converting a SF4 to left handed

Rabatavus

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Hello,

So I bought what looks like a 1997 Starfire IV (Ebay should require an alchohol test before bidding...:chargrined:)

I haven't received it yet but I'm thinking about converting it to left handed. the shape is symmetrical and I play mostly seated so the knobs won't bother me much.

I contacted a shop in NY that has a plek machine. The guy told me the bill can climb up to 600 usd for a new tusq nut, possibly reseating a new bridge, and a plek job if required.

I quote "the neck relief curve which affects stretch tempered tuning (the principal which all stringed instruments must adhere to) may not conform adequately without at least re-dressing the frets so that the instrument will intonate as LH. That would be where the Plek comes into play."

I'm starting to think about ordering a tusq nut and a tune o matic bridge and change these myself, if the nut seems tough to take out I'll probably bring it to the tech.

so I was wondering, does anyone here has infos about the nut and bridge for replacement?

Is the nut bone or plastic? anyone has the measures of its dimensions?
What about the bridge? I hear Nashville / ABR1 and the different materials and dimensions and can't figure out what I should go for.

Thanks for any help
 

Default

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Um, the plek shop sounds ridiculous.
60 bucks for a new nut. If the bridge is not angled, you can swap the saddles around. Location of the knobs will be irritating.
 

GAD

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I have a hard time believing you need to fret-level (let alone Plek) if converting to LH. Any science behind this?

The Starfire bridge is slightly angled and I'd think there is plenty of adjustment room on the bridge to take care of intonation if going LH.

As always, I'm happy to be proven wrong.
 

AcornHouse

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I contacted a shop in NY that has a plek machine. The guy told me the bill can climb up to 600 usd for a new tusq nut, possibly reseating a new bridge, and a plek job if required.

I quote "the neck relief curve which affects stretch tempered tuning (the principal which all stringed instruments must adhere to) may not conform adequately without at least re-dressing the frets so that the instrument will intonate as LH. That would be where the Plek comes into play."



Thanks for any help
Run, do not walk, away from that shop, and never return. That load of bollocks is criminal in intent.
 

Rabatavus

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Thanks for your answers.
I agree the price seems excessive. but the guys with these plek machine ask for the same price. I kept searching and found a repair shop in Manhattan (30th street guitars) with a lot of good reviews. That'd be my last resort.

Um, the plek shop sounds ridiculous.
60 bucks for a new nut. If the bridge is not angled, you can swap the saddles around. Location of the knobs will be irritating.

There's no problem playing seated, but standing up it's nearly impossible. The knobs move at the first strum. If there is a reversible solution to lock them I'm up for it. I never move them from full open and use mainly a volume pedal.

Back to the nut and bridge, any info or reference about the original hardware used?
Thanks
 

adorshki

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Thanks for your answers.
Thatns just what I thought, I mean the frets are leveled regardless of the strings used.
I'd probably go to another luthier as a last resort. I read a lot of good comments about 30th street guitars in Manhattan.
So back to the nut and bridge, any reference, or any info I could use to pick replacements? I want them to be as close as possible to the original hardware used in dimensions and material.

Not sure about electrics but for the nut at least, if it's the same material as used on the acoustic side, it's an everyday resin-based compound known as "micarta", sometimes generically called "plastic" but it's more durable than real "plastic".
Probably easy to find.
Think Tusg is a bit brighter.
If your intent is to maintain the tone it has now you may not want to go that way.
And take GAD & Default's advice to the bank, they're a couple of the most experienced electric guys here, that post, at least.

As for that bit about "relief curve" for left-handed intonation, there might be something to it but I got a suspicion after spending $600.00 you'd just feel like you got "plek'd".
Wondering if it might give worthwhile results for necks that are twisted with age or just have "lumpy fretboards" in the first place.
That's not something I've ever seen reported on Guilds.
 
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Rabatavus

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Not sure about electrics but for the nut at least, if it's the same material as used on the acoustic side, it's an everyday resin-based compound known as "micarta", sometimes generically called "plastic" but it's more durable than real "plastic".
Probably easy to find.
Think Tusg is a bit brighter.
If your intent is to maintain the tone it has now you may not want to go that way.
And take GAD & Default's advice to the bank, they're a couple of the most experienced electric guys here, that post, at least.

