CV-2C...my review.

cuthbert

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The contemporary series is an argument that was widely debated on this board and in general among Guild fans and became a sort of controversial subject, mainly due to the notorious "new technology" employed in this line of instruments (graphite reinforcement rods and block), the problems that some owners experienced with this bolt on configuration and the mysterious discontinuation of the entire line by Fender following the closure of the Tacoma plant for reasons that Fender never completely explained (at least in my knowledge).

After a long search on ebay I found a instrument of this series that appealed my tastes in matter of acoustic guitars, the Cv-2C, that met my requirements: grand auditorium size, cutaway, flame maple sides and back, ebony fingerboard and bridge, and as much binding as possible (I like binding!), the latter point was a rarity in the Contemporary series, that was modeled after the last trends of the guitar market, that required for a "modern" instrument a minimalistic look, dismissing ornations like binding, fancy position makers on the fingerboard and pickguards.

I bought the guitar online by maximumvalue products (not affiliated, just a satisfied customer) and althought purchasing an acoustic instrument abroad is always a risk, the guitar arrived sound and sage, mainly the package was very professionally made (box, bubblewraps, paper support for the headstock, loosen strings...) and a good rate for international dealers (of course, USPS and SDA made a good job, unlike other private companies we have read on this board) made the shipment be a non issue.

The first thing that I noticed after unpacking was the case, as we know, the TKL cases used by Guild and customized with their logo are pretty nice: archtop, faux leather and burgundy linining, like a presentation box for a jewel, the case says much of what is contained. And my expectations weren't disappointed when I open it.




The guitar came in natural finish, I'd have liked more a sunburst example, but in blonde it's possible to appreciate more the quality of the woods and of the nitro.



In this instrument, the choice of the woods was clearly the top and the people who finished it in nitro definitely knew what they were doing: it is very difficult to hide any flaws in this case and this guitar doesn't look a second, or a defective instrument, at all: the top is made from a bookmatched table of red spruce, with a lovely striped and wide grain, extremely eye catching...



...but the most flashing part of the instrument are the sides and the back: the maple used is one of the most flamed wood I've ever seen,with a very regular and wide pattern, and the 3D effect of the figure almost hypnotic. If wood of this type was used for the top of a Les Paul, that instrument would have been sold for thousand of dollars.



The neck is obtained by a single piece of mahogany, with tight grain and a natural auburn colour, the peghead veneer is relatively thick and it's a nice slab of madagascar rosewood, with nice chocolate stripes running vertically. The ebony of the fingerboard looked nice from the case, but after being oiled it become gorgeous, probably one of the best quality AAA grade around. As choice of wood, I don't think anybody can complain, the guitar seemed to be designed as a top notch instrument.



The dots of the fingerboard are 2 mm abalone, according to the fashion I mentioned above, look very minimalistic and very Larriveè, personally I'd have liked regular size, also because the quality of the abalone matches the ebony of the fingerboard, and I prefer the traditional Guild look, but it's a contemporary series, isn't it? The new style "art decò" shield and logo are mother of pearl, good quality too,but maybe abalone would have been a more coherent choice.Somebody hates them, I personally like the new shield but to me the old style log doesn't match this modernistist look. The binding around the fingerboard is striped ivoroid, equal to the one used in my Jackson, very nice colour and very well cut. The one on the body is multilayered, using the outer stripe of the same binding on the fingeboard, and adding three thinner red, ivory and black lines. Again, a very modern choice, but of good effect. The decoration of the rosette is related with this binding, consisting in two rings of rosewood (the same used on the headstock, it seems) divided by a layer of the same ivorodi binding, and surrounded by the thinner red-ivory-black. All these choices very Larriveè/Lakewood/Avalon style, again.



The bridge retains the traditional Guild shape but unlike all the other contemporary series, including the Willy Porter, is made of ebony and not rosewood, and supports the compensated bone saddle and the pins, made of bone alike the nut.

