AcornHouse
Venerated Member
For some reason I'm starting to get ads for Hawaiian shirts in my Instagram feed.
I've no idea why.
I've no idea why.
AHG (and sometimes U)
- Thread starter AcornHouse
- Start date
zulu
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I think knot!
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
While the top finish on the Mando gets heeled in one area, I got the neck for the uke laid out and rough cut. Without the fingerboard or tuners, etc, it weighs a whopping 109 grams. That's less than 4 oz. by weight. It almost feels like there's nothing there.
But this Spanish cedar planes so beautifully, as I cleaned up the headstock top surface. I pity those who are sensitive to it's smell.
But this Spanish cedar planes so beautifully, as I cleaned up the headstock top surface. I pity those who are sensitive to it's smell.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Dovetail layout, ready to be cut by hand.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Two saw cuts, then start getting the waste out with router plane and paring chisel. I also called my smallest dozuki to help continue the saw cut as I got deeper. The original cuts have to be at an angle to not go into the binding at the bottom. The small saw is able to grab some wood at its tip better.
Definitely this is what separates the men from the boys, Chris.Two saw cuts, then start getting the waste out with router plane and paring chisel. I also called my smallest dozuki to help continue the saw cut as I got deeper. The original cuts have to be at an angle to not go into the binding at the bottom. The small saw is able to grab some wood at its tip better.
Can I still say that?
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
One of the disadvantages of building different types of instruments (because of the commission du jour) is that they frequently have different types of neck joints. Which means you don't have a tried and tested jig* all ready to go and you haven't practiced a particular type of joint in years. Say, a dovetail joint cut by hand.
So you end up needing to add shims during the fitting process, just like it were a neck reset, because you've bottomed out and still have a slight amount of off axis at the bottom.
*I do have a Hi-Tech sanding jig in walnut to get the angle the same.
So you end up needing to add shims during the fitting process, just like it were a neck reset, because you've bottomed out and still have a slight amount of off axis at the bottom.
*I do have a Hi-Tech sanding jig in walnut to get the angle the same.
I was just wondering about your thinking process as to getting the wedge's pressure points to be and stay, exactly, where you want them as the glue dries? And what kind of glue you use? Love the finger grips.One of the disadvantages of building different types of instruments (because of the commission du jour) is that they frequently have different types of neck joints. Which means you don't have a tried and tested jig* all ready to go and you haven't practiced a particular type of joint in years. Say, a dovetail joint cut by hand.
So you end up needing to add shims during the fitting process, just like it were a neck reset, because you've bottomed out and still have a slight amount of off axis at the bottom.
*I do have a Hi-Tech sanding jig in walnut to get the angle the same.
Then, again, my mind and eyes may have my brain focusing on thoughts, totally, unrelated to your intent.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
It's critical to use cauls when gluing veneer. Here, I have thicker strips of maple keeping the veneer flat and in good contact. Just regular Titebond 1 here.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Everything is now lined up where it's supposed to be and tight. Just needs to go down another 2mm. Time to break out the carbon paper and start taking off whispers.
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That's about the prettiest uke I've ever seen.Everything is now lined up where it's supposed to be and tight. Just needs to go down another 2mm. Time to break out the carbon paper and starting taking off whispers.
Totally agree.The bloodwood in the binding and rosette make it really pop (in a super-good way). Not to mention that absolutely perfect koa.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Fully seated now, with all axes lining up, including the most important one, the center line.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Leftover pau ferro from the fingerboard of the electric upright bass build will do fingerboard duty here. Very dense and hard, polishes up to a smooth surface, far less pores than rosewood.
That'll look fabulous, Chris. Are you planning any cool inlaying for this one?
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
At the moment, no. But that may change.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Driving myself crazy laying out the fret slots. Checking them, rechecking, erasing, trying to not aggregate errors...
This was so much easier when LMI was in business and they would plug in any scale length into the CNC machine and cut perfect slots for $9.
This was so much easier when LMI was in business and they would plug in any scale length into the CNC machine and cut perfect slots for $9.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
I taught I taw a tingerboard.
