Westerly-era acoustics

[deejayen]

Is there generally much difference in guitar and build quality with different years of manufacture at Westerly. I'm thinking about buying a 1991 guitar, but there's also a similar model from 1973 available.

Seeing as the guitars have survived these past 30 or 50 years, I suppose there aren't too many problems with them. However, perhaps there are things to be aware of.

Also, were the basic models the same as the fancier version other than without the inlays etc, or were they built differently, and\or with lower grade woods etc? For example D-50 vs D-60 or JF-30 vs JF65.

Are there any reasons to avoid these 1970's and 1990's guitars, and to splash out on a brand-new equivalent, such as an F-55M instead?

 

[chazmo]

There is only reason to cherish these guitars; none to avoid.

 

[davenumber2]

Many 20+ year old guitars either need or are on the verge of needing a neck reset which can be expensive. Keep an eye out for high action and low saddles.

 

[deejayen]

Thanks very much.

I may end up going for the early 1990's guitar. It's within traveling distance, and much more reasonably priced than the 1970's one, although the older guitar is the blingier version.

The condition of the 1990's guitar isn't great, but that's mainly due to multiple small dings on the top, corrosion on what were gold-plated tuners, and a few scuffs on what may be a non-original case.

The fundamentals are sound - saddle height, action, neck angle, bracing etc all seem good. There are fairly deep grooves in the first few frets (indicating it's been played at some point in the past 30 years!), but no rattles. A luthier has given me a reasonable quote for a partial refret (he suggested replacing the first 12 frets rather than just the obviously worn ones).

 

[Westerly Wood]

I have a 70s and a 90s Guild acoustic. Different models, but they are both great guitars. I prefer the 90s but only cause it's a smaller body size. I played the 70s one exclusively for years while I was able.

 

[Cougar]

The fundamentals are sound - saddle height, action, neck angle, bracing etc all seem good. ....

That's the main thing. The quality through the years and the different factories and owners is remarkably consistent.

Also, were the basic models the same as the fancier version other than without the inlays etc, or were they built differently, and\or with lower grade woods etc? For example D-50 vs D-60 or JF-30 vs JF65.

Not really built differently, but supposedly the JF30, for example, has a AA top while the fancier versions have AAA. I'm skeptical that this is always the case since the top on my JF30-12
is super silky and gorgeous and I swear it's AAA, but maybe I'm just biased.

Also, I got a good deal on a 2007 F412... It was a good deal because the saddle was really low. I had the bridge pins ramped, but it still came in second to the JF30-12. I eventually sold the F412. I will never sell this JF30-12.

 

[Norrissey]

Is it possible for you to try out both guitars and select the one you prefer? That seems like the best option.
If not, my recommendation would be to get the '73 all other issues (neck angle and straightness, saddle height, fret condition) being equal.
I have owned several Guild '90s acoustics (two DV52s, JF30, D30, F30), all of them were lovely to play, really nice sounding guitars BUT all of them had bellying (more than they should have had for their age in my opinion) and most of them also had sound hole cracks. Just an observation based on my personal experience but I think Guild was either not using the best spruce for their tops in the '90s or they were cutting them too thin. The '70s Guilds I own and have owned are/were more solidly built. I recommend the lighter build early Westerly acoustics from '68-'72 in particular.

 

[deejayen]

Thanks for the info.

That's a lovely looking guitar, Cougar! I was able to play a new F512 for a few minutes on Saturday, and although I've never been a 12-string player, it was wonderful, and seemed to add harmonies to any harmonies I played!

I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to try the 1973 guitar, Norrissey, as it's too far away. However, if I really decided to go for it, then I could buy it mail order, and would have the option of returning it, but that would be fairly expensive to do with insurance, not to mention being a bit of a hassle.

The asking price of the 1973 guitar is more than double the price of the 1990's one. I haven't contacted the dealer about the older guitar, but it's supposed to have recently been set up and is playing well, but it also has some age & play wear, along with some lacquer cracking (I don't think the 1990's one has lacquer cracks, but I'm not sure if that's a good or bad sign!)

 

[Wilmywood]

Is it possible for you to try out both guitars and select the one you prefer? That seems like the best option.
If not, my recommendation would be to get the '73 all other issues (neck angle and straightness, saddle height, fret condition) being equal.
I have owned several Guild '90s acoustics (two DV52s, JF30, D30, F30), all of them were lovely to play, really nice sounding guitars BUT all of them had bellying (more than they should have had for their age in my opinion) and most of them also had sound hole cracks. Just an observation based on my personal experience but I think Guild was either not using the best spruce for their tops in the '90s or they were cutting them too thin. The '70s Guilds I own and have owned are/were more solidly build. I recommend the lighter build early Westerly acoustics from '68-'72 in particular.

