Guild d25m 1974

dreadnut

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Looks like a twin to my '76. The best version of this model imho, arched back and spruce top. BIG sound and sustain. Brazilian rosewood bridge and fingerboard.
 

Guildedagain

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The M is somewhat misleading, especially now that Mahogany tops are almost faddishly popular...

I would think you could cancel it without much hurt feelings, much easier than a return.

I wouldn't mind a Mahogany topped guitar, but luckily I'm not actively looking for one because I've always sounded just fine on Spruce topped guitars, especially since switching to vintage Guild D35 guitars. In fact the tone is so good, I don't need to look for anything else. Well, except for other old Guilds ;)
 

Bonneville88

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Congrats - as long as there's no neck angle issue and it has decent saddle, should
not disappoint! Recommend trying Elixir Nano 80/20 bronze mediums or medium bottom / light top
if you want to make your sonic presence known...

Have had (and still have) various D25s - IME the spruce top models are noticeably louder than
all-hog variants, with plenty of overtones, with the unexpected exception of the flat-back early 2000s Corona models (have had 4, still own 2) which are absolutely remarkable guitars and sonically distinguish themselves from D25s of all other eras...
 
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gscratch

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FWIW: my 1973 D-25M is hog sides and back and face, as far as I know. the face in your picture it brighter red than mine.
 

adorshki

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Just had a bid accepted on reverb... was hoping it was the all mahogany version but starting to worry it isn't just the stained top. Should have done more research. Here is the link if anyone can advise if it is or isn't: https://reverb.com/item/24765076-1974-guild-d25m-6-string-acoustic-guitar
Welcome aboard electriceye!
Another D25 lover here, confirming it's a stained spruce top.
Typically a genuine D25 arched-back 'hog top is NOT labeled D25M; that term was technically supposed to apply to the stained spruce top, but we've seen mislabels on both types.
I see now the listing verbiage does say spruce top but under "specs" it shows:

"Top Material Mahogany
Back Material Mahogany
Sides Material Mahogany"

Might give you a diplomatic bargaining point if you need it.
If you can cancel with seller and you've got your sights set on a genuine 'hog top archback , '73 is the year with the greatest number of sightings and reports around here.
If the archback isn't part of your requirements, all flat backed D25's got 'hog tops.
In counterpoint the overwhelming majority of D25's built had the spruce top/arched back configuration:
'Hog top/flatback from '68 to 74 approx. (there was overlap of types in the transition period)
'Hog top archback from '72 to '74 approx. (even know of one oddball from '76)
Spruce top/archback from '74 approx to '01
And the return to all-hog from '02-late '03 as Bonneville mentioned.
I like to say "Read between those lines", but I still get it when it comes to seeking a particular build formula.
 

dreadnut

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Give it a shot; if it's in good shap[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]e you probably have a real loud and resonant dread with lots of bottom end like mine. Yeah, it's odd that they changed the model # from D-25 to D-25M after changing from 'hog to spruce tops. The "M" was supposed to denote Mahogany colored stain. D-25C = Cherry, D-25Br = Brown, etc.

This is my '76 D-25M, still my main axe after 43 years.

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adorshki

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Yeah, it's odd that they changed the model # from D-25 to D-25M after changing from 'hog to spruce tops.
To be fair, it makes sense when the original D25 formula meant all-mahogany anyway, so no need to designate a top wood with a suffix, which wasn't how they did things anyway, as you mention.
ON reflection, that color designation may have actually helped distinguish the spruce from the 'hog tops during the period when both were available for sale at the same time.
What I find interesting is that the early "M"'s seem to have had a much lighter stain than the later ones starting around '79, IIRC.
Those later ones are much more of a "chocolate brown".
Personally I much prefer the lighter version.
 

dreadnut

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The D-25C's were pretty too.