The hardware consists in the tuners, chromed open back Gotoh series 700, the most popular choice in this industry at the moment (almost all Martins and Guilds use them), and the D-tar piezo system at the bottom. The guitar came with an optional tortoise pickguard that I didn't decide to install yet, the key for the case and with a set of fresh D'addario phosphor-bronze strings, the only thing I missed was the allen wrench to set the truss rod, that seems smaller than the one of the les Paul. Fortunately the neck looked straight so I didn't need the wrence, the seller said that the instrument was inspected by a luthier, and he didn't forgot to se the truss rod, it seems.

That's all for the way the instrument looks, taking it from the case and playing I noticed that the action was a little too high for my standard (I play very low) so I started to work on the bridge sanding it. In the end the action of the upper register while in the lower is very low, a thin line above buzzing, at least with this set of strings that seems to be .12, a little too heavy for my habits. Anyway, the compromise is good and now the guitar works well on all the frets. The sound of the phosphor bronze strings seems to match perfectly the character of this guitar, a little on the bright side but not too much, the final risult is a balanced tone with clear distinction of the notes, although the guitas seems to require to be played more to reach its peak of resonance and capability.

The shape of the neck is a nice and full C, not too thin but definitely not "baseball", the size of the nut is 45 mm (1 3/4 inches) and gives you the idea that this guitar was designed for fingerpicking, again in the fashion of the new cuncurrents' offers of a guitar suitable for this style. Personally I have to get used to this measure: the neck results very wide for a player who comes from 42 or 43 mm, but I guess I have to get used.

Soundwise, the guitar has a mellow tone you won't expect from a maple/flamed maple, and seems that requires a little time to "grow up", especially from a volume point of view: this guitar, at the moment is not a "loud Guild", but the single notes ring, sustain is good and intonation above the 12th fret very good. The set up is a litle stiff for a soloist like me, as recorded with the .12 bending and vibrato are difficult to execute. I think I'll switch to 0.10 or 0.11 soon and reset in order to fully exploit the potential of the instrument.

About the concerns of the neck block and the problems that many experienced in the past, all I can say is that at the moment it doesn't seem there is any structural problem, yes, the action of the high fret is very different from the lower register (unde the 9th fret)...this may indicate that the neck angle is a little under specs, but so far, nothing moved, and I'd like to check with other owner if it's true that the neck should be re-set. So far, everything is ok though.



In conclusion, I can say that the guitar is a real beauty and probably a keeper (unless I get one in sunburst), and looks very indicated for fingerpickers, more than for plectrum players like me, what I like more is the quality of the instrument and what I didn't like that much were the microdots and the open back gotoh, that I'm thinking to replace, but in any case, if the guitar remains without structural issues, it's one of the best guitars available today and at the price they're going around, due to their discontinued models printed "USED", well worth the risk.
 

zplay

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Very nice review, Cuth!
And I'm happy that your first impressions are positive, as well.

I'd agree that the contemp models are fingerstyle friendly with the 45 mm/1 3/4" nuts, though I find the string-spacing at the saddle to be more akin to that on traditional models and, in so all-considered, more of a compromise between a fingerstyle and flatpicker. Also agree that the feel is a bit stiff for the fretting hand, but that it also allows for a pretty aggressive picking hand. In fact, I think that it wants to be played little harder to really bring out that volume, especially early on.
 

capnjuan

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cuthbert said:
...About the concerns of the neck block and the problems that many experienced in the past, all I can say is that at the moment it doesn't seem there is any structural problem, yes, the action of the high fret is very different from the lower register (unde the 9th fret)...this may indicate that the neck angle is a little under specs, but so far, nothing moved, and I'd like to check with other owner if it's true that the neck should be re-set.
Jeff said:
Brady called me today, the neck on my CO1 isn't coming off clean, easy & simple, didn't come apart like he expected. Removed the bolts & she remains stuck fast. Brady says he's never experienced this problem on other bolt on necks & wants to quit now rather than bugger my guitar experimenting on the unknown. The other CO/CV neck thread
Hi cuthbert: As I understand Jeff's comments, the problem with the neck block system is with re-setting the neck; the neck isn't easily disconnected from the body of the guitar. Congratulations on your new guitar! CJ
 

cuthbert

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Scratch said:
What was the sales price?

