Miscellaneous... because we're waiting for a guitar to be delivered....

AcornHouse

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I slept well. Now having some breakfast. Gotta figure out how to do what Chris said!! I'm sure there's a video somewhere, right?
Basically, after you get the foam out, you need to realign the bridge so that the two e strings are in tune at the 12th fret. It should be about the same spot that it is now. After tuning the open strings, check the tuning at the 12th fret. if it is now sharp, the bridge will need to move towards the tailpiece; if its too flat, closer to the neck. It will be a balancing act to get both string in tune, every time you move one side of the bridge, the other will shift a little. Keep going until they are both in tune.
It will help if the other 4 strings are a little slack, so that only the e strings are in tension holding the bridge down. After the e strings are correct, tune the other 4 strings as normal; don't try to tune their 12th frets.
 

Neal

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Hey, Tom.

Most new archtops ship with small pieces of foam under the feet of the bridge to protect the top. You have to remove them to get good tone.

Slacken the strings, take off the floating bridge, remove the foam pads, reinstall the bridge, and using a tuner, adjust the bridge on both treble and bass sides so that the pitch at the 12th fret are in tune with the open notes.

If 12th fret pitch is sharp, push the bridge toward the tailpiece. If flat, push it toward the neck. Make sure all six strings are intonated correctly.
 
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AcornHouse

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Also, as you are adjusting the bridge, make sure to keep the base flat against the top, so that the bridge stays perpendicular to the top.
 

richardp69

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See, all this is why I just prefer acoustics. (of course, also, because I can't play electric worth a damn, even worse than acoustic if that is even possible)

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

AcornHouse

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See, all this is why I just prefer acoustics. (of course, also, because I can't play electric worth a damn, even worse than acoustic if that is even possible)

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You generally only have to do this once. When changing strings, always do one at a time, so the bridge doesn't shift.
 

JohnW63

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On my new Guild NS X-175, I just loosened the strings JUUUSSSST enough to wiggle the foam out. I put blue painters tape all around the bridge, to make sure I could put it back, exactly, if it moved.
 

davismanLV

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Wow!!! Great info and thanks for all the help guys!! Of course, I'd expect nothing less from the AMAZING members of LTG!! I'll check out the videos and get the guitar up on the workstation. I'll let you all know how it turns out, although I'm sure you can guess. This is just all NEW stuff to me. I'm kinda like Richard, but it isn't my guitar so, I'll just hush up and learn??? LOL!! :encouragement::encouragement:
 

bobouz

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Along similar lines is the NS reissue Guild A-150..... 17" acoustic arch-top with a solid spruce X-braced top, and floating single-coil D'Armond pickup. Only instrument I know of on the market with this combo of features.

The D'Angelico top is laminated spruce, with vertical tone bars, and a mini-humbucker. No right or wrong here - just different.

But the best thing about the A-150, is of course that it's a Guild!
 

davismanLV

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Here's a shot of the back!

F35o6e.jpg
 

jp

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That's a real beauty, Tom! Congrats on your blue guitar acquisition! It's been a long time coming.
 

davismanLV

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I know, right? We're both running on red wine, Modelo Especial, and Fernet...... and maple, and myrtlewood. Both. I meant, all five!!
 
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