JF65 vs D30 - Which one to buy

[txbumper57]

I'd be surprised, that'd be pretty far out of tolerance for a guitar spec'd with 1-11/16 nut.
Just to be clear, nut width is actually fretboard width right at the front edge of the nut.
Because we've seen folks think it's the nut itself, and that can be misleading.
NO question of some production tolerance at Westerly because of the way they finished necks, every single one by hand, but that still seems a bit far out of tolerance if it really is the fretboard width.
They were pretty good with tolerance consistency in '96* and actually only offered 2 flattops with 1-3/4" nuts at the time, the A25 and A50.

I have more than one Guild Spec'ed at 1-11/16" nut width that are actually 1.73" nut width or wider when measured where the fret board meets the nut so it is very possible that the measurement is correct on the D30. I also had a 2001 Starfire II made under the Fender QC policy that was spec'ed at 1-11/16" nut width and it was barely 1-5/8" wide at the nut so anything is possible.

I believe the JF100NT-CRV and some of the DV72's from this same time had 1.75" nut widths. At least my JF100NT-CRV has a full 1.75" nut width as well as a few others owned here on the forum.

TX

 

[adorshki]

I believe the JF100NT-CRV and some of the DV72's from this same time had 1.75" nut widths. At least my JF100NT-CRV has a full 1.75" nut width as well as a few others owned here on the forum.

All the DV's and your JF100 with the 1.75 nut were from pre-Fender era.
We had a thread on it.
Want me to find it?

 

[txbumper57]

All the DV's and your JF100 with the 1.75 nut were from pre-Fender era.
We had a thread on it.
Want me to find it?

You can if you like Al but it really isn't neccessary. Like I said I have seen more than a few from the "Fender Era" that had nut width discrepancies both wider and more narrow than the spec'ed nut width so I still think the measurement on the D30 is entirely possible. Especially since someone took the time to measure it and I know you haven't had the chance to inspect the guitar first hand. I am more entitled to believe the potential buyer and seller than speculation. As we all know, with Guild anything is possible.

TX

 

[Stuball48]

TX pointed out the JF65 has plastic bridge pins and micarta nut and saddle. I have not seen the guitar in person and should this still be the case for the JF65, would you consider a change to bone? Would it be an improvement and would you change all three or saddle and pins? Or do you think Guild knew what they were doing and the JF65 is correctly built for maximum tone and projection? Thanks for any input.

 

[West R Lee]

I owned both for several years, and as beautiful a guitar as the JF65 was, if I was going to play somewhere, I'll take the D30. The D30 is the only guitar in my house that doesn't sound good with JP 80/20 strings (all subjective) and I keep Thomastick Plectrums on that one and they REALLY bring her to life. Both really nice guitars though. The JF65 sure recorded well though.

West

 

[txbumper57]

TX pointed out the JF65 has plastic bridge pins and micarta nut and saddle. I have not seen the guitar in person and should this still be the case for the JF65, would you consider a change to bone? Would it be an improvement and would you change all three or saddle and pins? Or do you think Guild knew what they were doing and the JF65 is correctly built for maximum tone and projection? Thanks for any input.

The Micarta doesn't sound bad but to me it is not as lively as Bone. My First order of business when purchasing a Westerly Guild with the Micarta Nut, Saddle, and plastic bridge pins is to have them replaced with Bone as well as a nice compensated bone saddle to make the intonation spot on. To me it makes for a significant upgrade across the entire tone department and really brings the guitar to life. I know others here have done the same and reaped the rewards from the improvements.

TX

 

[PTC Bernie]

Yeah, in fact, of all things we saw a couple of close s/n G-37's s reported with 1-5/8" nuts recently.
Or were you in that thread?

I'm not sure if i saw that particular thread, but I do remember one where a 1 5/" nut width was mentioned. Going the wrong way ;-}

 

[Stuball48]

Any LTG member or reader have a JF65 you have changed from the original nut, saddle, and bridge to bone? Helped, about same, or not as good? Do not want to change just because it "should" be better--would like opinions from someone who has made the change.

