NGD: Orpheum 12-fret D

GGJaguar

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I love 12-fret dreadnaughts. They are what steered me away from Guild acoustics over 25 years ago. So, when @Stuball48 listed his Orpheum 12-fret D for sale, my willpower gave out and now it’s mine. :)

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Probably everyone on LTG knows the story about the Orpheum line: Ren Ferguson, “if Guild built guitars in the 1930s”, hide glue, blah blah blah. But if you aren’t familiar, a quick interwebs search will tell you all you need to know within minutes. With that said, I don’t believe these represent what Guild “would have built”, but are merely an extension of Mr. Ferguson’s Gibson-centric guitar design philosophy.

The Orpheum 12-fret D roots are unmistakably based on the 1930’s Gibson Roy Smeck Stage Deluxe model. It was a slope shouldered 12-fret Honduran mahogany dreadnaught with heavy, straight bracing (X-braced) with a giant V-neck (2.25” nut!). It was meant to be played Hawaiian style, but a lot of players have them converted to play Spanish style (neck re-set, lower nut, add frets, shave neck to make it slimmer). It wasn’t a fancy model and had basic appointments – rosewood fingerboard with pearl dot markers, open-back tuners, straight bridge with through-saddle, single ring 3-ply rosette, single bound top and back (some were triple bound), no back stripe, and a firestripe pickguard (some had no pg).

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Fast-foward to the 1990s and Gibson reissues the Roy Smeck Stage Deluxe. The reissue is, obviously, set up to play Spanish style. The neck profile is a little chunky with a 1.8” (27.5 mm) nut width and is attached to the body via a dovetail joint and hide glue. The Honduran mahogany body is fitted with a triple bound red spruce top that has scalloped X-bracing. Like the original, it has a single ring 3-ply rosette, no backstripe and a firestripe pickguard. Scale length is 24 ¾ inches and the guitar has 19 frets.

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Jumping to 2012, Ren is working for Guild and helps design the Orpheum series using his vast knowledge of Gibson acoustic guitars. To differentiate the 12-fret D from the Gibson Roy Smeck model, Ren and his team changed up the cosmetics a bit. A stylized Guild “hump top” headstock shape was added to the narrow Gibsonesque headstock. Like the Gibson, the Orph’s logo is silkscreened over the lacquer finish and is, therefore, at risk of being damaged (later it was applied under the lacquer).

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The Orph has a 2-piece neck and ebony fingerboard in place of the Gibson’s 1-piece neck with rosewood board. It also has an additional fret (20 instead of the Gibson’s 19). The 24 ¾” scale was retained along with the 1.8” nut width (later reduced to 1.75”). The heel carve was flattened to be more Guild-like. The Smeck’s straight bridge was kept, but ebony instead of rosewood and the through-saddle was replaced by a drop-in saddle. The firestripe pickguard was replaced by a tortoise guard that reminds me of the Fender Paramount line. The back is single bound like the Gibby, but the Orph gets a snazzy back stripe, a 3-ply bound top with rope purfling and a fancy 3-ring rosette. In addition, the sound hole is bound like Martin’s Ditson 333 12-fret dread.

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The Orph’s top bracing takes an interesting hybrid approach. The X-bracing is slightly tapered, while the two tone bars are scalloped. I believe the angle of the X-brace is large (maybe 100°?) as found on vintage Gibsons. The tone bars seem to have contemporary placement. The back uses the traditional style of two thin braces and two thick braces. So, it’s a real mashup.

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GGJaguar

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What I’d really like to compare is the reissue Gibson’s bracing to the Orpheum’s. I played a reissue Roy Smeck Stage DeLuxe at a guitar jam and found it to be rather dark sounding, especially compared to my Martin CS-D18-12 and Osthoff 12-fret dreads. Granted, short scale acoustics tend to be a little warmer, but the Gibby I played was on the way warm (dark) side.

Which brings me back to the Orpheum. I’m used to the sound and feel of long scale acoustics. They tend to be a little brighter and have more projection and snap. I’ve only owned two short scale acoustics – a Martin Custom Shop 12-fret D-28 Marquis and an Eastman E20P (I still have the Eastman). I find short scale acoustics still have some punch and the notes decay more quickly, but sustain is still good. The Orpheum fits in with my experience. It sounds warmer than my long scale mahogany/red spruce 12-fret dreads, but has some punch and decent sustain. It is not as loud as my other 12-fretters. Oh, and it is definitely not as dark sounding as the Roy Smeck reissue that I played.

