212 XL?

Kurtle

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I have been looking for an old Guild 12 string and found one where I am flying to for vacation in a couple months. This thing looks old and beat up, but I'm hoping to make it my old beat up guitar. I want to buy a case for it for the flight back or possibly shipping it, but need to dial in what it is exactly. Post says it is a 1972 F212, but the tag looks like F 212 XL. SN kind of looks like AE 215, which doesn't match anything on Guilds SN Tables. Anyone know what this is? Thanks for looking





F212 XL. S Label.png Top.pngBack.png
 

Norrissey

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I have a late '60s F212XL - love it (FYI for some reason the Guild factory did not keep serial number logs for this model in this period so it is hard to date them precisely - I have AE 405 - also late 60s - Hans above is the top authority on Guild guitars in the world so if he says late '60s that is the closest date you will get : )
I purchased a new Guild Jumbo acoustic case for my F212XL and it fits well. The Guild Guitar store where you can buy such a case is currently offline or I would send you the link. Hopefully they will be up and running again soon.
Good luck!

 

Cougar

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I have been looking for an old Guild 12 string...
That's definitely an old Guild 12-string!
This thing looks old and beat up, but I'm hoping to make it my old beat up guitar.
How much repair work are you willing to tolerate? Most expensive, I guess, is a neck reset, which it may or may not need -- $500-1,000. New frets?
I want to buy a case for it for the flight back or possibly shipping it, but need to dial in what it is exactly. Post says it is a 1972 F212, but the tag looks like F 212 XL.
Yeah, that XL makes a big difference! So it's a 17.25 inch lower bout jumbo with a 25 5/8 scale length. Looks like Sweetwater has what you need. I'd call and talk to them to make sure.
 

chazmo

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Beat up is fine, @Kurtle , but there may be a reason why there are no strings on that guitar, which is what @Cougar is alluding to. It will be unplayable if the neck is bad. Be careful with this one. I hate to see people get suckered into 12-string guitars which aren't set up properly. Most folks end up throwing them in the closet and getting the wrong impression that 12-strings are hard to play.
17" not 17.25", Cougs.
 

Kurtle

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Thanks for the replies fellas. By the time I got back to him, it was sold. The search continues......
 

Kurtle

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Lucky me! After missing this previous one, I was searching allofcraigslist earlier this week for Guild 212XL and one showed up for sale a few minutes away down the street. 1976 212XL in great condition (I think). The fella bought it brand new and has treated it very well ever since. He can't play anymore because of arthritis and was selling for a very good price. He said he always played it tuned down two steps and kept it in a case with humidity packs. It was un able to test it out. We were unable to tune it. Long story, but while I was there I noticed the saddle was in backwards (higher on the high strings and bending in towards the sound hole) and he had the light strings and heavy strings backwards (I think some 12-strings get strung this way, but for this one the nut slots seemed to be filed for thin strings above the thick ones). He pooped a string trying to tune it then I popped two trying my self. I purchased anyways because this thing look pristine (very minor bellying, straight neck, low action, full saddle and bridge). I have some worries though. When I got it home I restrung it and tuned it down 2 steps with some cracking and popping noises involved. I noticed the bridge lifting a little bit on the high E side and a decent dent in the top where the partially lifting bridge is pulling up on the top. I took off tension and feel I should get the bridge repaired before tightening strings again. I stummed a little bit, but with light strings and it being tuned down 2 steps it nothing to get excited about yet.
 

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gjmalcyon

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Kurtle

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chazmo

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Kurtie, if you heard cracking, you need to have some work done to probably remove and re-affix the bridge. If you let it go, you run the risk of the bridge tearing off wood.
 

gjmalcyon

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A card slides about 3/16" under the corner pictured.
Yeah, that might be more than the typical amount.

According to this thread it usually is 1/16" to 1/8":

 

Kurtle

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Kurtie, if you heard cracking, you need to have some work done to probably remove and re-affix the bridge. If you let it go, you run the risk of the bridge tearing off wood.
Every time I heard it I kept picturing a ripped of bridge with part of the top on it. Nightmare material.
 

Rayk

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Sweet looking 212 . As the gang says have it looked at . Hydrate it also if humidity low could help the top to settle down if starting to belly . No strings on it though and it takes a while have any effect without a clamping process . Anywho bridge lift can catch the bridge pins if gets that far that could also create cracking depend how thick the bridge plate is .

Good luck can’t wait to hear it ! 😊
 

Rob Reilly

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picturing a ripped off bridge with part of the top on it
It happened to me with my 1973 Westerly F212XL, in the middle of a performance with an audience of 250.
The guitar suddenly went flat. I looked down at the bridge, and there was a gap of about 1/8".
"Is there a luthier in the house? That's all for this evening, folks. Thank you all for coming."
 

Kurtle

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looks like is has a cracked bridge plate. Local luthier is going to install a maple bridge play over the rosewood one. It should be ready to rip after that.
 
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