Need Some Advice - Maple

adorshki

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mdutr0 said:
Approximately $800 is right in my wheelhouse. Unfortunately, the significant other says that if one is coming in, one needs to go out...
Anyone want a Martin? :D
Sure. It must be 5:00 somewhere. OOHHHH>>>>I thought you said martini....sorry.... :D
 

West R Lee

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mdutr0 said:
At the risk of stirring the pot, I will say that I am not opposed to GAD models. I am very much enjoying the one I have now!

That being said, I am not married to the idea of maple. I just find that I prefer a tone that is very articulate, good note-definition, and on the clear side. I don't mind overtones, I just don't like them to the point where it is difficult to make out individual notes in the chord, especially in the bass.

If there is another wood combination or model that would fit the bill, I am all ears!

Mahogany might be a nice compromise.

West
 

Marty Bradbury

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I played a Guild Jumbo with maple back and sides (not sure what model) and the tone and volume it produced was really nice...juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust about left with me
 

micklevanon

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My JF30 is a jumbo with Maple sides and back and a Spruce top and, personally, tone and volume are really, really, really nice, and it did leave the store with me. Unless you find an F50 (same guitar, more bling, more money!) or an F50R with rosewood sides and back and a spruce top, you will not find a better sounding jumbo than that JF30.

my 2 cents, plus or minus $800-$1000 depending on level of mintness.
mick
 

mdutr0

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West R Lee said:
Mahogany might be a nice compromise.

West

Do you mean mahogany like an all-hog D25 or mahogany as in spruce/mahogany? Some of those D25s look pretty cool.
 

mdutr0

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Does anyone know if an all-mahogany guitar might satisfy my clarity itch?
 

adorshki

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mdutr0 said:
Does anyone know if an all-mahogany guitar might satisfy my clarity itch?
Yep. But were' not talkin'. :lol:
Actually, "might" is the critical word there. I still think what you want to do is investigate flatbacks. There's been periodic discussion about archback vs flatback and several of the folks who have both (like me) agree that the archbacks seem to sustain more, but flatbacks have better note "clarity", which is what you said you were originally looking for.
Every guitar, when you get to the level of American made Guilds, really is unique. You may find exactlly what you're looking for in any of the wood combinations. but I suspect you'll find it more readily in a flatback.
From another perspective, one reason maple archbacks are so popular is that maple tends to compensate for the sometimes overpowering sustain and overtones of the archback design.
 

West R Lee

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mdutr0 said:
West R Lee said:
Mahogany might be a nice compromise.

West

Do you mean mahogany like an all-hog D25 or mahogany as in spruce/mahogany? Some of those D25s look pretty cool.

Well, I guess we all have our preferences, but between the two, I like a spruce top on mahogany back and sides. I've played a few hog topped D25's, and they just don't do it for me. But then, I'm a rosewood guy myself.

West
 

mdutr0

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Ok. So flatback, spruce/mahogany.... That's what? D40, F30, F40 right?
 

West R Lee

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mdutr0 said:
Ok. So flatback, spruce/mahogany.... That's what? D40, F30, F40 right?

Well, the flatbacked dread would be a D40, the D25 would be arch backed, obviously the F's are folk small jumbo bodies.....yes sir.....also a Westerly DV6 would fit the bill.

West
 

GF60MP

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Bluelizzard said:
Don't forget the GF-60M


IMG_1630-1.jpg

IMG_1628.jpg




Bluelizzard, you are the first person I've run across who also owns a GF-60M

Here's mine...
GF-60M.jpg

P1020106.jpg
 

mdutr0

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Thank you all for all of your advice (and patience).

But after thinking it over, listening to recordings (no dealers where I live!), etc. I think I will go the spruce/mahogany or all mahogany route.
 
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