Polished the top on my M20 burst...
Polished the top
- Thread starter F30
- Start date
Nice!!!
chazmo
Super Moderator
That is a sweet, little axe. No question about it!
1500 cloth with Scratch X polish, several times
This is what Scratch X looks like.
Kitarkus
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very cool! You got guts man....I'm not sure that I could have done that. I like your results. Enjoy it.
If you get a minute....please measure the nut width on that for me with a good tape measure. I know it is 1 3/4" per the spec.....I'm just curious if they are all indeed exactly 1 3/4". This is a Guild .... so ya never know!
If you get a minute....please measure the nut width on that for me with a good tape measure. I know it is 1 3/4" per the spec.....I'm just curious if they are all indeed exactly 1 3/4". This is a Guild .... so ya never know!
It is actually right at 1 3/4" (I double checked with a steel machinist ruler)
The neck feel is fabulous
My Guild OM is just over 1 11/16 so I get what your saying but all that aside it is a comfortable neck and nut width on the M20.
These have such enticing woody tone.
I highly recommend the Oxnard M20.
The neck feel is fabulous
My Guild OM is just over 1 11/16 so I get what your saying but all that aside it is a comfortable neck and nut width on the M20.
These have such enticing woody tone.
I highly recommend the Oxnard M20.
Last edited:
D30Man
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dbirchett
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I have three Larrivee -03 series guitar which are finished in matte finish. I polished each of them with a different Meguiar's product, their 3 step polish. I was trying more to get rid of the roughness than I was to get a high gloss. I used just the polish and rags and buffed them to a semi-gloss finish, somewhat similar to a Lowden or Avalon semi-gloss. I like how it turned out and especially how it made the figure in the blackwood, koa and mahogany guitars go 3D. I would do this on any matte finished guitar. Ymmv.
FNG
Enlightened Member
My only advice with Mequiars products is to check the labels for Paint Room safe.
davismanLV
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F30, that looks SO much better!! Makes that mahogany POP!! Smart move!! :encouragement:
txbumper57
Enlightened Member
Silicone is not good on Nitro Finish guitars but since the Oxnard M20 is actually a Catalyzed Varnish finish and not a Nitro based finish I don't think it really matters. Looks Good F30!
TX
Yeah, it didn't seem to react or have any adverse affect what so ever on the finish.
It looks really good in person and I'm planning on doing back and sides...may leave the neck satin.
I'll carefully tape neck heel with blue tape first before continuing on the back and sides.
I'll post some pics after that work is completed. It is such a fun guitar to play.
It looks really good in person and I'm planning on doing back and sides...may leave the neck satin.
I'll carefully tape neck heel with blue tape first before continuing on the back and sides.
I'll post some pics after that work is completed. It is such a fun guitar to play.
FNG
Enlightened Member
The only issue is with products that contain silicone is if you have any finish repairs. Thats why I would use the the Mequiars products that are body shop or paint room safe. Scratch X is great stuff and works great, but contains silicone, which is why Mequiars doesn't recommend it's use on guitar finishes.
I actually called Mequiars and asked. Great folks.
I actually called Mequiars and asked. Great folks.
adorshki
Reverential Member
THE variation in nut width was probably a by-product of the fact that in Westerly ALL necks got final shaping by hand and maybe a little bit of production tolerance from fingerboard to fingerboard.
You never hear of such variation form Corona and later, especially New Hartford where they introduced numeric controlled machining.
I'd be surprised if Oxnard wasn't also at that same level of consistency, in fact, they acquired a bunch of New Hartford's tooling.
Remember as TXbumper mentioned these Oxnard guitars are finished with catalyzed varnish.
I think FNG's comment about watching out for silicones in case of a need for finish repair was worth mentioning but I suspect the finish is more durable than traditional NCL and I don't know if it's very amenable to repair like NCL is in the first place.
The issue with silicone is if it contaminates wood through cracks in the finish, it's almost impossible to get anything to bond to that wood again, including glue.
I do like the idea that smoothing it out with something like Meguiar's has such a wonderful effect on grain visibility.
Nuuska
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davismanLV
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It's not the finish we're worried about, it's the wood. Silicone can get through cracks and breaks in the finish. Once it's in the wood, wherever that occurs, it's there. Forever. Then gluing, repairs, and refinishing can become difficult, if not impossible. It's just good to use products WITHOUT silicone. FNG and markus know what they're talking about!! When I was in the furniture biz (restore, repair, refinish) I dealt with these kinds of issues all the time. Not fun. However, Meguiars has great products that do an AMAZING job and I used them all the time. You just have to find the ones that are Paint Shop safe, as FNG has said. They have no silicone. I used their Heavy Cut Cleaner ALL THE TIME!! Great stuff.
You have been warned. Be CAREFUL!!