Bought the JF65

Stuball48

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Dave:
In the string changing lesson I remember him saying he likes to snip them as close as he can to that particular tuner and he tuned it a step down. My "guess" is when tuning to standard tuning he was allowing for a little string slippage since this was my first string change, ever. I just finished playing it for about an hour and then tuned it to standard tuning and no string slippage so I made an "executive decision" play it one more time tonight for another hour and cut the excess string leaving about 1/8" if no slippage of strings after second hour of play.
 

adorshki

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Dave:
In the string changing lesson I remember him saying he likes to snip them as close as he can to that particular tuner and he tuned it a step down. My "guess" is when tuning to standard tuning he was allowing for a little string slippage since this was my first string change, ever. I just finished playing it for about an hour and then tuned it to standard tuning and no string slippage so I made an "executive decision" play it one more time tonight for another hour and cut the excess string leaving about 1/8" if no slippage of strings after second hour of play.

Interesting.
I actually wind 'em so that they're only held by friction of multiple windings (2-1/2 to 3 up to 5 complete winds from low E to high E), and only a kink (not a locking loop) at the side of the post-hole where the winding is going to start.
It's a little time-consuming and tricky, but no slippage.
The tricky part is leaving enough loose string to get the right number of windings around the post, but I believe it offers the optimum in tuning precision.
It takes me about an hour.
It's one reason I absolutely hate changing strings, and why I don't experiment that much anymore.
I also curl the loose ends into cute little coils.
I think the little stubs coming out of the post holes are ugly.
You might have figured out by now I'm one of those guys who takes his OCD seriously.
 

Stuball48

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Al:
The JF65 loves your recommended ej16s. They sound soooooo much better than what was on it.
Nothing wrong with being serious about your passion. "I prefer constructive criticism over treacherous praise." Somebody famous said that and I agree.
 

txbumper57

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Personally, I like the method used by Taylor in their string-changing video. But I gotta know... Why leave the strings untrimmed for a couple days?

So you can scratch the heck up out of your headstock, LOL, Just Kidding.

Stu, I am sure everyone has their own way to change strings and as long as you get the end result of the guitar staying in tune without damaging it in a any way before or after the string change then I consider it a success.

I used to lock the string ends in between winds on my guitars when doing a string change as this allowed for the quickest return to tune with the minimal amount of slippage. In other words if I broke a string on stage I could put a replacement on and after tuning it up to pitch I didn't have to worry about it dropping in pitch right after changing it because the end was clamped between the winds themselves. This allowed you to get right back into playing live with minimal adjustments.

These days I prefer to get at least 3 wraps around each tuner and instead of clamping the strings between the winds. I prefer to use the natural friction to hold them in place. The way I measure how long to cut the strings is very easy. Once you have inserted the string into the bridge with the bridge pin and are certain that the ball end is seated properly against the inner Bridge plate you stretch the string up to the post it is going on. Then you mark the string one post higher than the post it is going on and cut it there. For instance, If you are replacing the Low "E" string you would extend the length to even with the center of the "A" string post and cut it there. If you were installing the "A" string you would extend the length to even with the "D" post and cut it there. If doing the "D" string which is the top post, you would imagine a post above it the same distance as between the others and cut it there. Back to the low "E" string, Once it is cut to length you can take a pair of Needle nose pliers and bend approximately an 1/8"- 1/4" of the end of the string Away from the headstock out to the side. Then hook that end into the post and start winding tension on it making sure that the winds are going below the the end you hooked into the post. Keep tension on it while winding it and eventually the natural friction will take over. Go ahead and tune it to pitch and start on the next one.

NOTE: On a 12 string I measure and cut the string length to the center of the second post up from where the string will go. This is for 12 string guitars only.

For me this makes a very clean headstock area with no string ends to scratch your headstock face and no short string ends to catch and tear your cleaning cloths. Also if you have to remove the strings for any reason before their lifetime is up and wish to re-use them it is extremely simple to just slide the winds back over the post and hook your bend once again. Then re-tighten them ad you are right back to playing. This is extremely economical as some string sets can cost upwards of $25-$30 a set. Sometimes removing them before they are worn out to perform maintenance on the saddle, string nut, or frets can cost you a set of strings. With this method you can reinstall the ones that were on it and still in good shape without wasting them.

