Problem with Starfire IV's bridge

DesmondWafers

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Hello everyone, first time poster here and recent convert to Guild guitars. I got a starfire IV from the Mid 90's today and it is an amazing guitar in every respect but one: The bridge. I'm not a big fan of the TOM bridge (I would have preferred a floating one honestly) because it never seems to intonate right for me. Once again, the TOM has let me down.

The high E saddle is cranked as far as it can towards the neck and it's still flat. All of the saddles are pretty far up, actually, but they all have room to move. The intonation is just about spot on, but I really would prefer it to be perfect, or at least have some room to work with. So I ask those of you who have RI starfires IV's: What bridge are you using? Mine has a gotoh japan 103 (I think). I have no idea if it's the stock bridge. Any other tips on fixing this scenario would also be appreciated!

Here's a picture of the guitar in question:

tW5OYZU.jpg
 

GAD

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My guess is that's a '97-98 and I agree that it's odd. What strings?

First thing I do in a situation like this is change strings as I've had more than one dead set.
 

kakerlak

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It could just be that your guitar worked out a little different than whatever "norm" the bridge location was designed around, in which case, you could see about finding a replacement bridge w/ longer travel which will fit the existing studs.

GAD's advise (and Walter's question) about strings is reasonable.

You might also try capoing it at the 1st fret and checking intonation b/w harmonic and fretted note at the 13th fret, so as to remove the nut from the scale length/intonation equation.

[EDIT] You know, after looking at your photo again, it looks like that bridge is angled awfully straight/perpendicular to the strings... If the treble side post was closer to the nut, the whole thing would line up pretty well. I wonder if somehow the bridge placement actually did get done wonky on this one?
 
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CosmicArkie

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I'd just slot out the treble post and put in a set screw from the rear to lock the bridge in the forward position, if that makes any sense.

Then adjust the saddles normally.
 

GAD

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Here's my similar era SF4 and it intonates perfectly.

Guild-1998-Starfire4-Top21.jpg
 

Quantum Strummer

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I'd also vote for trying another set of strings, just to rule out having a wonky set on there now.

The thing with bridges I've run across more than any other is not having enough backwards adjustment room. Your bridge doesn't look wrongly placed for a '90s SF (at least those I've played…they tend to be more perpendicular to the strings rather than angled) so if another set of strings doesn't improve matters I'd have a good look at the nut.

-Dave-
 

DesmondWafers

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After some research and a PM from a member, I've discovered it's a '97. The strings are ernie ball 10-46's, a fresh set in fact.

Here's a (Crappy) picture of the bridge:

15zdDDA.jpg


I don't think it would be the strings as all of the saddles are pretty far forward. I also tried the capo trick and it's still flat.

Thanks everyone for the help so far, though. Does anyone know of a bridge that would fit with a larger intonation travel range? The bridge is a gotoh 103b.
 

Quantum Strummer

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I'd change the strings in any case. If the current set has an off high E string you should get a different result intonation-wise with a different (and presumably normal) string.

-Dave-
 

GAD

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Same strings I use. Seriously, just put on a new set and see if it helps. I know that seems counterintuitive but I've seen bad sets of strings.
 

DesmondWafers

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I actually threw on a set of 12's yesterday in hopes that it would help because of the compensation. No luck, unfortunately.
 

hansmoust

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Hello everyone, first time poster here and recent convert to Guild guitars. I got a starfire IV from the Mid 90's today and it is an amazing guitar in every respect but one: The bridge. The high E saddle is cranked as far as it can towards the neck and it's still flat. All of the saddles are pretty far up, actually, but they all have room to move. The intonation is just about spot on, but I really would prefer it to be perfect, or at least have some room to work with. So I ask those of you who have RI starfires IV's: What bridge are you using? Mine has a gotoh japan 103 (I think). I have no idea if it's the stock bridge. Any other tips on fixing this scenario would also be appreciated!

Here's a picture of the guitar in question:

tW5OYZU.jpg

Hello DesmondWafers,

Welcome! During 1997 a small group of Starfire IVs left the factory with an improperly located bridge, which was caused by the use of a faulty jig. I believe this is one of those guitars. At the time Guild recognized the problem (albeit a little late) and all instruments that were affected could be returned. Eventually a bridge was found that solved the problem and I've actually seen a couple of guitars with that bridge.
I'm not sure if that bridge is still available, but if I remember correctly it was also a Gotoh-made unit.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
 

DesmondWafers

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Hello DesmondWafers,

Welcome! During 1997 a small group of Starfire IVs left the factory with an improperly located bridge, which was caused by the use of a faulty jig. I believe this is one of those guitars. At the time Guild recognized the problem (albeit a little late) and all instruments that were affected could be returned. Eventually a bridge was found that solved the problem and I've actually seen a couple of guitars with that bridge.
I'm not sure if that bridge is still available, but if I remember correctly it was also a Gotoh-made unit.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl

Wow, I'm glad I know it's the bridge for sure now...unfortunately that's the worst possible scenario. If you already know ALL of that, but don't know the bridge, I'm unsure that anyone here will know that bridge replacement (Any help would be appreciated!). I'll try to find some more info online. Thank you for the help!
 

DesmondWafers

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In this situation, what would you guys do regarding returns? I bought it on ebay and the seller has it listed as no returns, but wouldn't this be enough to get my money back, you think?
 

GAD

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Hello DesmondWafers,

Welcome! During 1997 a small group of Starfire IVs left the factory with an improperly located bridge, which was caused by the use of a faulty jig. I believe this is one of those guitars. At the time Guild recognized the problem (albeit a little late) and all instruments that were affected could be returned. Eventually a bridge was found that solved the problem and I've actually seen a couple of guitars with that bridge.
I'm not sure if that bridge is still available, but if I remember correctly it was also a Gotoh-made unit.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl


That is some awesome info right there.
 

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The bridge that I posted the link to seems to be wider than a normal tunematic. Is that the one?
 

Walter Broes

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Damn, that sucks. Would be cool if you could return it. Otherwise, case being that the guitar has a center block...plug and re-drill?
 
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DesmondWafers

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I contacted the seller, it's being returned. Still going to try another guild, just unlucky that my first was one of the apparently few lemons.
 

kakerlak

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Hello DesmondWafers,

Welcome! During 1997 a small group of Starfire IVs left the factory with an improperly located bridge, which was caused by the use of a faulty jig. I believe this is one of those guitars. At the time Guild recognized the problem (albeit a little late) and all instruments that were affected could be returned. Eventually a bridge was found that solved the problem and I've actually seen a couple of guitars with that bridge.
I'm not sure if that bridge is still available, but if I remember correctly it was also a Gotoh-made unit.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl

Was Guild not setting the intonation on its guitars before shipment? Seems like these should never have left the factory... I mean, it's a mistake that reveals itself in the course of what I'd expect to be part of final setup and inspection.
 
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