1976 Guild D-50SB

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Hello, everyone.

This is my first post here.
I am an engineer and I build my own guitars, both electric and acoustic. I am seeking to repair a 1976 D-50SB constructed in Westerly Rhode Island that's a one-owner family heirloom. I am curious about a few things related to how it was built, and how it was originally finished. I am much more familiar with Martin (sorry everyone) but I've had a sweet spot for D-50's and D-55's and have started to collect them. I would appreciate any historical information, or tips and suggestions. Here's what I know and what I don't know...

Repairs done to-date by someone else over the decades:
1. Neck reset
2. Bridge reset
3. Neck and head stock shot darker (almost black) after the neck reset
4. Crack repair down the center of the top, from the center-bottom of the bridge half way to the binding.
5. Spot re-finishing of the nitro in random areas. Appears to be poorly applied flash coatings

Repairs Required Today:
1. Re-repair of the center-top crack
2. Fill/remove blemishes from the bridge reset on the top
3. Fill/remove case bite along the top edges from the original metal-rimmed ABS case
4. Removal and replacement of stripped truss rod nut (replacement one ready to go on)

My Questions:
1. Does anyone have any tips, hacks, or advice for removing said truss rod nut?
2. How thick is the sound hole purfling of this era guitar?
3. If I strip the top to re-repair the crack and case bites via sanding or chemical strip, will either method remove the sound hole purfling?
4. Would careful gradient sanding by hand be safer than chemical strip in general to the guitar?
5. What colors were shot at the factory for the sunburst? Amber and brown? Amber brown and black? Other?
6. Would a 1976 Guild D-50SB have come from the factory with a black pick guard, or a faux tortoise one?

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to take on this Guild rookie.
 

Cougar

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This is my first post here....

Welcome to the boards! I typically pay a guy like you to work on my guitars, but I imagine someone will be along to answer some of your questions. Best of luck with your re-repair!
 

geoguy

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Welcome to LTG, ParNT.

You may already be aware of Stew Mac's "truss rod rescue kit" . . . although pricey, it might be a more-economical option than removing the fretboard to gain access to the truss rod:



A quick search on-line shows both sunburst & natural D-50 examples from 1976 that all appear to have black pick guards.
 

adorshki

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Welcome aboard ParNT!
Your list contains questions I don't recall ever seeing gone into here, and although the topic will absolutely get more views here in the "Acoustic" forum, it might get more focused answers in the "Tech Shop" subforum.
A moderator can do that if desired, and btw be aware that all new members' first few posts are vetted by mods, so give it a couple of days and your posts will show up in real time.
I think our member HansMoust is the single most likely guy to know all the right answers, he wrote "the Guild Guitar Book" and is our ultimate go-to guy for that kind of stuff.
You can reach him from here using the private message system or contact him directly at his website:
http://www.guitarchives.nl/guitarsgalore/

Good luck or should I say "have fun!" with the project!
 

GardMan

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Welcome to LTG!

The only one of your questions I can answer with some degree of certainty... my (now departed) '76 D-50NT came with a black pick guard.

I also doubt that a metal-rimmed ABS case was original to the guitar, since I don't know that ABS cases were around in '76. Standard Guild dread cases from the mid-70s were Tolex-covered plywood, with either a bright blue push lining or purple felt lining (note that these cases can "bite" just as hard... ask me how I know!).

We would love to see pics!
 
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