early 70's S-100 bridges

Los Angeles

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Very well done, several! Perfect way to fix the issue without permanently altering your vintage guitar!
 

Qvart

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Yep, the best solutions I've seen posted here over the years involve basically shimming the posts so there isn't a gap around them. Luckily, the bridge on my '73 and my previously-owned '74 stayed in place just fine. I mean, I can make the bridge tilt, but it stays put nicely with string tension.

BTW, I'm pretty sure you can't swap out an early '70's bridge for a post-mid-'75 bridge. The differences go beyond threaded vs non-threaded posts. And LA is right: as much as some of us love the early '70's design with the tailpiece further back and the neck set inline with the body, the post-mid-'75 design was an improvement (steeper neck angle, closer tailpiece, more string break over the bridge), but it smacks very much of G*bson.

Here's a pictorial
 
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Los Angeles

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... but it smacks very much of G*bson.

oh-no-you-didnt-12.jpg
 

TVeye

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Bumping this thread because I believe I found a better solution than using teflon or some kind of shim.

I tried teflon(PTFE) tape, found it awkward, ugly and and tape kept unwinding every time I raised or lower the bridge. I didn't want stringly white ptfe tape visible either.

So I had some 3.2mm heat shrink, I widened the end a bit with some players and slipped it over the thread, heated it up and the fit is perfect and it doesn't come off when you insert it in and out of the cup. Looks neat too.


Pardon my ignorance but, doesn't this solution kill any metal to metal contact and essentially make this a rubber mounted bridge with no energy transference to the body?
 
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