I got it for 1000$ including shipping to Europe, that would make approximately 740 euro. Then, the customs kindly charged me 173 euros of taxes...still, at least for us it's a bargain, today I went to visit my trusted luthier to get a truss cover, polish, cloth and a set of new strings and he said she looks like a 2000 euro instrument.

Here there's the pic of the patent for the guest area:



More pics to come.
 

West R Lee

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Very nice and detailed review Cuthbert, I'm so glad it worked out for you and hope she gives you decades of enjoyment. A beautiful guitar indeed.

West
 

Scratch

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Appears a screaming deal to me, Alex. I'll have much more than that in mine by the time it is right. Congrats...
 

cuthbert

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sitka_spruce said:
Great review, Cuthy! There's no such pass-time than making reviews. :D
BTW: You're not experiencing any problem with neck-relief or fretboard extension being beyond limits of adjustment? Most Contemporaries have, including my WP, as mentioned in my review from 1.5y ago or so.

Neck relief? Well, the guitar is just arrived, so I think it's too early to say, I'm still worried, anyway today I went to my luthier and got the allen key for the truss rod, and I tried to move it...the guitar was already spot on on this side, lowering the tension the action at the first frets increased and increasing it I started to hear some buzz, so I moved it more or less to the original position. What surprised me was the SMOOTHNESS of the truss rod, you didn't have to give the famous peak torque at the beginning to move it.

As I mentioned in the review, the action above teh 12th fret was too high and I had to work on the saddle, now it's pretty low, but the action is relatively good, not as good as my Ovations, but good enough. I suspect that the angle of the fretboard extension is lower, although my luthier told me that there is. Anyway, you cannot adjust the fretboard extension with the truss rod, it just work untilt he 12th fret, this my experience with ANY guitar. The only way to decrease the action above the 14th fret is to work on the bridge, at the moment I don't want to lower it more, because the angle of the strings when they go into the pins is already reduced, if it's necessary to lower it I'll have to work on the ebony of the proper bridge and the tapering of the pins, in short, a hard job.

Out of curiosity, which is your action in the higher register?
 

cuthbert

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West R Lee said:
Very nice and detailed review Cuthbert, I'm so glad it worked out for you and hope she gives you decades of enjoyment. A beautiful guitar indeed.

West

Thank you, but honestly I always wished to try to find out one in sunburst, like the beautiful D-55 in your avatar, I think that Guilds in sunburst are really nice, and the colours used on the contemporary series were among the best, for instance, this one is breathtaking:

p1_ub5zxtcid_so.jpg


Now, I have to decide if to install the pickguard or not, I think that the instrument was meant to be without one, according to today's trend of pickguardless guitars or with trasparent guard, but on the other side I think that it was a part of the Guild heritage...mmm...

I'm also considering to get rid of the open back gotohs and install a set of Grover Imperials, I always loved that machine head and I've seen that in some pictures of the members of this board they look good with the Guild headstock.

Any opinion about it?
 

West R Lee

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cuthbert said:
West R Lee said:
Very nice and detailed review Cuthbert, I'm so glad it worked out for you and hope she gives you decades of enjoyment. A beautiful guitar indeed.

West

Thank you, but honestly I always wished to try to find out one in sunburst, like the beautiful D-55 in your avatar, I think that Guilds in sunburst are really nice, and the colours used on the contemporary series were among the best, for instance, this one is breathtaking:

p1_ub5zxtcid_so.jpg


Now, I have to decide if to install the pickguard or not, I think that the instrument was meant to be without one, according to today's trend of pickguardless guitars or with trasparent guard, but on the other side I think that it was a part of the Guild heritage...mmm...

