Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 37 of 37

Thread: NS Starfire V Mod Idea

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by GAD View Post
    The last thing a T-60 needs is more weight!
    That is a genuine fact! ;)

    -Dave-
    1962 F-20 Troubadour
    1970 M-75 Bluesbird
    1971 S-100 "Black Cherry"
    1973 S-100 "Nature Boy"
    1990 Nightbird Custom
    1999 X-170T
    2013 NS M-75 Aristocrat
    2016 NS S-200 T-bird

    c. 1971 Foxey Lady

  2. #32
    OOP can be a useful sound.,mostly for rhythm stuff with me. There's a range: turn both volumes up all the way. Depending on how your pickups are balanced, one or both of the volume knobs will have have a huge effect when turned down just a little. There's a large range of sounds in that tiny little turn of the knob.
    DTC

    1958 T-100, 1964 S-50, 1964 M-65, 1976 S-300 (bolt-on neck), 1977 D-25, 1977 S-300, 1979 S-300A, 1983 S-25, 1984 Detonator, 1987 Nightbird (spruce top), 1988 D-15, 2001 Blues90, 2002 Bluesbird P90, 2014 Aristocrat

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by GAD View Post
    I spent most of my impressionable years with a Guild S300AD that had a phase switch but I never used it, mostly because I was a "bridge pickup into a high-gain amp with everything on 10 (except the mids)" kind of guy. Hey - it was the '80s.

    Now I love the OOP tone. I agree, though, that a serial/parallel switch is a very cool addition.
    Maybe I should try it again :)

    The OOP setting on the L6S has a cap to reduce the mids on the neck pickup resulting in less phase cancellation, therefore a less extreme (and less interesting) sound
    1957 X175 (ex)
    1960 Starfire III (ex)
    1962 X175
    1966 Starfire III (ex)
    1966 Duane Eddy DE-400
    2002 Starfire III-90

  4. #34
    Someone mentioned coil tapping earlier, and while it isn't the same as coil splitting, would it be possible on a reissue LB1? My understanding is that both aim to approximate single coil tones through different methods. In my brain a Split sounds somewhat like a weak single coil, where a coil Tap is more like a weak p90?

    Coil tapping on each, and throwing in a OOP could be crazy!!

  5. #35
    Coil tapping is generally done with hot single-coil pickups, to offer a cleaner & clearer alternative sound. Overwound P90s are good candidates for this. You can do it with HBs too…tapping one coil yields a similar cleaner & clearer alt sound but also reduces hum cancelling. Tapping both coils doesn't (in my experience) sound much different than running 'em at full strength in parallel rather than series. IMO parallel humbucking mode works especially well with Super Distortion-style pickups.

    Coil tapping requires partially unwinding the coil(s) if not doing a complete rewind.

    -Dave-
    1962 F-20 Troubadour
    1970 M-75 Bluesbird
    1971 S-100 "Black Cherry"
    1973 S-100 "Nature Boy"
    1990 Nightbird Custom
    1999 X-170T
    2013 NS M-75 Aristocrat
    2016 NS S-200 T-bird

    c. 1971 Foxey Lady

  6. #36
    Member b0rn2w0rsh1p's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Asheville, NC (prev: Casper, Wy & FL Gulf Coast)
    Posts
    57
    Well, of course having the original Guild knob is important. My biggest concern would be the extra depth required for the push me-pull you. Just to estimate, you may want to stick a ruler in the "f" hole and read how much depth you have. Unfortunately the first search didn't have dimensions (https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...rt-split-shaft). Just looking at Pictures, it looks like CTS might make some that aren't as "long".

    I have a DeArmond Opto-isolated (not the pre-amp or passive) Volume pedal - the only down-side is it requires 110V; but it is the quietest, most usable volume pedal ever - and since the signal doesn't go through a pot - no problems with treble-bleed, scratchy pots or only getting 95% rotation like with geared or string-driven ones. I never noticed a difference in treble using my DeArmond pedal - but I don't think I remember a change with the other pedals, usually using them for note and chord swells, but sometimes to pull back the volume if I'm too hot, and I'm too busy with my strumming hand.
    GUILDs:
    '72 S-90, '64 S-200 Thunderbird, '77 S-300D, '84 S-284(ish); '85 F-4CE Satin; Custom Shop Peregrine Quilt; '72 Starfire IV (Birthday Present 2015)
    by GUILDs:
    Madeira A-20; Madeira JS-2; Burnside Tele (-headstock); Madeira P-812; Madeira SuperStrat & P/J Bass (Twins); Burnside Headless StreetBass (Project)
    DeARMONDS:
    '06 Ashbory Bass; Pilot V Bass (2); JetStar Special Bass; M-65; M-65C; X-155

  7. #37
    Member b0rn2w0rsh1p's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Asheville, NC (prev: Casper, Wy & FL Gulf Coast)
    Posts
    57
    Having had all double hum in a 'hog body Guilds for awhile (S-90, S-200, S-300), the OOP gave me that thin Strat or Tele sound, for when my rhythm "chunkin" had to cut through the mix...
    GUILDs:
    '72 S-90, '64 S-200 Thunderbird, '77 S-300D, '84 S-284(ish); '85 F-4CE Satin; Custom Shop Peregrine Quilt; '72 Starfire IV (Birthday Present 2015)
    by GUILDs:
    Madeira A-20; Madeira JS-2; Burnside Tele (-headstock); Madeira P-812; Madeira SuperStrat & P/J Bass (Twins); Burnside Headless StreetBass (Project)
    DeARMONDS:
    '06 Ashbory Bass; Pilot V Bass (2); JetStar Special Bass; M-65; M-65C; X-155

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •