Trying out a t100

DesmondWafers

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After a bit of a mess with a westerly starfire IV, I've decided to try out a '65 t100 tomorrow. It looks to be in really good condition, but the one thing I'm worried about is the neck angle. I know some of the basic ways to check the angle, but was just wondering whether anyone had any tips for things to look for. Here's a picture of the bridge from the listing:

s-l1600.jpg


It might just be me, but it looks as though the bridge has been shaved down quite a bit. Anyway, any help is appreciated! You guys were so helpful with my starfire I figured I might as well just ask. Hoping for a happy NGD tomorrow.
 

GAD

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Really need a better picture of the bridge that's in focus. You could be right. It could also be a trick of the light. I'm not familiar with that model, but that might not even be the original bridge.
 

hansmoust

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I've decided to try out a '65 t100 tomorrow. It looks to be in really good condition, but the one thing I'm worried about is the neck angle. I know some of the basic ways to check the angle, but was just wondering whether anyone had any tips for things to look for. Here's a picture of the bridge from the listing:

s-l1600.jpg


It might just be me, but it looks as though the bridge has been shaved down quite a bit.

Hello Desmond,

That looks like a really thin bridge base, but it may have been thinned to get it under the strings, while maintaining a reasonable low action, together with the Gibson tune-o-matic style bridge. Since the post-spacing of the tune-o-matic bridge is not the same as an original Guild bridge, the bridge base is probably not the original one either.

Anyway, it looks to me that the neck angle is OK if you are going to keep the harp tailpiece. It may not be steep enough if you're looking to install a Bigsby-style vibrato.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
 

DesmondWafers

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I should have clarified straight away that the bridge is non-original. While it does look like the bridge base was sanded down, my suspicion was that the TOM was higher than the standard guild bridge and would require leveling. The pictures kind of suck, but it does look like the action is low, which I guess is the main concern anyway.

Thank you hans for the info. I would like to keep it original, so I'm hoping that I'll be all good. If anything, I'd love to put a replacement wooden guild spec bridge on there. Regardless, I'll be seeing it in person in 8> hours so fingers crossed.
 
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walrus

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Good luck! Those are great guitars! Nice and light!

walrus
 

DesmondWafers

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I went for it. The guitar is in such nice condition, very little fret wear. Here's a picture of the bridge situation

xYWi1TX.jpg


It's fully flush with the guitar, which is weird.

Here's a pic of the neck angle.

1Nmp0Cz.jpg


Not the best picture, but I think should get the point across. When I got it from the guy, the first thing I was worried about checking was the action being high and having no room for downward adjustment. Both sides were at or around 1mm action, so I have plenty of room considering I usually play with the treble at a little under 2 and the bass a little over 2. But at this point, as far as I can tell everything is all good! This pickup sounds amazing through my vibro champ and super reverb, very verstaile for 1 pickup.
 

walrus

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Congratulations! Love the blonde finish on this model!

walrus
 

DesmondWafers

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Thanks! This is my first real guild and definitely not my last.

I brought it to my luthier and he said "The neck angle is good enough that if you use 10's or 11's you probably won't need a reset in your lifetime". This guy knows more about guitars than any other luthier I've met, so I'm pretty damn happy with this purchase.
 

jedzep

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Except for ease of fretting I would think the height of a shaved adjustable floating bridge has little effect on an archtop electric tone given a comparison to acoustic sound being dependent on such things as the break angle from pin hole to saddle, top bracing and the sound transmission capabilities of acoustic top tonewoods.

Something tells me I'm wrong again.

I did love my '59 T100 though.
 
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Quantum Strummer

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Anyone with a Vibro Champ is immediately on my good side. :) I see a Vox too, another thumbs-up.

Looks like you have enough break angle over the bridge towards the trapeze for good acoustic tone, which can't help but be good for the electric tone too.

I have my own peculiar way of setting bridge height: I measure the gaps between the last fret and the open strings. I aim for 4/32" at the bass end, rolling down to 3/32" at the high E. Then I tweak the bridge (or individual saddles with some guitars) as necessary for best feel and lack of buzzing. Given that I like very little neck relief, this does the job with pretty much all electric guitars regardless of neck/body joint design or scale length.

-Dave-
 
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