 

[Stuball48]

The decision has been made and the 2000 JF65 has a new home in Dickson. Both guitars were amazing but I kept finding myself drawn to the JF65. My final decision was simply, "there are fewer of these on the market and it had a little more ump overall." I really like the way it played, looked, and sounded.
Pictures will be along-"patience Grasshopper."

 

[Stuball48]

Pictures can be seen here.

https://imgur.com/a/43itH

 

[davismanLV]

Wow, very pretty guitar, Stu!! I LIKE IT!! Now get some 0000 steel wool and get after that dirty ebony board!! :encouragement:

 

[Stuball48]

Tom--will check my steel wool in shop. Owner said it could use a set of strings which have not been changed in couple years. Thought I might do the strings and ebony board at same time. Easier to get to even though changing, only, one string at a time.

 

[chazmo]

Hope you enjoy it, stuball. The JF-65 (i.e., F-50) is one of Guild's flagship guitars. I know several people who have an undying affection for Guild because of this guitar.

 

[adorshki]

Tom--will check my steel wool in shop. Owner said it could use a set of strings which have not been changed in couple years. Thought I might do the strings and ebony board at same time. Easier to get to even though changing, only, one string at a time.

I'm not sure I'd want to put steel wool on those inlays, and definitely watch out for stuff that'll dissolve 'em because there's real abalone in there.
Same reason you don't want to clean pearls in ammonia, IIRC. I don't think lemon juice'd be too good for 'em either (acidity), even though it'd be ok on the wood.
Forgive me if I sound preachy but it's one of those things better said than not, just in case you didn't already think of it.
I'm fortunate I don't leave much "jam" on my fretboards so when I do clean 'em I can get away with simple vigorous rubbing with an old fashioned terry washcloth.

 

[chazmo]

Al, 4-ought (0000) steel wool is pretty easy on inlays and boards. I wouldn't use it if I thought it was dangerous. Have you ever had a problem with it?

I'd stay away from lemon juice and go with bore oil, or boiled linseed oil.

 

[Stuball48]

TX:
Thanks and I was hoping for a response like yours. I am a little skidish when it comes to bathing abalone/pearl and such. May put the no lint cloth fueled by elbow grease.

 

[Stuball48]

Adorshki Adorshki Adorshki had just read TX's post on my other thread.

 

[chazmo]

Sounds good, Stu. Wool will help shine your frets and get grime out of the fretboard, but don't use it if you get good results otherwise. Highly recommend "bore oil" (which is what folks use in clarinets and oboes) as something to use on your fretboard and bridge during or after your cleaning. That said, ebony doesn't really absorb much, but it feels good to the touch. Rosewood needs it baaaaad though (but that's not what you have). You don't need more than a couple of drops of the stuff and you rub it in to your ebony. It'll thank you for it.

 

[adorshki]

Al, 4-ought (0000) steel wool is pretty easy on inlays and boards. I wouldn't use it if I thought it was dangerous. Have you ever had a problem with it?

Never used it, never had a need, just thought it deserved a "look before you leap" suggestion.
:friendly_wink:

I'd stay away from lemon juice and go with bore oil, or boiled linseed oil.

I meant lemon juice for a cleaning agent, even diluted, because of the acidity. Because it's suggested sometimes, not necessarily here.
Was trying to avoid a rehash of the "what's good to dress a board with" discussion because going by Stu's list he's probably already got a pretty good idea of how to treat a guitar.
Just wasn't sure if he'd ever dealt with real nacre (MOP, Abalone) on a fretboard before.
Like said, just throwing out a caution in case it's appropriate and before it's too late.

 

[adorshki]

Adorshki Adorshki Adorshki had just read TX's post on my other thread.

Not sure which one but suspect I was composing post here while he was posting there.
Or were you talking about my momentary lapse of reason?
That wasn't me, it was my evil twin.
Going over to the other thread now.
PS "You can call me Al"
:biggrin-new: