Evaluating Condition Older Acoustic

[ReevesRd]

What do you look for when buying a used acoustic?

Overall condition: looking for wood damage, knocks, warping, and cracks ...
Checking for cracks around the sound hole, pickguard, and the neck at the body.
Check the bridge for lifting. Check saddle and nut.
Neck condition: sighting down the neck to make sure that it's straight. Checking heal connection and fret wear.
Playing condition: Listen to the sound of each string all the way up the neck.
Tuning Pegs: Ensure that the tuning pegs work correctly. No rust ...
Case: Check latches, hinges, and handle.

These are the things that I can think of as of now. Is there anything that you would add or advise on?
What are some of the major problems that you have come across buying older acoustics?

 

[SFIV1967]

- String height at 12th fret (max 6/64" for E and 4-5/64" for e)



- neck angle (straightedge meets bridge)






- height of strings at bridge over sound board (ideal is about 0.5")



This is a great article:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/NeckAngle/neckangle.html

Ralf

 

[davismanLV]

What Ralf ^^^ said!!

 

[Christopher Cozad]

Once I can verify the truss rod cover is properly oriented...

...then I check the stickers on the case to see where this instrument has been!

 

[ReevesRd]

check the stickers on the case

Yes! Stickers on the case. I must add this!

 

[Boneman]

That is solid advice, and great for when you can get your hands on it to inspect up close, but I suppose all that goes out the window in the modern age of online marketplaces. Generally people are honest and you can request photo evidence of all those checklists if you are wanting a particular item, but who knows what some sellers might provide you. And you won’t know what it’s real condition is until it shows up at your door, then what if it sucks?. Of course you could choose not to go that route entirely and only buy in person, if one is overly worried.

 

[ReevesRd]

online marketplaces

I have my rules about online purchases. I'm more concerned about when I get my hands on the guitar. Thanks.

 

[ReevesRd]

(straightedge meets bridge)

Yeah, I need to buy a straightedge.

 

[Guildedagain]

Once I can verify the truss rod cover is properly oriented...

...then I check the stickers on the case to where this instrument has been!

Still looking D28 over for TRC ;[]

 

[davismanLV]

Once I can verify the truss rod cover is properly oriented...

...then I check the stickers on the case to where this instrument has been!

So, Christopher, is a well travelled guitar going to automatically sound better? Or is it just wear and tear on the case?

 

[Guildedagain]

Yeah, I need to buy a straightedge.

Right here, if you can find one today.

Such a lovely thing to have, if you're any kind of a tool wh*re, and/or you like measuring things, in this case neck angle.

Bought this when I got my F30, maybe I'd never really cared about neck angle before.

 

[Christopher Cozad]

So, Christopher, is a well travelled guitar going to automatically sound better? Or is it just wear and tear on the case?

Great point, Tom. All things considered, that well-traveled guitar probably sounds worse for the wear, but Oh the stories it tells!

 

[Christopher Cozad]

Yeah, I need to buy a straightedge.

No member of this forum should be without one.

(Say, what about some clever person here come up with an LTG-branded/printed straightedge? I'll pre-commit to purchasing one...)

 

[GGJaguar]

an LTG-branded/printed straightedge

The LTG Straightedge of Truth!

 

[Br1ck]

My advise on a guitar of 70 vintage, plus or minus, is to buy at a price you are prepared to go another thousand or so on. EVERYTHING is bound to be marginal at this point. Or you can buy a guitar like my D 35 that has been overhauled. The post overhauled guitar will be instant gratification. Yes, the guitar could remain marginal for years, but why would you want a low saddle and so so frets? Buy an old guitar for the wood, not the economy. Just like an old boat.

Check that the truss rod works.

 

[ReevesRd]

Well. I was hoping to go check out a D-35 about an hour away. Guy had it listed for $1200 for five months. He removed the listing and relisted it at $650. I contacted him to buy the guitar, and he says I'll let you know. Now he's removed the listing again.

My guess is it will be relisted at a higher price. It wasn't meant to be.

And the search continues.

 

[E-Type]

I just picked up a 1970 D-25. The action at the low E is 0.080" and the straight edge runs right to the front corner on the bridge. However, the saddle is pretty short and the low E is just 0.325 above the top (and the D string is 0.375" above (((Edit, it is actually 0.35" above at the D string)))). The bridge itself is only 0.25" tall. Were they ever made that short? My 1974 D-25 bridge is only 0.3125", so not that much taller.

 

[HeyMikey]

The combined height of the bridge and saddle ideally should be close to 1/2 inch, and 3/8 minimum. If the bridge itself is too low it may have been shaved. See the frets.com link referenced above.

 

[geoguy]

Also, if you post a photo or two, folks who are familiar with what Guild bridges look like can give you feedback re: whether it is likely to have been shaved or sanded down.

0.08 inches = 5/64 inch action at the low E string, so your guitar could possibly be fitted with a slightly taller saddle. It could still have very reasonable action, and possibly improved tone with a taller saddle.

 

[E-Type]

So here is the bridge. The top is decidedly angled towards the back compared to my ‘74 bridge.