How about going with a traditional A-hole instead?
That's hand-made for ya. The human touch.during the process differences between the two are inevitable.
I‘ve watched Benedetto do his with a pin router jig, but I’ve had too many bad experiences with routers grabbing chunks of wood they weren’t supposed to (plus, I don’t have a pin router). It may take more time, and never be exactly the same, but I’ll stick with this method for now. I’m sure if I was doing f-holes more regularly I’d have a quicker hand. But I’m sure Stradivarius’ weren’t perfectly matched either.That's hand-made for ya. The human touch.
The word confused.The look good!
They (the F-holes) look good!The word confused.
They (the F-holes) look good!
Or you could bind the F-holes, but that's probably over-the-top for anything in the mandolin family.adding some fish glue to those edges so they don't show from outside the box.
And would require enlarging the holes to compensate for the extra thickness.Or you could bind the F-holes, but that's probably over-the-top for anything in the mandolin family.
No, your eyes are good. The bass side is at a sharper angle than the treble. Very much a mando thing. If I were batch building I’d try one symmetrical to see what difference, in any, can be heard. My biggest concern was to make sure they cross under where the ends of the bridge will be.I can't tell for sure from the photo - are the braces parallel or is the bass-side brace offset?
And, to further muddy the waters, f-hole mandos can also be x-braced (all (most?) oval/round hole ones are x-braced). And those are symmetrical.My Artist Award has an offset bass brace so maybe it's universal to any acoustic archtop type instrument (probably not including the viol/violin family). My electric archtops (at least the ones I've checked) have symmetrical (parallel) bracing.