Got my D-55 back from repair shop

JohnW63

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I guess repair shop is a bit of a crude term. I took it to Neely's Guitars in Hollywood to remove and replace or remove and re-place the pick guard that had shifted some time in it's life and adjust the setup so the low strings wouldn't buzz when I played above the 7th fret. He did the setup and it is much better. I can still make it buzz a touch , up there, if I am more forceful. I suppose just another mm height on the saddle might clear that up, but, I'll play it awhile and see. He was able to move and re-place the pickguard so it's still the stock one. He said sometimes the self stick ones could move and had heard than 3M had some glue in the past that was not quite right. After lots of elbow grease and naphtha he got it all off and stuck it back on with tite bond. I guess that means it won't move again. I did notice a few places that need some of the glue removed to make it look like it was never there. If it is tite bond, what do I use to rub those small spots out ? Will naphtha still work ?

He put 12s on it and I think he always puts Martin strings on them. It still feels easy to play and sounds louder than I recall.
 

Stuball48

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Hope your D55 continues to please. Great for you and have had a bad case of GAS for a D55 in the last two months but ran across another D40 (1973) at a GREAT price and could not pass it up. Took it straight to Chris Bozung for "whatever it needs" and he called and said it was ready. Will pick it up about noon. The price he quoted tells me it did not need much.
 

chazmo

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John, I probably shouldn't open my mouth here, but I'm pretty sure naptha won't have any affect on titebond (although, if I'm not mistaken, there are serveral versions of titebond). What I'm talking about is cyanoacrylate (I think), which is super glue. Fairly certain naptha doesn't do anything to it. What I recall from New Hartford was that (some flavor of) titebond was used instead of hide glue, and temperature is what's used to break it down (like hide glue).

Hope that's helps. Clear as mud, right? The good news is that naptha won't hurt your finish at all, so just try.
 

JohnW63

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If he used tite bond, and I can remove it cleanly, I'm going to be bummed. A drip goes across the sound hole inlays.
 

adorshki

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If he used tite bond, and I can remove it cleanly, I'm going to be bummed. A drip goes across the sound hole inlays.

Like Chaz said, Titebond's normally released with heat, but not sure if it'll lift cleanly.
OK, found this encouraging post:
"Titebond does not adhere well to non-porous surfaces so it flakes off varnish pretty easily. To remove it from wood, I moisten it for about 10 minutes. It softens a bit so it can be scraped off. Some people recommend vinegar, but I've never tried it."
From here:
https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/313338-removing-titebond-glue/
So first thing I'd try is to see if you can gently get under the edge of the drip with something very sharp and simply pry it off.
Hopefully even if it leaves a dull spot it can be buffed up.
I'd reserve heat as a last resort because I think it'll make it soft and stretchy and might leave residue on the top.
Also the amount of heat required might not be good for the top.
Otherwise I saw references to mineral spits and nail polish remover, both of which will attack the NCL.
And I wouldn't try the vinegar on NCL, either.
Suspect naptha won't have an effect as Chaz says.
And hate to sound snarky but what's u with a doofus who leaves glue drips on the top of piece like that, anyway?
Is it possible he's just losing competence and actually missed it?
 

davismanLV

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If it's normal Titebond, you should be able to chip it off once it cures. That's the rule in furniture repair...... if glue runs (and it will) let it dry, chip it off carefully with a sharp chisel, then sand and refinish but if the glue is on finish it should just chip right off. Why would he leave glue on that ran during a repair?? Wondering, J.........
 

adorshki

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John, I probably shouldn't open my mouth here, but I'm pretty sure naptha won't have any affect on titebond (although, if I'm not mistaken, there are serveral versions of titebond). What I'm talking about is cyanoacrylate (I think), which is super glue. Fairly certain naptha doesn't do anything to it.
Titebonds're aliphatic resin based, different family than superglues, cyanoacrylates as you said, and I don't think naptha will work to dissolve either one.
:friendly_wink:
Edit for JohnW:
Ah I see Tom confirmed what I found on that violin builder's site, so make that (careful chipping off) plan A for sure!
 
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JohnW63

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If chipping it off is possible, I may very carefully score it at the pick guard and use a sharp plastic tool to try encouraging it to chip, first.
 

davismanLV

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If it's regular Titebond it's wood glue and locks bare wood to bare wood. It won't stick to finished wood. Even on bare wood, if it's not holding anything together, it will chip off cleanly. Try a sharp plastic putty knife first. it should just flip off. Let me know if that works, J. :encouragement:
 

Neal

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Why not get the guy who worked on it to do the deed?

Sounds like you paid for a job that should have included this clean-up.
 

wileypickett

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As Chaz noted, there are three grades of Titebond. If the one your repair person used was water soluble, you shouldn't need to chip anything -- a damp cloth should do it.

