NGD - DCE3

GGJaguar

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I didn’t need a 14-fret dread, especially with a cutaway and onboard preamp, but autumn is here, pumpkin spice is in the air and I could not resist the orangeness! I didn’t know much about the DCE3, but from what I’ve read on LTG by current and former owners, the overall consensus is positive. After digging around the interwebs, I found out the DCE3 was introduced in 1999 or July 1998 if you believe the info on Guild’s website back in the day. It was discontinued with the closure of the Westerly facility in 2001. Naturally, it filled the void between the DCE1 and DCE5 models that were introduced a few years earlier. It was available in Blonde (natural), Black, Antique Sunburst and Tennessee Orange.

DCE-3.jpg

The fit and finish is excellent as found on most late Westerly era guitars. It has a laminated maple body (a full 5” deep!) with an arched back. I think that’s a smart design for a maple acoustic guitar. It’s difficult to photograph (for me, a photography luddite), but there is some flame on the back. This is what I call “ghost flame” – your eye can see it, but the camera (read: my camera) cannot. Thankfully, the flamed sides are easy to photograph. Oh, did I mention it’s deliciously orange? :)

DCE-3 flame.jpg

DCE-3s.jpg

According to Guild literature, it has an AA solid spruce top and I’m betting it’s the same top as used on the DCE5 (also AA spruce, same rosette). The finish is almost certainly nitrocellulose lacquer as evidenced by the way it’s sinking into the spruce grain. The earliest specifications on Guild’s website from December 1998 through October 1999 list the preamp as “Fishman Prefix Blender” (mic and piezo) as used on the DCE5, however, this may have been an error which was corrected to read “Fishman Prefix Pro” (piezo only) on the website by March 2000.

Excerpts from the 2001 catalog and price list (courtesy of GAD.net)

2001 catalog.jpgJan 2001 Price List.jpg

The earliest DCE3s have tortoise pickguards and 3-piece maple necks with rosewood fingerboard and bridge. The later version was fitted with a black pickguard and 1-piece mahogany neck with ebony fingerboard and bridge. All of them have a 5-ply bound top and 1-ply bound back. Based on serial numbers, I’m guessing that between 550 and 600 were made over 3 years or so of production.

The neck profile is modestly meaty and fills the hand nicely. It has a 1 11/16” nut width and narrow frets. The ebony board feels great and I’d call it an easy-to-play neck. There is no fret marker or side marker at the 3rd fret which is a surprise. It is straight braced (not scalloped) and lacks side bracing probably due to the laminated sides not needing additional support. There are two heavy duty transverse braces between the soundhole and neck block. I assume these are larger than normal to add extra support due to the cutaway. This example weighs in at hefty 5.9 lb (2.68 kg) which is exactly the same as my 1977 D-55.

My initial thought was that the acoustic tone is okay. It definitely lacked the volume I’d expect for a full-size dreadnaught with an arched back. Of course, the first step with any acoustic (or acousti-lectric) is to change the strings even if you think they aren’t dead. In this case, I wanted new strings in hopes of a volume increase. That’s when I discovered the strings that were on it (phosphor bronze) were extra light gauge (10 – 47). The DCE3 specs from 2001 call for Guild L350 strings (PB, light gauge, 12 – 53) so I slapped on a set of D’Addario EJ16 strings (PB, light gauge, 12 – 53).

The acoustic tone is much better with a fresh set of PB 12s and the volume improved, though it’s not nearly as loud as my other fully acoustic dreads. I let the guitar sit for a couple days to let the brassy sizzle of the new PB strings subside. The guitar has a typical Guild dreadnaught voice: very pleasant and well-balanced from top to bottom. I’m sure it would record better than my boomy 12-fret Martin dreadnaughts. Surprisingly, it is not very bright for having a maple body. In fact, I might try brighter strings on it next. The notes come off the soundboard strong and decay somewhat quickly, but the sustain is admirable.

Just for kicks, I tuned the guitar down a half step. Wow! I don’t know if I hit the resonant frequency of the body or what, but that put the guitar into a sonic sweet spot. The harmonic content increased producing a richer sound and I swear it’s a little louder now as well. I never would have guessed this would be the result of a simple de-tune. What a happy accident!

bob.jpg
 
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GGJaguar

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I compared the DCE3 specs to those of its fully acoustic stablemate, the Guild D-30. The main difference is the D-30 has a 3-piece maple neck with rosewood fingerboard and bridge, and a scalloped-braced top. The DCE has straight bracing to, presumably, help resist feedback because it was also intended to be amplified. Straight bracing certainly gives it a different acoustic voice compared to scalloped bracing. It’s nicely balanced and definitely not a dud by any measure, but it makes me wonder how much better the scalloped-braced D-30 might be.

Next, I plugged it into a Quilter Superblock US using the ’65 setting and played through a Deluxe-size cab loaded with a Weber 12F150 speaker (50-watt Jensen C12N clone). The electric tone is surprisingly good considering the Fishman Prefix Pro preamp and undersaddle pickup represent 20+ year old technology. There was only a hint of the nasal piezo quack that I hate. When played at very low volumes (lower than the guitar’s acoustic output), the amplified sound enriches the overall tone giving it more presence. I played at a “reasonable” household volume which was not loud enough to induce feedback so I cannot comment on feedback resistance.

