Info about GF30

[philelrod66]

Somewhere back in the 90s I had enough money to buy any acoustic guitar I wanted. I was playing music for a living at the time and I went to Rhythm City in Atlanta to buy a quality acoustic guitar. I tried many guitars and spent a couple of hours playing. At the time, I had no idea that there was a difference in laminated and solid wood acoustic guitars because it was my first acoustic guitar. Out of all the guitars I tried I ended up buying a Guild GF30...it sounded better than anything else. I paid $695 for the Guild. To me, there was no comparison in the way the guitars sounded. The Guild was far better than anything I played. Since then, I've played the GF30 in every gig I've ever played. I have been reading and watching videos about laminated vs solid backs on acoustic guitars...the day I bought the guild, i played a martin D28 and D18. I also played some custom acoustic guitars that were 3000$ back then. The Guild sounded better back then and I've never found anything that sounds better...It might sound different...but not better.

What I want to know is...Is there a difference in laminated mahogany or maple vs. plywood? What kind of process did Guild use on my GF30? What is the big deal about laminated vs. solid wood back guitars? I've watched video after video and read article after article...am I missing something? Is this another Fender vs. Gibson or Mac vs PC- which is better argument?
Your help is greatly appreciated...Through the years I've tried all the latest and greatest...Taylor, Santa Cruz and many more customs...I've just never found anything better that my Guild...

 

[davismanLV]

Welcome to LTG, Phil. It's 2 am here and I need to get back to sleep, but there's a lot of info and plenty of people here who can answer your question. They'll be along shortly. I'll check back tomorrow once I'm up and have coffee in my hand!!

 

[SFIV1967]

Welcome to LTG!
Just for discussion here are some catalog infos about your model:








And regarding your question of laminated wood used:

laminate back and sides

I wonder why Guild chose to use laminate back and sides on so many of their acoustic flat tops. Was it a cost factor? Easier to produce? I think it would make a stronger guitar and not as prone to cracking but how does it affect the tone? Does anyone know the answer or have some thoughts.

letstalkguild.com

Ralf

 

[philelrod66]

Thank you so much for your reply! I am looking forward to hearing what folks have to say. I have had the GF for so long and I guess I’d like to know what I’ve been playing all these years! Ha ha…

 

[fronobulax]

The word choice of "laminate" vs. "plywood" already brings misinformation to guitar discussions. Whether the word is meant literally or not "plywood" carries the taint of inferiority primarily from the furniture industry.

In general laminates are stronger than solid wood and if the end result is not rectangular and flat then laminates can produce a "better" result or the same result at lower cost. Specifically in the guitar world if the acoustic properties of an arched back are desired then bending a laminate is easier, cheaper or more repeatable than carving a solid slab. Similarly laminates make for stronger sides.

The benefits of an arched back are generally volume and projection but not every guitar has to excel in that area to be a good instrument.

The science of guitar building is lacking and there are still a lot of things being done because they work and not because we understand why. And the definition of what works is subjective.

Violin construction has received a lot more attention than guitar building. Expensive violins tend to be carved and cheaper violins tend to use laminates. Labor and material costs tend to drive the price. Larger members of the violin family use laminates at higher price points just because it is hard to source wood slabs big enough to be carved. But remember $5,000 is a low priced violin so there is a limit to the comparison.

I am perhaps avoiding your question because I am trying to politely say that if you like the instrument "Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar". Laminate vs. solid doesn't matter.

But the "deal" is that manufacturers and/or luthiers make tradeoffs between cost and performance and make choices to enhance or emphasize certain aspects of performance and people will debate the choices

 

[Guildedagain]

Al will be along shortly. For me the GF series name brings up connotations of past paramours, I just can't get past it.

 

[adorshki]

Thank you so much for your reply! I am looking forward to hearing what folks have to say. I have had the GF for so long and I guess I’d like to know what I’ve been playing all these years! Ha ha…

Basically you've been playing the George Gruhn "Guild F40, re-imagined". The 16" lower bout diameter F-body got its start with Gibson but Guild did more with it than any other maker. Unfortunately, they don't anymore.

Pardon my disgruntled grunts.

 

[philelrod66]

Thank you so much for all your responses! I really never thought about this issue until recently after, of course, watching you tube! I so appreciated, “Shut up and play yer guitar”!!! Love if! I have played the GF at every gig I ever had and I played professionally for 31 years…so is the verdict that my guitar has a laminated back and sides of just the back? What are the laminate plies made from? The specs say maple…just want clarification from you guys…I’ll never get rid of the guitar and I play it everyday…I also picked up a d15m for 300$ about 3 months ago…has it got laminate sides and back? I know it is mahogany…sounds great for recording!!!

 

[philelrod66]

Also, what is the nut and bridge insert made from? Would a bone nut and insert make a difference?

 

[philelrod66]

What is your opinion of stainless frets on acoustic guitars?

 

[plaidseason]

For the sake of whatever, I have very guitar non-purchase regrets, but one of them is a sweet deal on a GF30 a few years back. To me the 16" (mini) jumbo is the perfect all-arounder size and shape. And I'm also a big fan of the Guild arch back which creates a sustain and clarity of notes different from a solid back guitar.

 

[adorshki]

For the sake of whatever, I have very guitar non-purchase regrets, but one of them is a sweet deal on a GF30 a few years back. To me the 16" (mini) jumbo is the perfect all-arounder size and shape. And I'm also a big fan of the Guild arch back which creates a sustain and clarity of notes different from a solid back guitar.

