Hello, everyone.
This is my first post here. I am an engineer and I build my own guitars, both electric and acoustic. I am seeking to repair a 1976 D-50SB constructed in Westerly Rhode Island that's a one-owner family heirloom. I am curious about a few things related to how it was built, and how it was originally finished. I am much more familiar with Martin (sorry everyone) but I've had a sweet spot for D-50's and D-55's and have started to collect them. I would appreciate any historical information, or tips and suggestions. Here's what I know and what I don't know...
Repairs done to-date by someone else over the decades:
1. Neck reset
2. Bridge reset
3. Neck and head stock shot darker (almost black) after the neck reset
4. Crack repair down the center of the top, from the center-bottom of the bridge half way to the binding.
5. Spot re-finishing of the nitro in random areas. Appears to be poorly applied flash coatings
Repairs Required Today:
1. Re-repair of the center-top crack
2. Fill/remove blemishes from the bridge reset on the top
3. Fill/remove case bite along the top edges from the original metal-rimmed ABS case
4. Removal and replacement of stripped truss rod nut (replacement one ready to go on)
My Questions:
1. Does anyone have any tips, hacks, or advice for removing said truss rod nut?
2. How thick is the sound hole purfling of this era guitar?
3. If I strip the top to re-repair the crack and case bites via sanding or chemical strip, will either method remove the sound hole purfling?
4. Would careful gradient sanding by hand be safer than chemical strip in general to the guitar?
5. What colors were shot at the factory for the sunburst? Amber and brown? Amber brown and black? Other?
6. Would a 1976 Guild D-50SB have come from the factory with a black pick guard, or a faux tortoise one?
Thanks in advance to anyone willing to take on this Guild rookie.
This is my first post here. I am an engineer and I build my own guitars, both electric and acoustic. I am seeking to repair a 1976 D-50SB constructed in Westerly Rhode Island that's a one-owner family heirloom. I am curious about a few things related to how it was built, and how it was originally finished. I am much more familiar with Martin (sorry everyone) but I've had a sweet spot for D-50's and D-55's and have started to collect them. I would appreciate any historical information, or tips and suggestions. Here's what I know and what I don't know...
Repairs done to-date by someone else over the decades:
1. Neck reset
2. Bridge reset
3. Neck and head stock shot darker (almost black) after the neck reset
4. Crack repair down the center of the top, from the center-bottom of the bridge half way to the binding.
5. Spot re-finishing of the nitro in random areas. Appears to be poorly applied flash coatings
Repairs Required Today:
1. Re-repair of the center-top crack
2. Fill/remove blemishes from the bridge reset on the top
3. Fill/remove case bite along the top edges from the original metal-rimmed ABS case
4. Removal and replacement of stripped truss rod nut (replacement one ready to go on)
My Questions:
1. Does anyone have any tips, hacks, or advice for removing said truss rod nut?
2. How thick is the sound hole purfling of this era guitar?
3. If I strip the top to re-repair the crack and case bites via sanding or chemical strip, will either method remove the sound hole purfling?
4. Would careful gradient sanding by hand be safer than chemical strip in general to the guitar?
5. What colors were shot at the factory for the sunburst? Amber and brown? Amber brown and black? Other?
6. Would a 1976 Guild D-50SB have come from the factory with a black pick guard, or a faux tortoise one?
Thanks in advance to anyone willing to take on this Guild rookie.