The barn door style unit is smaller than most at only 2 x 3” (5.1 x 7.6 cm). The battery is not remotely mounted so it can be changed in seconds by opening the barn door. No tools are required and there’s no need to loosen or remove the strings! This is an improvement over the version used on early DCE1s that has a larger barn door and uses a separate battery compartment located near the end pin that required yet another hole to be cut in the body.

preamp.jpgpreamp open.jpg

The EQ sliders are useful, but sensitive and slight adjustment results in large changes in tone. I didn’t find the phase switch particularly useful. It just made the guitar sound more nasal and leaned dangerously close to evil piezo quack tone. The notch filter seems to attenuate large bands of frequencies at a time. I just set it to where I liked the sound best and left it. I think it would be interesting to see how the DCE3 compares to Guild’s other maple acousti-lectrics like the F45CE and F47MCE.

In all, the DCE3 is a competent acoustic and electric guitar and I’m confident it held its own against competing models from Ovation, Taylor and Takamine back in the day. Not that I’m biased (much), but I think I’d pick the Guild over the Ovation 1771 Balladeer, Taylor 410ce or Takamine EF350MC. :)

1999 Taylor 410CE.jpg1999 Ovation 1771 Balladeer.jpgTakamine EF350MC.jpg

The Guild is very handsome (Tennessee Orange, gold and ebony!). I could have definitely used this guitar when I was still playing in a band. Even just noodling around at home, I like how it sounds plugged in for certain songs. And keeping it tuned to E-flat means it’s easier to sing (or in my case, croak) plus I get to play along to all my favorite songs by The Smithereens (they recorded tuned down a half step)! So, while my impulsive purchase may not have been wise, the DCE3 turned out to be a pretty dang cool guitar and gets the GGJaguar seal of approval.
 
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GGJaguar

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Epilogue – all the Guild literature I’ve examined refers to this model as the DCE3. Even the label inside this guitar has DCE3. Yet, every fiber of my being wants to add a hyphen to the name, i.e. - DCE-3. But, sometimes Guild was inconsistent. Check out this DCE5 where the label is marked “DC-5E”.

DC5E label.jpg

So, in future, don’t be surprised if I use the hyphen even though it’s technically not supposed to be there. :)

One more photo to bask in the orange glow.

DCE-3 pumpkin.jpg
 
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Stuball48

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Beautiful and I have information overload.
But it is a puzzlement to me how you posted this much information on three entries - each one minute apart --- you have to know a trick. Or maybe my Tennessee Technological brain is this far behind. Or maybe you write one post and your phone or forum separates it into three.
WOW!!!
 

Stuball48

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I write it all out on my laptop and then cut and paste it in. :)
Veer:
Haven't done much cutting and pasting since 2nd grade in 1954. Seems I remember the glue was a see-through brown and had a rubber tip cut at a 45* angle with a hole and you mashed rubber tip on paper so glue could ooze out on paper where cutout went.
 

Rayk

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Nice , I like the orange to ! Hope to hear it soon .😊
 

davismanLV

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As much as I don't generally like cutaways on dreads, that one is very nice. Maybe I'm mellowing in my old age?? Probably not but I still think it looks nice. Also, the orange is super cool. Thanks for the in-depth write up and review. It's a perfect Halloween celebration guitar!! (y)(y)
 

bobouz

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Love it in orange! As for tuning down, all my acoustics are tuned down somewhere in the neighborhood of a half-step to a full-step, depending on where the sweetest spot resides - always fun when you find it!
 

jeffcoop

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Thanks for the excellent write-up and great pictures. I didn't know anything about this model.
 

Boneman

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That is a really cool colored Guild dreadnought, wow, you see something new everyday. Love the pumpkin pic. Of course I just came from the land of the Vols and that guitar would fit right in there. 😉
 

GGJaguar

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As much as I don't generally like cutaways on dreads
Oh, I'm with you on that! But like you noted, it just seems more "okay" on this model in this color. And the truth is, I don't even notice it's there when I'm playing.
 

cupric

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Excellent and informative! That color is great.
 

plaidseason

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As much as I don't generally like cutaways on dreads, that one is very nice. Maybe I'm mellowing in my old age?? Probably not but I still think it looks nice. Also, the orange is super cool. Thanks for the in-depth write up and review. It's a perfect Halloween celebration guitar!! (y)(y)
For years, after I sold my first DCE1, I mostly hated cutaways, and then one day I decided I didn't hate them anymore . . . and began to really miss the DCE1 and went and bought another one. Now I even fantasize about a Gibson CF100E.
 

gjmalcyon

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If you're not doing so already, use this as your battery:

1667178127362.png

They're more expensive than alkalines, but they don't self destruct and take the devices they're in with them.

I've got 'em in my F-47R and the preamp I use with it.

Nice looking guitar, BTW. Liking the color.
 

NM156

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That's a beautiful guitar. I'm usually not a fan of cutaways but that's because I lack the playing skills to utilize them :LOL: I will have to try the detuning trick on my Guild.
 

GGJaguar

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Update: I replaced the D'Addario PBs with Curt Mangan roundcore monel strings. I like these strings on the this guitar a lot better than the PBs because they enhance the woody tone. I haven't tried Martin monels on this particular guitar yet, but they seem to be a bit brighter and have a softer feel than the Martins. One thing I noticed is that the windings separated a bit on the E and D strings near the saddle, but have remained stable.

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