Bought an OM240CE

swiveltung

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I guess you might call this a review on the import OM240CE. My old Westerly R.I. F4CE needs frets and I haven't decided what to do yet. . My original intent was to get a short scale like a Taylor Mini as I'm old. I didn't bond with the Mini much though, so I bought a modern import Guild Westerly OM240CE. There are some mixed reviews on these modern import Westerly Guilds and I realize nobody here on LTG is coveting one. But, I bonded with this almost immediately. That seems to be my path with Guild acoustics. It just sounds better and plays easier than anything else I tried in the $300-$1300 range. (Taylor, Yamaha, Ibanez)
The thing is... it's like the modern version of the vintage Guild F4CE I have... Crazy really ...but fretting will take 10 weeks and is expensive ($400-$1000). So maybe this guitar is a fill in until I either get the F4CE refretted or do it myself.
I received the guitar.

-There are no finish blemishes at all, the strings are centered on the fretboard, the nut slots were at about the right height right down close. No nut adjustment required as far as height goes.
-The electronics are in the soundhole, so just tone and volume. Thats all I need, but I did realize one thing... you cant plug the sound hole to avoid feedback on stage! So that's a consideration I missed. We'll see how that works out.
-It's a VERY comfortable acoustic electric, like my old F4CE.

PROBLEM: The strings were way to low to the frets. Surprisingly, it still seemed to play decent down there. The high E measured .025-.030 off the frets at about fret 12-15. Of course there is no adjustment other than using a taller bridge or a shim. I had to get the cheap strings off of it anyway, (they looked like copper not bronze...?) so I found an older acoustic bridge insert off my F4CE that fit perfectly. I had to sand it down a bit for height, but other than that the intonation was identical to the factory insert. That worked out very well.

While I had the strings off, I worked on the fret ends a bit filing the little sharp corners smooth/rounded. I pretty much expected to do that on a new inexpensive guitar.

Overall it seems like a keeper and a good guitar for the $. I can tell it's long scale though, but I can live with that as it's a very 'easy on the hands' guitar otherwise. And the tone with the long scale always seems better to me on the low strings. The neck is medium C, not too thin. The low action is amost like an electric. Everything rings true no buzzing etc.
 

GGJaguar

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Glad you found a guitar you bonded with! Doesn't matter where it's made as long as you're happy and it inspires you to play.
 

portsider

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-The electronics are in the soundhole, so just tone and volume. Thats all I need, but I did realize one thing... you cant plug the sound hole to avoid feedback on stage! So that's a consideration I missed. We'll see how that works out.
-It's a VERY comfortable acoustic electric, like my old F4CE.
I set my D2612CE the way I like it and then put in a sound hole cover. That works for practice in a controlled environment, but I guess I could run into a room where it's a problem. So far it's been fine.
 

7GuildsandanSG

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I guess you might call this a review on the import OM240CE. My old Westerly R.I. F4CE needs frets and I haven't decided what to do yet. . My original intent was to get a short scale like a Taylor Mini as I'm old. I didn't bond with the Mini much though, so I bought a modern import Guild Westerly OM240CE. There are some mixed reviews on these modern import Westerly Guilds and I realize nobody here on LTG is coveting one. But, I bonded with this almost immediately. That seems to be my path with Guild acoustics. It just sounds better and plays easier than anything else I tried in the $300-$1300 range. (Taylor, Yamaha, Ibanez)
The thing is... it's like the modern version of the vintage Guild F4CE I have... Crazy really ...but fretting will take 10 weeks and is expensive ($400-$1000). So maybe this guitar is a fill in until I either get the F4CE refretted or do it myself.
I received the guitar.

-There are no finish blemishes at all, the strings are centered on the fretboard, the nut slots were at about the right height right down close. No nut adjustment required as far as height goes.
-The electronics are in the soundhole, so just tone and volume. Thats all I need, but I did realize one thing... you cant plug the sound hole to avoid feedback on stage! So that's a consideration I missed. We'll see how that works out.
-It's a VERY comfortable acoustic electric, like my old F4CE.

PROBLEM: The strings were way to low to the frets. Surprisingly, it still seemed to play decent down there. The high E measured .025-.030 off the frets at about fret 12-15. Of course there is no adjustment other than using a taller bridge or a shim. I had to get the cheap strings off of it anyway, (they looked like copper not bronze...?) so I found an older acoustic bridge insert off my F4CE that fit perfectly. I had to sand it down a bit for height, but other than that the intonation was identical to the factory insert. That worked out very well.

While I had the strings off, I worked on the fret ends a bit filing the little sharp corners smooth/rounded. I pretty much expected to do that on a new inexpensive guitar.

Overall it seems like a keeper and a good guitar for the $. I can tell it's long scale though, but I can live with that as it's a very 'easy on the hands' guitar otherwise. And the tone with the long scale always seems better to me on the low strings. The neck is medium C, not too thin. The low action is amost like an electric. Everything rings true no buzzing etc.
Congrats! Photos?
 

twocorgis

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Most folks here know that I'm not a fan of the Asian rim Guild acoustics, but after @jeffcoop bought an OM240E snd thought it was a good value, I took a flyer on a b-stock one from ProAudioStar for a ridiculously cheap price, and after a minor setup, I really like it! I think it's the achback and super thin finish that make it sound so good, and it has a great neck as well.

