Hoboken F-30 Bridge shaved down and lifting?

adorshki

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Thanks, I found the right tool to adjust the truss rod (after a quick search on LTG threads), and loosened by 1/4 turn - the truss rod moved easily, so that's good. This morning I found the G string buzz mostly gone other than with exaggeratedly hard plucking. Action at 3/32" at the 6th string.
That was actually Guild's published spec in the first Guild Gallery (late '97), so if it's right there (and I like it at their design spec on all of mine) I'd still say you're golden!
I've been looking again at the back of the bridge in the sunlight, I think that's definitely glue filling a gap, and not finish build up pushed against the back of the bridge. This judging from the air bubbles.
That's actually what I thought too, based, like you, on the air bubbles.
So anyway, as long as it isn't epoxy (not sure how to tell), I can get this addressed for the cost of a bridge reglue.
Possible a luthier has little tricks to ID it before exposing it to heat but that may be the only way... epoxy won't give under heat, at least heat that doesn't also incinerate the wood...on the other hand, as mentioned above, if the guitar's already playable to your satisfaction, why would you want to do that now, unless somebody gives a good explanation as to why it's definitely desirable?
Epoxy's pretty hard too and might well be transmitting vibration every bit as well as hide glue.
I'm in the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" school, although if money was no object I might be tempted to have it done myself if I was satisfied it wasn't "Factory", and wanted to restore it to be "everything it could be".
Over the years I've seen enough surprises to still think it might just actually be a factory job, and I'd send those pics to our guru Hans for his assessment, before making a final decision:
http://www.guitarchives.nl/guitarsgalore/

You can also elect to send him an email by clicking on his user id like in this thread:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?200297-Wild-looking-rosewood
 

jfilm

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That was actually Guild's published spec in the first Guild Gallery (late '97), so if it's right there (and I like it at their design spec on all of mine) I'd still say you're golden!

That's actually what I thought too, based, like you, on the air bubbles.

Possible a luthier has little tricks to ID it before exposing it to heat but that may be the only way... epoxy won't give under heat, at least heat that doesn't also incinerate the wood...on the other hand, as mentioned above, if the guitar's already playable to your satisfaction, why would you want to do that now, unless somebody gives a good explanation as to why it's definitely desirable?
Epoxy's pretty hard too and might well be transmitting vibration every bit as well as hide glue.
I'm in the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" school, although if money was no object I might be tempted to have it done myself if I was satisfied it wasn't "Factory", and wanted to restore it to be "everything it could be".
Over the years I've seen enough surprises to still think it might just actually be a factory job, and I'd send those pics to our guru Hans for his assessment, before making a final decision:
http://www.guitarchives.nl/guitarsgalore/

You can also elect to send him an email by clicking on his user id like in this thread:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?200297-Wild-looking-rosewood

I'm also in that school - though I'll keep an eye on the back of that bridge and get it repaired if it looks like anything has changed. Thanks for all the advice and information.
 
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