Titebond III, however, is waterproof. Not sure what takes it off.

I'd talk to the shop first -- at least make them aware of the problem and see what they say. Any shop worth their salt will take care of the problem with no extra charge to you.

Good luck!
 

Rayk

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Why not get the guy who worked on it to do the deed?
Sounds like you paid for a job that should have included this clean-up.

Agreed , agree to Toms post if it the original tite bond .

Otherwise pics would be nice .😁
 

adorshki

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Why not get the guy who worked on it to do the deed?

Sounds like you paid for a job that should have included this clean-up.

My concern would be if he let it stay in the first place, even if only because of bad eyesight, what's my assurance he won't damage the finish when repairing it?
I'd have more confidence in my own level of care in that situation, if there was any chance of doing it at all.
Let alone the hassle of driving back to the shop.
:friendly_wink:

If chipping it off is possible, I may very carefully score it at the pick guard and use a sharp plastic tool to try encouraging it to chip, first.
Yeah, I don't think which type it is, is gonna matter, it should all dry hard and brittle, as woodworking glue.
And from the Titebond site:
Before we tell you how they are different, let’s look at what they share. All three formulas:
•Provide a much stronger bond than the wood itself
•Offer excellent heat-resistance and are very easy to sand
Are water cleanup while still wet
•Provide strong initial tack and a 30-minute clamp time
•Conform to ASTM D4236 – Non-toxic and safe to use
 
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Bill Ashton

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I am very sure that we saw them using Titebond II when we did the LMG days. Reason is, I always meant to pick some up for the workbench, but have soldiered on using a very old
bottle of yellow Elmers for the few things I have needed. Also saw it at Huss & Dalton as well.
 

adorshki

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I am very sure that we saw them using Titebond II when we did the LMG days.
I always remembered reading that report too, because it surprised me.
Also recall it was specifically noted as being used in the neck-setting process because of the workability time.
The impression I got was that it was only used in the neck joint but realize now that may not have been accurate, I may have simply been reading that into the post.

Reason is, I always meant to pick some up for the workbench, but have soldiered on using a very old
bottle of yellow Elmers for the few things I have needed. Also saw it at Huss & Dalton as well.
They're both aliphatic resin glues, but it appears that Titebond may offer some advantages with formulas that aren't available in the Elmers product.
 

JohnW63

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Why not get the guy who worked on it to do the deed?

Because it's 2 hours each way, into Hollywood, on Sunset. I'd probably have to drop it off and go back a second time. If it won't budge, I'll call him. Traffic in that area sucks , mid week and mid day.
 

JohnW63

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After hearing it might be safe to pick at the glue, I just sharpened a wooden skewer and chipped of the hard stuff. There was some that was another glue that was still soft that I rubbed off too. A bit of naphtha on a Q-tip should clean up the rest. That eases my mind.
 

idealassets

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I have had a few luthiers do horrible work on my guitars. Unfortunately I fell out of love with a few of these guitars and was fortunately able to sell them off before things got even worse. I then located a few competent luthiers, although I now have to drive a lot further; no problem.

At least around here you have some good words from folks that know particulars about their well loved Guild guitars. But here again many luthiers seem to think its just another cash cow guitar coming in, and I never go back to such places.

I especially like the action on my 2007 D55 and if it ever needs any work I am hopeful that it will continue to work as well. I now know where to take it for a number luthiers that will all truly appreciate working on it. They see a lot of nice Martin's but its rare for them to see an American made Guild come in. Its Elderly instruments in Lansing, MI. Although of course most everyone else on this is a long distance from there.
 

davismanLV

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Please remember if you're having a run with original Titebond or almost any wood glue, the LAST THING you want to do is EVER wipe it with a damp cloth!! It'll come off and also dilute the glue and soak into the raw wood. Then it won't stain or finish or anything. That's why you let it dry completely, chip it off, then sand. Just a run or too will not soak into the wood much. But if it's water based glue and you use a damp anything to remove it, it will just dilute the glue and soak into the wood. NOT a good thing.

Sounds like you have it all covered and it looks okay, John?? I hope so.

Different glues require different things. And using too much glue will cause grief. Water based Titebond is great if you brush both sides and surfaces evenly, removing excess glue, and then give it a moment to start to set up, then clamp and allow to dry. All runs can be chipped off later. Then you sand and finish. You have to be careful with what glues you use.

How'd it turn out, J??? :encouragement::encouragement:
 
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I’m kind of surprised to hear this. David Neely works on all my guitars, if it’s above my skill level, and he’s amazing! And I know a lot of musicians here go to him. Did you call him about it?
 
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