to better center the strings.
On one NS CE100 that I acquired from a guy in Nashville ...he must have becomes annoyed with the issue you mentioned and drilled two holes through the bridge base and screwed the bridge into place. I'm actually ok with his mod but would have preferred a little more effort to center the screws so the mod looked more professional. LOL!
On one NS CE100 that I acquired from a guy in Nashville ...he must have becomes annoyed with the issue you mentioned and drilled two holes through the bridge base and screwed the bridge into place. I'm actually ok with his mod but would have preferred a little more effort to center the screws so the mod looked more professional. LOL!
so I got a metal bridge with the metal saddles that fits onto the original threaded posts that held the wooden bridge. It is a perfect height with much lower action due to a very straight neck with no buzzes. I put a small piece of sheet silicone under the posts that grip the posts to the body and I'm surprised it works so well.
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matsickma
Senior Member
That's the ticket! Glad to know your technique! That sounds like the best modification I've seen yet.
I'm curious...where did you get thin "sheet" silicone rubber?
As a subtle point the metal bridge will brighten the guitar tone. I have taken rosewood bridges used a bench grinder/sander to reduce the height and step around the post to fit a wood bridge under the strings. Just a thought if wanted to soften the tone a bit.
I'm curious...where did you get thin "sheet" silicone rubber?
As a subtle point the metal bridge will brighten the guitar tone. I have taken rosewood bridges used a bench grinder/sander to reduce the height and step around the post to fit a wood bridge under the strings. Just a thought if wanted to soften the tone a bit.
the silicone "sheet" is actually a card of silicone bumpers for cabinet doors etc. that is the flat thin space between the bumpers which I cut to the right size to place under the threaded post feet. But I did find a silicone sheeting in various thicknesses from ebay that I ordered and may be a more exact thinness less than 1 mm.
anyway, the 1 mm thin silicone sheet that this metal saddles bridge sits on is very adhering to the bridge base feet pressure so it won't move which allows to intonate precisely for the first time! The action is now very low also. The metal bridge transfers the resonance more than the wood bridge so every note on this little guitar rings with amazing harmonic overtones that I never heard before!
hi again anybody, I have an electrical problem with this 1965 M-65. Seems like the tone control has no effect on the sound. I know it used to work but not doing anything now. Any suggestions on a possible fix? clean the pot? replacement part? thanks for any experienced opinion.