As for that bit about "relief curve" for left-handed intonation, there might be something to it but I got a suspicion after spending $600.00 you'd just feel like you got "plek'd".
Wondering if it might give worthwhile results for necks that are twisted with age or just have "lumpy fretboards" in the first place.
That's not something I've ever seen reported on Guilds.

(To anyone wondering about the quote, I deleted 2 messages to group them in one)

You're right, and I guess if there's anything wrong with the neck, a guitar tech would notice it. I think that settles it, 100 usd for a micarta nut and a setup plus whatever a new bridge would cost seems like a good price. I just need to pick one ^^
 

adorshki

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https://shop.guildguitars.com/product/nut-blank-micarta-5x46x11/

Guild sells these for their acoustics, it says "Micarta – 5x46x11" do you think it would fit?

Not sure, best suggestion is to take the measurements off your Starfire's nut.
Think that's millimeters: 5 thick, 46 long, 11 tall.
If anything I'd suspect a blank for a current acoustic to be a bit oversized for a vintage Starfire, but any competent luthier can "sand it down" to fit, or get one that already does..
Gotta run for the weekend but the other guys can give more info.
 

GAD

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Plek machines are cool for what they are, but I'd rather give my money to a trusted tech or luthier that will do it old-school for a LOT less money.

Plek is cool if you're a guitar store that needs to make sure 100 guitars are all perfect or a manufacturer that wants to sell guitars with a bit higher level of precision than your normal fare. I've seen guys rave about Plek'd guitars, but having played a few you can get the same playability from someone that knows what they're doing.

I still think you don't need to do any fret work when going RH to LH, though.
 

JohnW63

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It's pretty simple. Any good tech can remove and replace a nut and file it for left handed. There should also be able to adjust the bridge pieces to get it close to intonated, with not much time in it. Once you have it, give it a good play and see. If it needs more work, then you consider more. You're ears and fingers can tell you if it really needs it. Do NOT pay the highway robbery you mentioned.
 

krysh

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just a new nut and simply swap the bridge saddles first. you might get along with just positioning them right.
 

ArchtopAnimal

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As a fellow lefty , I honestly reckon you should avoid righthanded electric guitars . Something lefthanded always comes around , especially in the USA where there's tons of this stuff .
I've collected ( in 20 years ) a dozen nice lefties , and that's here in Australia where the supply is truly crap at best .
 

Rabatavus

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I want to buy a new bridge so I can keep the original one intact. I also plan on keeping the nut as is. I want to tune the guitar to drop C, it's definitely gonna have thicker strings than the one installed, that's why I prefer getting a new bridge so the tech can place appropriate grooves on instead of messing with the original one.
 

DThomasC

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Bridges are cheap. Do what you want. But you will need to cut a new LH nut. If you don't then sticky tuning and buzzing strings are in your future.

I'm not sure if you were think of making your own nut - there was some discussion about buying a blank. If you haven't already done a lot of work with hand tools on this size scale, then the odds of you being proud of the results are not real good. Worst case, I suppose, is you put the old nut back in and take it to a tech.

Stewart-McDonald sells pre-slotted nuts that are surprising close to finished. Mostly just need to sand the bottom to get the string heights right. But, nothing in left handed that I remember.
 

Rabatavus

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Bridges are cheap. Do what you want. But you will need to cut a new LH nut. If you don't then sticky tuning and buzzing strings are in your future.

I'm not sure if you were think of making your own nut - there was some discussion about buying a blank. If you haven't already done a lot of work with hand tools on this size scale, then the odds of you being proud of the results are not real good. Worst case, I suppose, is you put the old nut back in and take it to a tech.

Stewart-McDonald sells pre-slotted nuts that are surprising close to finished. Mostly just need to sand the bottom to get the string heights right. But, nothing in left handed that I remember.

I made a bone nut once for a strat and it turned out right. I think I'll bring it to a guitar tech though.
All what's left is to decide on a bridge. I read about zinc, steel, brass and titanium saddles and havo no idea what is used on these gotoh bridges that equipped these guilds.
I also see that most of these come pre notched and wish they were not. Since I'm bringing it to a tech I wish he'd make notches for the string gauges I'll be using on it.
 
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