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I think you will love it, even if it is stained spruce! You can always add a mahogany one to the collection :) I just picked up a great spruce top one eBay. My dilemma is I can't date it. I am thinking early 90s, as it has original Grovers and a MOP inlay on the headstock, but the serial number doesn't match any charts. It is CF006939. I don't see any d-25s listed with the CF prefix. D4s have that prefix, but the numbers do get that high and the label clearly says D-25... Hmmm
 

adorshki

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I think you will love it, even if it is stained spruce! You can always add a mahogany one to the collection :) I just picked up a great spruce top one eBay. My dilemma is I can't date it. I am thinking early 90s, as it has original Grovers and a MOP inlay on the headstock, but the serial number doesn't match any charts. It is CF006939. I don't see any d-25s listed with the CF prefix. D4s have that prefix, but the numbers do get that high and the label clearly says D-25... Hmmm

I see a first post and welcome aboard Larry!
Yes the Guild s/n charts can be confusing until one becomes aware of a couple of things we've figured out over the years.
I'll preface by explaining that we know there are errors and omissions per our "guru" Hans Moust author of the Guild Guitar Book.
S/N sequence changes were rarely instituted with the change of a calendar year, so for example that CF006541 showing as the last number for '93 doesn't mean they stopped using that sequenc at the end of '93, and it doesn't include anything that was built using the CF prefix in '94.
Sometime in '94 the new "AD04" sequence was instituted for D4's (and presumably D25s as explained below), and only the last number in that sequence is shown for '94. So all the "CF" numbers for '94 don't show up.
http://guildguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/history_of_your_guild.pdf
Oh yeah almost forgot, there's probably a date stamp on the edge of the heel block, hard to notice unless you know what to look for.
That's the date the "superstructure" was completed and could be anywhere from a couple of weeks to a couple of months before guitar was finally completed and s/n stamped and ready-to-ship, in any case you know it can't possibly be any older than that date.
Got pics?
Kinda curious to see if there are any unusual details about it, given that oddball s/n number.
We've even seen cases of labeling errors but with that pearloid logo I considered it to be a legit D25.
:friendly_wink:
Edited after seeing Hans Moust's post following.
 
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hansmoust

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I just picked up a great spruce top one eBay. My dilemma is I can't date it. I am thinking early 90s, as it has original Grovers and a MOP inlay on the headstock, but the serial number doesn't match any charts. It is CF006939. I don't see any d-25s listed with the CF prefix. D4s have that prefix, but the numbers do get that high and the label clearly says D-25...

Hello Larry,

Welcome! What you have is a D4-HG and it is from the year 1993. Since this version of the D-4 was only available for a short period, it may have been mistaken for a D-25 by the person who wrote up the label because of the gloss finish.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
 
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Whoa, got a little busy the last few days and forgot to check this post. Thanks for all the replies! Guitar arrived pretty quick and it is great! Saddle is a little low (unnecessarily, the strings sit a little too close to the fret board) but the neck angle seems fine, might need a reset in 5-10 yrs.
 
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Anyone change out the tuners in their 25m? If so, what did you use and what modifications did you have to make?
 

Guildedagain

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I suppose you could fairly easily upgrade to sealed Grovers, which might be a tad heavier, but who knows, some of this new Chaiwan stuff is a bit lighter than the old USA parts.

You have to ream the holes to 3/8/10mm, strongly suggest the proper reamer and watch a couple videos.

There are other tuners, Klusons, Waverly, there's no telling what might fit and work without a lot of fuss.

I have four Guild dreads (what?) and they all have different factory tuners.

I like the old Grover open backs myself. The Japan strip tuners work better properly lubed and adjusted. Personally I think it's normal to have sloppy old tuners that have a lot of backlash, as long as they're stable once in tune you're golden.
 

millrat

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Changed mine on my 1988 d25m to gotohs about 20 yrs back. Thought I would have to get a reamer but the holes were correct after the bushings on the originals were taken out. Peasant surprise!
 

Guildedagain

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Gotta say the strip tuners in my recent '73 D25 find are surprisingly smooth, and tight.

Same tuners on my '72 F30 aren't a problem either.

On my '68 F112 they're kind of a bear and a couple on the treble side feel like you're hauling up an old tire from the bottom of the lake.

Actual Japan Gotoh tuners have always been very fine tuners, and the last set I bought - aged nickel for Tele - were just amazing. Way better than reissue Klusons.

So I'm wondering, what does Gotoh make now that can help some of these guitars out?
 

D30Man

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Welcome to LTG EE.. Congrats on what is likely to be a fine instrument. Looks like spruce to me sir..
 
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