First of all, I should be able to get pictures up next weekend
So I have been reading about the JLD bridge system and it sounds like a worth while investment simply because it appears to stabilize the bridge. I also checked the top of my guitar with a 12" machinist’s ruler. If I lay the ruler flat at the bridge and extend it to the end block of the guitar, there is a good 1/4" gap between the ruler and the binding at the end pin. If I run the ruler from the bridge to the neck, there is 3/32 or so dip around the sound hole. I know that flat tops aren't supposed to be perfectly flat, but this seems a bit excessive to me, so I am hoping the JLD may take care if of some of this "belly" as well. If there is some belly and the JLD does remove it, I am assuming I should be able to raise the saddle a bit and get some better break angles. With the bridge stabilized I am thinking based upon some other postings that I should be able to block sand about 1/8” off of the bridge and get so more of the saddle exposed….
Thoughts?
Thanks - Tom
So I have been reading about the JLD bridge system and it sounds like a worth while investment simply because it appears to stabilize the bridge. I also checked the top of my guitar with a 12" machinist’s ruler. If I lay the ruler flat at the bridge and extend it to the end block of the guitar, there is a good 1/4" gap between the ruler and the binding at the end pin. If I run the ruler from the bridge to the neck, there is 3/32 or so dip around the sound hole. I know that flat tops aren't supposed to be perfectly flat, but this seems a bit excessive to me, so I am hoping the JLD may take care if of some of this "belly" as well. If there is some belly and the JLD does remove it, I am assuming I should be able to raise the saddle a bit and get some better break angles. With the bridge stabilized I am thinking based upon some other postings that I should be able to block sand about 1/8” off of the bridge and get so more of the saddle exposed….
Thoughts?
Thanks - Tom