Good luck with yours!
 

richardp69

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Although I prefer my guitars to be made in the USA, I got over having that as a mandatory requirement long ago. Between Blueridge, Recording King, Eastman, Epi Masterbilt and others I've found some superb import guitars at great prices.

And let's not forget some of these Guilds as well. My F 250 CE is a superb instrument purchased at an insanely low price.
 

swiveltung

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Congrats! Photos?
I tend to like the non gloss finish.
001.JPG002 (4).JPG004 (5).JPG003.JPG
 

Nuuska

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Having one about 4 years now - I really like it - and it is really fantastic bang for the buck in my opinion.
As you well know - I do have some higher ranked guitars, too.
 

Cougar

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There are some mixed reviews on these modern import Westerly Guilds and I realize nobody here on LTG is coveting one. But, I bonded with this almost immediately....
That's great! I'm also a recent fan of a Guild import -- a GAD D125-12, happy to slip it into the rotation with its more expensive cousins.
 

Nuuska

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btw - those pictures all qualify to Rudi's gallery 😂
 

swiveltung

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Well, I played it a bit last night at a duo gig. I like it BUT... there is a problem. The high E string is nearly dead when the guitar is plugged into an amp. It's a normal E string when the guitar is played acoustically.. in other words it's not just the normal low volume high E string issue most guitars have. It's almost not there at all amplified.
UGH. Now I'm going to have to sort that out. I suppose I'll end up replacing the piezo under bridge pickup. I did notice the other day this one is the braided type and the end of it appears to be soldered. I wonder if that's normal? I haven't noticed solder on any others I have, but heck, I haven't looked often!?
 

jeffcoop

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Well, I played it a bit last night at a duo gig. I like it BUT... there is a problem. The high E string is nearly dead when the guitar is plugged into an amp. It's a normal E string when the guitar is played acoustically.. in other words it's not just the normal low volume high E string issue most guitars have. It's almost not there at all amplified.
UGH. Now I'm going to have to sort that out. I suppose I'll end up replacing the piezo under bridge pickup. I did notice the other day this one is the braided type and the end of it appears to be soldered. I wonder if that's normal? I haven't noticed solder on any others I have, but heck, I haven't looked often!?
This is going to sound silly, but did you take a look at the pickup and battery? I had a similar problem when I took my OM240E to its first open mic: I got no amplified sound from the G, B, and high E strings. The lower strings sounded fine, but obviously missing half the strings was not good. I feared the pickup was faulty. But yesterday, an experienced repairman/luthier helped me with a mass restringing of about 10 of my guitars. I asked him to take a look inside the OM240E, and he discovered that there was some cellophane that was affecting the battery's connection. It works fine now. I hope your situation is as easily fixed.

As Sandy noted above, I've really enjoyed the OM240E since I acquired it this summer. It gave me something to play (happily) during a ten-dat trip to Vermont this summer, and it's been my office guitar since my return. No, it's not at the level of my Tacoma F30. But it's crisp, clear, balanced, and surprisingly loud. And there are no USA-made F30s at the moment anyway.
 

swiveltung

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I'll check that, but how would a battery problem just deaden part of the strings? I'm going to open the bridge up again and recheck the flatness of the bridge insert and inspect that Piezo pickup. I may have an old, better Fishman piezo pickup laying around here.
 

jeffcoop

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The cellophane theory didn't make much sense to me, I'll admit, but in practice he turned out to be right.

In any event, I hope that you get it figured out and that it's no big deal. The built-in piezo is surprisingly good given the cost of the guitar, but it's still a cheap pickup, and if you have something better lying around it's worth a try.
 

Nuuska

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A tiny shim under e-string might adda pressure so the balance is ok - not much to loose if you try that.
 

Boneman

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Glad you found a guitar you bonded with! Doesn't matter where it's made as long as you're happy and it inspires you to play.
Agreed, and gotta say Congrats and HNGD!
 

kostask

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While you have the saddle off of the bridge, you may want to verify that the floor of the saddle slot is flat as well. Any variation in the floor's flatness may cause variation in the pressure that the saddle is putting on the transducer.
 

swiveltung

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While you have the saddle off of the bridge, you may want to verify that the floor of the saddle slot is flat as well. Any variation in the floor's flatness may cause variation in the pressure that the saddle is putting on the transducer.
Good point, and I think I need to look at that. When I set up the nut, I noticed the nut slot was not real cleanly done in the bottom.

The other person in my duo did an iPhone video of one song I did the other night. From that I have noticed that the high E isn't as dead as I thought it was. A little soft though.

Some people on line say 'always play an acoustic through an acoustic amp or PA'. I often use a small tube amp. The other night I was using a Princeton Reverb. Anyone think there is any validity to that?
 

Nuuska

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In my earlier post I meant the tiny shim under e-string being under saddle or under piezo - whichever produces better result.
 
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