I now think that's true with maple, but between my D25 and D40, the flatback has better clarity, both being 'hog-bodied dreads.

Thank you so much for all your responses! I really never thought about this issue until recently after, of course, watching you tube! I so appreciated, “Shut up and play yer guitar”!!! Love if! I have played the GF at every gig I ever had and I played professionally for 31 years…so is the verdict that my guitar has a laminated back and sides of just the back?

I believe the GF's used solid sides. (I could be wrong, not positive But laminated sides usually occurred on cutaways) The center ply of the back was something lighter like larch. As you can tell, makes no difference since the sound reflection duties occur at the maple layer. The sheets were glued up and then pressed in a die in a steam press. That press is still with 'em in Oxnard, btw. I'm just not sure they still actually have the 16" archback dies that would be need to revive the platform.

I believe they also used bone nuts and saddles, primarily because it surprised me when I first saw it a few years back. But again, "I could be wrong".

What are the laminate plies made from? The specs say maple…just want clarification from you guys…I’ll never get rid of the guitar and I play it everyday…I also picked up a d15m for 300$ about 3 months ago…has it got laminate sides and back? I know it is mahogany…sounds great for recording!!!

All the Guild archback flattops have laminated backs, for one thing they're virtually indestructible compared to a solid carved arch which would be prone to cracking in an unbraced back. Solid is the best sonic solution for an acoustic archtop top, but electric archtops frequently use laminated tops due to their inherent feedback resistance.
The D15M is unusual for its (solid) 'hog top which many folks are big fans of here. It's got my curiosity up to hear a 'hog top some time.

What is your opinion of stainless frets on acoustic guitars?

Considered 'em at the last re-fret of my D25 for the durability, but the luthier (to his credit) mentioned they'd always sound "zingy" and "brassy". Since I love the woody tone of that guitar, I went with Guild's standard nickel-silver alloy. I think silver in the frets helps sweeten the tone.**

Speaking of which, you might want to try the heaviest gauge silk and steel set you can find on that GF30, you might be amazed at what happens. Martin and GHS silver plate the windings of the wounds and the plains in their sets, and it astounded me when I tried 'em on my F65ce, which is a shallow-bodied descendant of the GF30, being a 16" lower bout f-body maple archback.
And btw, welcome aboard! Nice entrance!

**Member @Rayk used EVO Gold on a custom build he had done, his assessment of their virtues got my curiosity up.

 

[philelrod66]

Thank you so much! It helps to know the true specs of my guitars. What does "Hog" mean when people talk about it in relation to acoustic guitars? That d15m is a really sweet guitar...

 

[HeyMikey]

Hog is slang for Mahogany.

 

[kostask]

I now think that's true with maple, but between my D25 and D40, the flatback has better clarity, both being 'hog-bodied dreads.

I believe the GF's used solid sides. (I could be wrong, not positive But laminated sides usually occurred on cutaways) The center ply of the back was something lighter like larch. As you can tell, makes no difference since the sound reflection duties occur at the maple layer. The sheets were glued up and then pressed in a die in a steam press. That press is still with 'em in Oxnard, btw. I'm just not sure they still actually have the 16" archback dies that would be need to revive the platform.

I believe they also used bone nuts and saddles, primarily because it surprised me when I first saw it a few years back. But again, "I could be wrong".


All the Guild archback flattops have laminated backs, for one thing they're virtually indestructible compared to a solid carved arch which would be prone to cracking in an unbraced back. Solid is the best sonic solution for an acoustic archtop top, but electric archtops frequently use laminated tops due to their inherent feedback resistance.
The D15M is unusual for its (solid) 'hog top which many folks are big fans of here. It's got my curiosity up to hear a 'hog top some time.


Considered 'em at the last re-fret of my D25 for the durability, but the luthier (to his credit) mentioned they'd always sound "zingy" and "brassy". Since I love the woody tone of that guitar, I went with Guild's standard nickel-silver alloy. I think silver in the frets helps sweeten the tone.**

Speaking of which, you might want to try the heaviest gauge silk and steel set you can find on that GF30, you might be amazed at what happens. Martin and GHS silver plate the windings of the wounds and the plains in their sets, and it astounded me when I tried 'em on my F65ce, which is a shallow-bodied descendant of the GF30, being a 16" lower bout f-body maple archback.
And btw, welcome aboard! Nice entrance!

**Member @Rayk used EVO Gold on a custom build he had done, his assessment of their virtues got my curiosity up.

Nickle-silver doesn't actually have any silver in it. Its just a trade name for nickle alloy to make it sound like it is more expensive than it is. If they used real silver in fret wire, you'd be refretting the guitar after about 10 hours of play.

 

[adorshki]

Nickle-silver doesn't actually have any silver in it. Its just a trade name for nickle alloy to make it sound like it is more expensive than it is. If they used real silver in fret wire, you'd be refretting the guitar after about 10 hours of play.

Funny you should mention that, I always thought I went through the original frets on that puppy a bit quickly. Like about 200 hours of playing before I had some pretty good notches built up.

 

[philelrod66]

I really appreciate all the info…my bucket list guitar is a US made Starfire. Got my eye on one right now.

 

[fronobulax]

I really appreciate all the info…my bucket list guitar is a US made Starfire. Got my eye on one right now.

We're here to help.

 

[GGJaguar]

We're here to help.

 

[adorshki]

"Nobody ever leaves here with less guitars than they started with. What's your budget?"