I agree. My '72 G37 has zero 'bellying' and also 'knock on wood' shows no signs of needing a neck reset. It is also MUCH lighter then the '78 G37 and '95 DV-62 I had

 

[deejayen]

Thanks again. From what you've said, the 1973 guitar is likely to be heavier than one made in 1972. That might not necessarily be a bad thing, but did Guild change much on the guitars around that time?

A closer look at the 1973 guitar shows some quite a few marks on it, including what looks like to be flaking on the edge of the black pickguard (showing white underneath). I think I'd really want to see and play that guitar before buying it, especially as it's quite expensive - for example, I could buy a brand new F-40 Traditional for less money, or a brand new F-512 (rosewood) for 10% more.

 

[Norrissey]

From what you've said, the 1973 guitar is likely to be heavier than one made in 1972. That might not necessarily be a bad thing, but did Guild change much on the guitars around that time?

In '73 most Guild acoustic models became significantly heavier. My understanding is that is because the factory decided to cut the different wood parts of the guitars thicker for warranty reasons - improved durability. Some models also changed in appearance/shape at about that time - for example the body shape of the F30 model was changed quite dramatically. With the dreads, the change was more subtle, they just became heavier and beefed up a little - thicker necks. The post '72 guitars still sound great. No issue there : )
Interestingly, I find my lighter build '68-'72 Westerly acoustics very well built even though they are lighter. Really nice woods and construction. But obviously, back in the day, Guild felt the need to go heavier.

I already suggested it but I would strongly recommend you try out the guitars in person if you can. That's the best way to ensure you get the right guitar for you.

 

[deejayen]

Thanks, Norrissey- that's very helpful.

Yes, I'd really want to see and try them, which probably rules out the 1973 guitar. It's a pity that limits my choice to a single guitar!

I suppose I could wait to see if anything else turns up, but I suspect there aren't too many around in my neck of the UK. Even the Guild dealer I visited at the weekend (a 400 mile round trip) only had one Guild in stock, and that was the F-512.

 

[Westerly Wood]

Oh, all day long, I would choose a '73 over a '90s guild acoustic. But the 90s are great too!

 

[Norrissey]

By the way, the acoustics Guild are currently making in Oxnard, California and also the ones they made before that during their time in New Hartford Connecticut, are excellent guitars. No build quality issues that I'm aware of and they sound great.

 

[Cougar]

for example, I could buy a brand new F-40 Traditional for less money, or a brand new F-512 (rosewood) for 10% more.

Jeez, I don't know, but that '73 sounds way over priced. There wouldn't be any question in my mind about passing that one up! These are on my watch list (just for fun, y'know. )

Guild USA JF-30-12 | Reverb

Reverb is a marketplace bringing together a wide-spanning community to buy, sell, and discuss all things music gear.

reverb.com

Actually, it's an ebony fretboard!

Guild USA F-412 | Reverb

Reverb is a marketplace bringing together a wide-spanning community to buy, sell, and discuss all things music gear.

reverb.com

1990 Guild USA F-30 - Flame Maple Arched Back & Sides - Original Hardcase | Reverb

For your consideration is this 1990 Guild USA F-30 acoustic with flame maple back, sides, & neck. Overall it's in very good condition with no cracking or major bellying at all. This is a great sounding acoustic and has that killer Guild tone. Playability is excellent with low action & lit...

reverb.com

Oh, you're in the UK? Well... dang. Yeah, I've done a lot of waiting. It was actually years before I got my first choice, which was the F512. Best of luck!

 

[Br1ck]

There is no reason to discount a guitar built in the heavier post 72 era, but side by side you might like the earlier guitar, or not as the case may be. As far a what you buy, just make sure you like it. Living in the UK will likely greatly diminish your choice. Heck, finding two Guilds in the same shop in the SF Bay Area is rare. If a guitar is reasonably priced in your market, buy it if you like it. Don't be put off if it is a D 35 instead of a D 40, especially the 72 and earlier variety.

Plenty of people like their Corona and Tacoma guitars too.Good luck on the quest.

 

[portsider]

My experience with the basic vs high end models is that they are all excellent instruments. I've owned several 70s and 90s Westerly and they were all very nice. Some were better than others, but it didn't seem tone based on the expense , more just individual guitar to individual guitar.