I hoe this helps and doesn't confuse anyone, Once you get the hang of it you can be pretty quick about changing the strings. I can change a set of 6 strings in about 10 minutes with one bad arm including cleaning the fretboard all while the guitar is upright on the stand. 12 string sets take me a little longer but no more than 30 minutes even if I a just relaxing while doing it.
 

adorshki

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Before I go on here I need to clarify that I probably owe TX an apology for going off on him when I misinterpreted one of his posts recently.
Having clarified that I should set some background that we've frequently poked elbows in each other's ribs about ideal string gauge for given guitars in the past.
NOW I can say "MY GOD! I can't believe we're in agreement about something as intimate as string theory!":

I prefer to use the natural friction to hold them in place.....Also if you have to remove the strings for any reason before their lifetime is up and wish to re-use them it is extremely simple... With this method you can reinstall the ones that were on it and still in good shape without wasting them.
In my case it also allowed for re-using a string instead of inserting a new one into a half-used up set which created a tone mismatch. It was more common than I'd like to admit when I was busking and guess which one snapped most often?
Yep, an .024 G, before I started using .025's.
So when I saw Guild used an .025 G, my reaction was "AHA!" They get it!
But at the same time I gradually learned I didn't have to bash my D25 as hard as that old Carlos to get a wonderful volume from it.

I hope this helps and doesn't confuse anyone, Once you get the hang of it you can be pretty quick about changing the strings. I can change a set of 6 strings in about 10 minutes with one bad arm including cleaning the fretboard all while the guitar is upright on the stand. 12 string sets take me a little longer but no more than 30 minutes even if I a just relaxing while doing it.
Yeah the primary reason it takes me so long is that I do leave the whole string uncut so it takes a bit of fussing to get the windings all lined up and not overlapped when you're dealing with some slack to get it started.
Since they most often broke at the saddle I wanted that extra length available because my field repair technique was to just wind the broken end through the ball end and re-pin, so I needed that extra length at the top to start winding with again.
I haven't broken a string in years now but I still like the look of the little coils on my winding posts instead of ugly (and sharp) little nubs.
Curls on my girls.
:biggrin-new:
 

davismanLV

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Personally, I like the method used by Taylor in their string-changing video. But I gotta know... Why leave the strings untrimmed for a couple days?
Probably to irritate the HELL out of me.... that's the only reason I can think. I use the Taylor method (video to follow) and I also use needle nose pliers to put a 90 degree bend in the end to give me a good HOOK before winding!! So here's the way civilized humans change their strings.... (that oughta get plenty of people upset... YAAAY!!)

 

davismanLV

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AND an electric string winder is really essential. When you're struggling with holding tension and getting the angle right using a hand winder is awkward. Plus if you're ever done a slot-head guitar, you'll appreciate the speed and flexibility!! Ernie Ball Power Peg is just one example of string winders, but it serves me well!!

Sea5bq.jpg
 

dapmdave

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Probably to irritate the HELL out of me.... that's the only reason I can think. I use the Taylor method (video to follow) and I also use needle nose pliers to put a 90 degree bend in the end to give me a good HOOK before winding!! So here's the way civilized humans change their strings.... (that oughta get plenty of people upset... YAAAY!!)



Well, somebody had to say it, Tom!

But "different strokes" fits in well with this issue.
 
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Stuball48

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Played another hour tonight and cut the excess string after tuning. I see no positive in leaving excess string on--can only cause problems. Ain't life great!
 

adorshki

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So here's the way civilized humans change their strings.... (that oughta get plenty of people upset... YAAAY!!)


Count me in.
Shame Shame!
Like people who clean their marijuana with metal strainers you'll die like a rabbit under the wheels of a MAC truck!
Civilization is so over-rated:
sao-paulo.jpg
 

kostask

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I don't like power winders, and have never had a problem with hand winders. What I do is to take the uncut string and put a kink in it at the next post up. Then put it into the proper post, and wind the first wind above the string hole, and all the other winds will be below the string hold. as soon as the string tension begins to increase, I cut off the excess string length. Then tune to pitch, and stretch the strings out a couple of times, tuning to pitch each time I stretch the string. i don't find the effort of a hand winder to be excessive, and a power winder is not that much faster.
 

davismanLV

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Hey Kosti!! Good to see you chipping in, amigo. Now Why wouldn't a winder be a good thing? Because when you're trying to control where the winds go, isn't it better to have a button on the other end to engage that tedious chore? WINDERS? I mean, really!! LMAO!! Let's all keep winding and strumming and picking because how you do it doesn't matter!! It's the result that really counts...... yes?
 

kostask

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Its a personal preference thing. All it takes is pressing the button a little too long, and snap! This often is accompanied by a nice new scratch on the top shortly thereafter (ask how I know). Nothing wrong with it, just a preference,
 

davismanLV

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Apparently my winder goes a LOT slower than yours!! I'd have to day dream for a long time for it to snap a string!! That's why I use the Ernie Ball one and not those converted screwdriver things...... too many RPM's, ya know? LOL!! Maybe we could convert a Chevy 350 big block to make a stri....... never mind. :stupid:
 
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