1978 G37BL saddle change

[BarkingPumpkin]

I am new to the forum... I own a 1978 G37BL & have owned it since '78. I recently started playing it again after many years.

I would like to change the saddle to lower the action since my left hand doesn't have the strength it once had & the minor arthritis kicks in after/while playing.
Any issues doing this? Or any things to consider?

I will also put 9's strings on the guitar to help make it easier to play.

I am just an unfinished basement, 60+ year old guitar player wanting to use up some time playing this nice guitar. Not looking to play out in a club. Thanks...

 

[chazmo]

Welcome aboard, barking pumpkin.

The issues in lowering a saddle -- which you can do yourself by sanding the bottom on a flat surface, slowly -- is that it might cause string buzz if other adjustments are not made.

Your best bet is to bring it to a guitar luthier/tech for a set up as there are several things to take into account. But, as I mentioned, if it's really just lowering the saddle, you could try sanding it yourself. Best wishes, and welcome aboard!

 

[BarkingPumpkin]

Welcome aboard, barking pumpkin.

The issues in lowering a saddle -- which you can do yourself by sanding the bottom on a flat surface, slowly -- is that it might cause string buzz if other adjustments are not made.

Your best bet is to bring it to a guitar luthier/tech for a set up as there are several things to take into account. But, as I mentioned, if it's really just lowering the saddle, you could try sanding it yourself. Best wishes, and welcome aboard!

Thanks for the reply & thoughts.

I was thinking of doing the change myself to see if i get the results i am hoping. If not, there are a few great guitar tech's a few miles from my house to see what they could do to improve the action. I was hoping the guitar center by the house has different sized saddles that could work to lower the action.

btw - just doing a visual of the neck, the neck isn't bowed, or is only minimally bowed.

 

[gjmalcyon]

Welcome! Stick around - nice folks around here. That's a nice guitar you have - mine gets a far amount of playing time.

Another option would be to have Bob Colosi make you a saddle or two - that way you can do a little experimentation. He's made saddles for a couple of my guitars and is nice to work with.

Home - Guitar Saddles

Handmade Guitars Saddles, Picks, Bones and Accessories.

www.guitarsaddles.com

 

[GardMan]

Do you find it much easier to play if you put a capo on the first fret? If you answer "Yes," then I think the problem is the action at the nut, rather than the saddle. I find that the string height at the NUT is one of the biggest factors in how "easy" a guitar is to play... particularly if most of your playing is done in the first few frets.

Another way to make it easier to play is to tune your guitar down a half or full step (you might keep your string gauge the same, for this), and then capo up one or two frets. That will reduce the string tension, without dropping the string gauge.

If you want to try changing saddles yourself, Bob Colosi's "standard martin 3/32" drop in saddle" can be adapted to fit your Guild. It's not hard, takes maybe 30-60 min. I've posted instructions before (really, just modifications of the instructions Colosi sends with his saddles)... you might be able to find those posts using the search function, or send me a PM and I'll type 'em out for you again.

Good luck!

 

[BarkingPumpkin]

Welcome! Stick around - nice folks around here. That's a nice guitar you have - mine gets a far amount of playing time.

Another option would be to have Bob Colosi make you a saddle or two - that way you can do a little experimentation. He's made saddles for a couple of my guitars and is nice to work with.

Home - Guitar Saddles

Handmade Guitars Saddles, Picks, Bones and Accessories.

www.guitarsaddles.com

Thanks. Yes a nice guitar that needs some playing again.

I will take a look at the guitarsaddles.com web site.

 

[BarkingPumpkin]

Do you find it much easier to play if you put a capo on the first fret? If you answer "Yes," then I think the problem is the action at the nut, rather than the saddle. I find that the string height at the NUT is one of the biggest factors in how "easy" a guitar is to play... particularly if most of your playing is done in the first few frets.

Another way to make it easier to play is to tune your guitar down a half or full step (you might keep your string gauge the same, for this), and then capo up one or two frets. That will reduce the string tension, without dropping the string gauge.

If you want to try changing saddles yourself, Bob Colosi's "standard martin 3/32" drop in saddle" can be adapted to fit your Guild. It's not hard, takes maybe 30-60 min. I've posted instructions before (really, just modifications of the instructions Colosi sends with his saddles)... you might be able to find those posts using the search function, or send me a PM and I'll type 'em out for you again.

Good luck!

Do you find it much easier to play if you put a capo on the first fret? ==> It is not too hard to play chords at the 1st fret. Plus i am hoping going down to 9's for my strings will help with making it easier.

If you want to try changing saddles yourself, Bob Colosi's "standard martin 3/32" drop in saddle" can be adapted to fit your Guild. It's not hard, takes maybe 30-60 min. I've posted instructions before (really, just modifications of the instructions Colosi sends with his saddles)... you might be able to find those posts using the search function, or send me a PM and I'll type 'em out for you again. ==> I will take a look for the instructions. Thanks much for the heads up.

 

[Wilmywood]

Thanks for the reply & thoughts.

I was thinking of doing the change myself to see if i get the results i am hoping. If not, there are a few great guitar tech's a few miles from my house to see what they could do to improve the action. I was hoping the guitar center by the house has different sized saddles that could work to lower the action.

btw - just doing a visual of the neck, the neck isn't bowed, or is only minimally bowed.

I have a '72 G37 and have had a '78 as well. I find an eighth to a quarter turn of my truss rod makes a big difference. I tighten until it buzzes a bit then back it off till it doesn't. I usually let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes in between 1/8 turns to settle, then allow it to settle overnight before I call it good.