I'm also considering to get rid of the open back gotohs and install a set of Grover Imperials, I always loved that machine head and I've seen that in some pictures of the members of this board they look good with the Guild headstock.

Any opinion about it?

Well thank you sir, she is a beaut, and I thank Graham for that one. I just bought my second sunburst guitar, she'll be here this week, I'll post some shots for you. Pretty similar to what you've got there. A maple cutaway, but a thin body electric acoustic. Not sure why I bought it yet, other than it's a prototype "Classic" according to Mr. Moust. It's the prototype of the "Excellence". We'll see, I've never been an electric guy.

And yours is even more gorgeous now that you've posted detailed pictures....beautiful maple!

West
 

zplay

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cuthbert said:
sitka_spruce said:
Great review, Cuthy! There's no such pass-time than making reviews. :D
BTW: You're not experiencing any problem with neck-relief or fretboard extension being beyond limits of adjustment? Most Contemporaries have, including my WP, as mentioned in my review from 1.5y ago or so.

Neck relief? Well, the guitar is just arrived, so I think it's too early to say, I'm still worried, anyway today I went to my luthier and got the allen key for the truss rod, and I tried to move it...the guitar was already spot on on this side, lowering the tension the action at the first frets increased and increasing it I started to hear some buzz, so I moved it more or less to the original position. What surprised me was the SMOOTHNESS of the truss rod, you didn't have to give the famous peak torque at the beginning to move it.

As I mentioned in the review, the action above teh 12th fret was too high and I had to work on the saddle, now it's pretty low, but the action is relatively good, not as good as my Ovations, but good enough. I suspect that the angle of the fretboard extension is lower, although my luthier told me that there is. Anyway, you cannot adjust the fretboard extension with the truss rod, it just work untilt he 12th fret, this my experience with ANY guitar. The only way to decrease the action above the 14th fret is to work on the bridge, at the moment I don't want to lower it more, because the angle of the strings when they go into the pins is already reduced, if it's necessary to lower it I'll have to work on the ebony of the proper bridge and the tapering of the pins, in short, a hard job.

Out of curiosity, which is your action in the higher register?

What Sitka is referring to with the fretboard extention is something you will have to watch for over time. If you sight down the fretboard from the headstock toward the soundhole, you might observe a slight or moderate upward sloping or hinging of the fretboard beyond the 14th fret body join, where it does not stay level with the rest of the fretboard out toward the headstock. it's independent of the neck relief, which is controlled by the truss rod.
(By the way, the action of the truss rod IS the smoothest I've ever felt. Takes almost no effort.) I did not have this on my guitar when I first bought it; in my case, it developed over time. However, I did find that tightening of the pair of bolts on the underside of fretboard in the graphite neck support assembly(accessed through the soundhole) did straighten the fretboard extention to some degree.

As to the action up the neck, I do find that there's a limit to how much i can modify it, such that I can't quite get it to where I have it on other guitars. On the other hand the neck shape itself is very comfortable up there. I do think that the neck angle is not optimal to begin with and also a bit of a forward tilt of the bridge(related to bellying of lower soundboard?) adds to the need to reduce the saddle height considerably.
 

sitka_spruce

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cuthbert said:
sitka_spruce said:
Great review, Cuthy! There's no such pass-time than making reviews. :D
BTW: You're not experiencing any problem with neck-relief or fretboard extension being beyond limits of adjustment? Most Contemporaries have, including my WP, as mentioned in my review from 1.5y ago or so.

