Help: Putting a Bigsby on a SF II

[tbags4ever]

I've had a Starfire II with the harp tailpiece and wood bridge for around ten years now. I want to turn it into more of a rockin' piece than a jazz piece. I started with a metal, tune-o-matic type bridge, and now I want to add a Bigsby. However, I am not 100% certain which model to use. I believe I have enough arch on the piece to use the single bar models like the B3 or the B11. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Also, I had to have the neck reset because it started to come undone. Anyone else had this issue with their Starfires?

 

[Brad Little]

Contact Stew-Mac, they can probably help you pick the right one.
Brad

 

[Walter Broes]

A B6 would look best, and bring the handle closer to where you need it, but you might have to file the hinge down a little bit, most B6 Bigsbies come with a hinge that's too long for the depth of a Starfire.

You could look for one of these : http://www.premierguitar.com/Handler.ashx?Item_ID=2B63F8E0-AD16-4BC9-A47A-37E8ABE10910&type=large, which is a Bigsby branded B6 with a "Gretsch hinge", that would wouldn't be too long.

The Guild branded version of a B6 would be perfect for your guitar, but they haven't been made for a while, and are getting harder to find, and more expensive.

The bridge height on your guitar looks more than tall enough for a B6 indeed - you really don't need the double roller B7/B12 type.

 

[avagadro]

why not go to the source. I have an old Silvertone 1446 that no longer has a bigsby, I replaced it with a trapeze many years ago. now I look at it and think maybe I should put a bigsby back on it, this time adding a roller bridge. I emailed bigsby today looking for some info. how did you like the bridge change? I have a T100 with a wooden bridge and remember reading about the bridge on the SFIII in a review. one solid piece of aluminum, compensated. the review said it sounded like a good older Les Paul. I'm not sure if that is really possible but it spurred my interest. I checked into buying one of the aluminum bridges but the price was very high, something like $170 dollars. too bad, a quick bridge change to get some different tone seems quite appealing.

 

[tbags4ever]

I like the bridge and the sound, although I am still trying to fine tune it with my Bogner Alchemist amp. I can't use just the neck pickup too much, the gain just gets too muddy. I saw after I bought the tune o matic bridge that Guild used the all aluminum bridge with the Bigsby's, but I have also seen the tune o matics with Bigsbys on them. I think I'll just give it a try. If I don't have to drill any holes, I won't lose out, is how I see it.

 

[Walter Broes]

I think I'll just give it a try. If I don't have to drill any holes, I won't lose out, is how I see it.

Chances are 99.9% you will have to drill new holes for any kind of Bigsby installation, I can tell you that much.

 

[capnjuan]

... Also, I had to have the neck reset because it started to come undone. Anyone else had this issue with their Starfires?

Hi and welcome to LTG. Can't be completely sure but I think yours is the first time anybody has said anything about having trouble with a re-issue SF neck. Good luck with it!

 

[tbags4ever]

... Also, I had to have the neck reset because it started to come undone. Anyone else had this issue with their Starfires?

Hi and welcome to LTG. Can't be completely sure but I think yours is the first time anybody has said anything about having trouble with a re-issue SF neck. Good luck with it!

I let it sit for a long time. I didn't play it for literally 7-8 years because I wasn't playing jazz anymore. I think it just got cold and dry in the Wisconsin winters. It was a hairline separation in the neck joint, but was enough to ruin the action on the upper frets.

 

[tbags4ever]

I think I'll just give it a try. If I don't have to drill any holes, I won't lose out, is how I see it.

Chances are 99.9% you will have to drill new holes for any kind of Bigsby installation, I can tell you that much.

Yeah, I guess I misspoke, but the only holes I would have to drill would be right around the strap mount, and if I went back to the harp tailpiece, that would cover anything I would drill.

 

[capnjuan]

... I let it sit for a long time. I didn't play it for literally 7-8 years because I wasn't playing jazz anymore. I think it just got cold and dry in the Wisconsin winters. It was a hairline separation in the neck joint, but was enough to ruin the action on the upper frets.

Ugh ...

I live in FL where a 'dry' day is about 65% RH. As are all the other members here, you're invited to ship your fine Guilds (at your expense) to balmy Fl ... only kidding ... sort of :wink: Good luck with your guitar; I hope you get it to your liking.

 

[killdeer43]

tbags,
I won't even pretend to know enough to help out with your Bigsby dilemma, etc., but I will say that you have one gorgeous guitar there, and the photo layout is nicely done to bring out just how good looking it is!
I'm a sucker for eye candy! :wink:

And....welcome to the clubhouse!

Joe

 

[thomj513]

Tbags- Very nice SFII. As others have said, it may be a little work but the addition of the Bigsby is doable. An older Guild/Bigsby would be a "drop-in" replacement since the mounting holes would line-up, a newer Bigsby should be close but may take a bit more effort to get everything just right. Good luck with the mod and keep us posted with pics of the conversion. I have a Cherry Red 1965 SFIII, Hoboken NJ made, with the Guild/Bigsby trem and it does use the compensated aluminum bridge; which is supposed to allow the strings to move back and forth more easily than a wood/bone bridge. The trem adds some weight and you might find the guitar tail heavy; over the years I've gotten used to it. I've just started to play again after a few years of dealing with health issues and the Guild is the only guitar that I've kept all these years. Now I need a good amp for it. How does the Bogner work for you? I work for a company that sells wire and cable items to Bogner so I may be able to work a deal. Anyway, nice quitar and good luck with the mod. TJ.

 

[kakerlak]

The flipside to this is you could sell your SF-II and buy an equivalent SF-III. It might be cheaper than buying a Bigsby and surely cheaper than buying a Guild-branded Bigsby...

 

[tbags4ever]

Tbags- Very nice SFII. As others have said, it may be a little work but the addition of the Bigsby is doable. An older Guild/Bigsby would be a "drop-in" replacement since the mounting holes would line-up, a newer Bigsby should be close but may take a bit more effort to get everything just right. Good luck with the mod and keep us posted with pics of the conversion. I have a Cherry Red 1965 SFIII, Hoboken NJ made, with the Guild/Bigsby trem and it does use the compensated aluminum bridge; which is supposed to allow the strings to move back and forth more easily than a wood/bone bridge. The trem adds some weight and you might find the guitar tail heavy; over the years I've gotten used to it. I've just started to play again after a few years of dealing with health issues and the Guild is the only guitar that I've kept all these years. Now I need a good amp for it. How does the Bogner work for you? I work for a company that sells wire and cable items to Bogner so I may be able to work a deal. Anyway, nice quitar and good luck with the mod. TJ.

I love the Bogner, but am having a hard time finding the exact overdrive tone that I like. My other guitar is an old Epiphone Spotlight, which is a late 80's copy of a PRS. That guitar has a more natural tone with the Bogner, but I'm still toying with it to find the right sound.

 

[tbags4ever]

The flipside to this is you could sell your SF-II and buy an equivalent SF-III. It might be cheaper than buying a Bigsby and surely cheaper than buying a Guild-branded Bigsby...

I would consider selling it, but it was a gift from my father and holds some sentimental value.