Valuing a 1965 Guild M-20

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Hey guys -

I wanted to tap your knowledge on selling an M-20. I believe it is a 1965 from Hoboken (serial AH-356). It's condition is excellent. A few very SMALL dings / scratches in the body, a little bit of pick scratch on the plastic section by the strings. Neck, head and fretboard are pristine. Everything is original. It was purchased new by my mother in the 60's.

How do I price it and where do i sell it to get top $$ fair price?

I appreciate any advice you gurus have!!

Thanks,

Gabriel
 

AcornHouse

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When valuing any guitar, the best place to start looking is the Sold listings on eBay and Reverb. People may ask the moon, but what they actually sold for is where the market really is. For an excellent condition '65 M-20, I would estimate a range of $1500-1800. A lot will depend on whether you're looking for a quick sale, or are willing to wait for the right deal.
Pictures will help, A LOT!

As far as where to sell, there are plenty of outlets: Craigslist and the Facebook marketplace will have no fees, but your market is more limited. Reverb and eBay will get you a larger market, but have seller fees. (I far prefer Reverb; lower fees, and a non-auction format.) There are the special interest forums like this one and the Acoustic Guitar Forum. There are auction houses like Heritage Auctions, who periodically run special musical instrument auctions. But, those are Auctions, and you can't control the final price.
Finally, if you need a quick sale, there are music stores like Norman's, Gruhn's, and Guitar Center. Those will give you the worst price, especially GC, since they are buying to resell.
 

adorshki

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Hi Ganesha:
Not knowing how familiar you are with guitars, I'd also suggest getting it assessed by a luthier.
What appears to be "pristine" to a layman may actually have age-related structural flaws.
I'm thinking of what we call "Neck angle".
As a guitar ages the constant tension of the strings tends to pull the neck's headstock towards the bridge.
This has the effect of making the strings rise higher above the fretboard which affects playability and intonation.
It's fixable but a bit costly.
So the "excellent condition" Acornhouse mentions assumes the neck angle is also virtually "as originally built".
 

Neal

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And one factor that impacts neck angle (among many) is whether the guitar was stored for long periods of time at full string tension.

One dead give-away that the neck angle has become too shallow is that the saddle (the white part sticking out of the bridge over which the strings pass) is very short (less than 1/8").
 

adorshki

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One dead give-away that the neck angle has become too shallow is that the saddle (the white part sticking out of the bridge over which the strings pass) is very short (less than 1/8").

With respect, Neal, that's only a sign that somebody may have shaved the saddle.
It could be to compensate for a bad neck angle or it could just be one of those people who wanted their acoustic guitar to have a really low action got the saddle shaved.
A guitar with a bad neck angle could still have a plenty high saddle if it was simply never touched, but then the string height at 12th fret would be excessively high like significantly higher than an 1/8".
OP says it was his mother's since new, and condition is very very good so kind of suspect it wasn't "worked over". Probably has original saddle height so that wouldn't be a good indicator of neck angle.
Best test is the neck alignment check, after confirming adequate combined bridge and saddle height of roughly 1/2", and properly adjusted relief.
Ganesha, you should also be aware your first few replies as a new member are checked by moderators before your posts start to appear in real time.
I suspect you'll see any replies you've tried to post will pop up over the weekend and then no more delays.
Again, assuming you may not know this stuff, here's a link to an explanation of what we're talking about, from a very highly respected luthier:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/NeckAngle/neckangle.html
 

jedzep

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...and, Ebay has lowered it's seller fee to match Reverb on guitars only. Someone's watching, I guess. Also, no auction format on the latter. There will be rosewood, so you won't be able to sell internationally.

All my cohorts have wise advice above, otherwise.
 
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AcornHouse

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...There will be rosewood, so you won't be able to sell internationally.

All my cohorts have wise advice above, otherwise.
Not just rosewood, but Brazilian rosewood! In the fingerboard and bridge.
 

walrus

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8 posts, and no mention of Nick Drake? Hmmm...

walrus
 

adorshki

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Not just rosewood, but Brazilian rosewood! In the fingerboard and bridge.

Yep good call. Commercial export/import of Brazilian strictly prohibited without release from country of origin.
I would hazard getting that from the Brazilian government isn't likely to happen in this case.
 

swiveltung

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I bought a clean 1971 F20 (cousin to the M20) this year with original hard case for $690. There are bargains around. Nice little guitar.
 

AcornHouse

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I bought a clean 1971 F20 (cousin to the M20) this year with original hard case for $690. There are bargains around. Nice little guitar.
Because of the Nick Drake (see what you started Walrus!) association, M20s tend to go for more than their cousin. (Also, the OP is looking to sell, not buy.) When I got my F-20, I paid $550, and then put a couple of hundred more into it for repairs. My M-20 was $1200, and then put a couple of hundred more into it for repairs. And both are early 60s guitars, which also go for more than 70s ones.
 

swiveltung

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Because of the Nick Drake (see what you started Walrus!) association, M20s tend to go for more than their cousin. (Also, the OP is looking to sell, not buy.) When I got my F-20, I paid $550, and then put a couple of hundred more into it for repairs. My M-20 was $1200, and then put a couple of hundred more into it for repairs. And both are early 60s guitars, which also go for more than 70s ones.

Yeah, there was a 60's one available at the same time at about the same price, but I wanted the long scale version.... and really like the Westerly built guitars.... as well as preferring the spruce top. It seems strange to me that the M are worth more, there seem to be many more available out there... just my pref I guess. As you said "nick drake"...
 
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jedzep

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I had a '59 and a '62 a while back. Sweet tone out of this world but I couldn't manage the narrow string spacing. Gotta' have inch and 11/16" or wider, otherwise no deal.

You long skinny fingered mutha's have it good.

God bless David Bromberg.
 
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