Neck relief? Well, the guitar is just arrived, so I think it's too early to say, I'm still worried, anyway today I went to my luthier and got the allen key for the truss rod, and I tried to move it...the guitar was already spot on on this side, lowering the tension the action at the first frets increased and increasing it I started to hear some buzz, so I moved it more or less to the original position. What surprised me was the SMOOTHNESS of the truss rod, you didn't have to give the famous peak torque at the beginning to move it.

As I mentioned in the review, the action above teh 12th fret was too high and I had to work on the saddle, now it's pretty low, but the action is relatively good, not as good as my Ovations, but good enough. I suspect that the angle of the fretboard extension is lower, although my luthier told me that there is. Anyway, you cannot adjust the fretboard extension with the truss rod, it just work untilt he 12th fret, this my experience with ANY guitar. The only way to decrease the action above the 14th fret is to work on the bridge, at the moment I don't want to lower it more, because the angle of the strings when they go into the pins is already reduced, if it's necessary to lower it I'll have to work on the ebony of the proper bridge and the tapering of the pins, in short, a hard job.

Out of curiosity, which is your action in the higher register?
Check out my review for a reference if you like to: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6793&p=74326&hilit=willy+porter+review#p74326

No the extension can't be adjusted by the trussrod or other as such but has to be sanded into angle - though tightening it could have lowered the action here and change the angle of strings slightly. Lately though the buzz I experienced at this portion is gone, but that's not to say there's been a miracle and everything is fine now. Could just be the season of year. The trussrod I believe is tightened as far as it goes, but still there's a pretty high action (haven't measured it though) where the neck meets the body. The neck as such is pretty straight though - well, all the way to the extension.

On mine nothing has been changed or altered from when I got her. I thought I'd leave her for a luthier to give her a setup in due course, but that setup will probably take a lot of time and money, so I'm basically waiting to build up funds for another instrument AND the setup for the WP. Wouldn't be too surprised if it's already time for a neck reset, to be honest. Then I can't be sure that next instrument will be problem free in this area as well.

I'll measure the action at the 12th and will get back to you.
 

cuthbert

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Stika, I'm familiar with your review because I studied the literature on the net about the contemporary series and that was a remarkable document! ;)

For the action, I think we had the same problem:above the 12th fret the instrument was hard to play. The choices are two: lowering the strings or raising the fingerboard. The latter means to reset the neck, a difficult operation that I cannot perform here, while I could lower the strings working on the saddle. I sanded it quite a lot, and now it looks like:



On the other side, the action at the 21st fret is something like 2.15 mm, not still what I wanted but much better than many acoustic guitars.

 

cuthbert

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West R Lee said:
Well thank you sir, she is a beaut, and I thank Graham for that one. I just bought my second sunburst guitar, she'll be here this week, I'll post some shots for you. Pretty similar to what you've got there. A maple cutaway, but a thin body electric acoustic. Not sure why I bought it yet, other than it's a prototype "Classic" according to Mr. Moust. It's the prototype of the "Excellence". We'll see, I've never been an electric guy.

And yours is even more gorgeous now that you've posted detailed pictures....beautiful maple!

West

Is it the prototype with the F serial number that was discussed on this board?I wanted to take it, but it was a thinline, while I was looking for a full size acoustic guitar, yet, the maple neck was beautiful. To be honest, I thought to refinish the guitar in antique burst, but I don't know if it would be considered an improvement or a crime...anyway today I installed the optional pickguard, the instrument looks more guildish with this accessory, what I really don't like are the open tuners, I think that I'll swap them for the Imperials, most definitely.




Here there's the guitar with the pickguard, slightly different shape than the one on the traditional F-47.
 

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Chazmo said:
Congrats, Cuthbert. Keep us posted!

If I'm able to finish a solution to the enigma of the patent block neck I'll share with the other members of this board, Chazmo, I recall you didn't like the contemporary series, mainly because they didn't like guildish...so I'd like to know your opinion about the guitar with the pickguard, from a visual point of view, do you consider this accessory important for the image of this brand along with the the shape of the headstock and the bridge?
 
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