The short scale Orph can be easier to play than its long scale counterparts, but sometimes I find the shorter scale a bit cramped with my fat fingers. The neck’s shallow D profile is on par with my other 12-fretters. It’s big, but not gigantic and it’s easy to play. The modern 2 1/4” (57 mm) string spacing is the same as on my other 12-fretters, except the Martin CS which has vintage spec 2 5/16” spacing.

When I first played the Orph, I was sawing away at the strings in an attempt to get it sound like my other 12-fretters. It won’t and never will. The Orph has a wonderful baby grand piano sound. My other 12-fretters are more like concert grand pianos. They all have their place and all make me happy. Still, I find I have to approach the Orph as if it’s a big 000. Yes, it’s great for strumming, but I have to dial back my pick attack just a bit. It has a lot of headroom and never gets muddy thanks to the red spruce top.

It’s really great for playing fingerstyle and I think that’s one of its strong points. I know a lot of fingerstyle players prefer smaller body guitars (better tonal balance, easier to play), but I have a couple of friends who are awesome fingerstyle players and exclusively use dreadnaughts. The Orph’s lush sound makes even timid fingerstyle playing (like mine) shine. One thing about mahogany 12-fretters is that the notes tend to bloom out in front of the guitar. Some do this more than others and I’d say the Orph is on the lower end of the “bloom” spectrum. It gives you most of what you’re going to get right from the start (which is a lot!).

The guitar came to me with a relatively fresh set of D’Addario PB 12s. These are completely acceptable and put the guitar in the “singer-songwriter” sweet spot - great balance with warm tone. They sound really nice for fingerstyle on this guitar, too. I replaced them with a set of Martin monel 13s because I use monels on my other 12-fret dreads and wanted to see how they sound on the Orph. Plus, I’m planning on doing a comparison in the near future to see how it measures up to my other 12-fretters and it helps if they all have the same strings. So stay tuned for that!

The monels perform about the same as on the other 12-fretters – a slight push in the midrange and overall woodier tone. The guitar isn’t any louder with them. I tend to go back and forth with PB and monel strings for change of pace, anyway.

The bottom line is that 12-fret dreadnaughts are a particular breed and not for everyone. I like them because they have a little better balance compared to their 14-fret counterparts, a sweeter, richer voice and, in general, are just as loud as any other dread. Their main drawback is access above the 12th fret and having to change strings with a slotted headstock. Obviously, the slot head is a non-issue with the Orph. If you prefer guitars that lean toward Gibson tone rather than Martin, the Orpheum 12-fret D could be a good choice. Unfortunately, I don’t think very many were made. I only know of 7 including this one, though I’m sure more must have been made.
 
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GGJaguar

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Epilogue

A few of the stock Gotoh tuners were a bit wonky, i.e. – difficult to turn, grabby. I was afraid the plastic tuner buttons would break and I didn’t feel like disassembling and lubing them (I’m getting old). I happened to have a new set of nickel Grover “Sta-Tite” V97-18 tuners with round buttons (not clover leaf) so I did a tuner swap. The dimensions of the Grovers are just a tiny bit different from the Gotoh SE700 “Sta-Tite” tuners, so I wouldn’t call them drop in. However, they do fit without modification. The Grovers are bright nickel whereas the factory Gotoh SE700 tuners are aged nickel. No matter, I like the look of the Grovers just fine and they work soooo much better.

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GGJaguar

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Honestly, the neck profile isn't super big and I can't tell it's 1.8" (yes, I measured it with calipers). It feels just like a 1.75" nut.
 

Stuball48

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Holy moly - that is what I call knowledge and research working together to give a pinpoint description of the Orpheum and it all makes since.
I like the idea of changing the tuners and you described the originals, perfectly + couple buggers to tune.
Thanks for sharing all your thoughts and research.
 

GGJaguar

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Here's a look at the heel carve of the reissue Gibson (left) versus the Orpheum (right).

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chazmo

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Oh by the way, GG, I'm not sure if that LRBaggs pickup was factory or not (I don't think so). Anyway, beautiful guitar, GG.
 

HeyMikey

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Fantastic review and history lesson. I don’t recall ever reading about the influence of the 1930’s Gibson Roy Smeck Stage Deluxe. Congratulations GG, and enjoy playing!

Love my 14-fret. As you suggested about the 12-fret mine plays very much like an 0000 and is terrific for finger style.
 
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twocorgis

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Epilogue

A few of the stock Gotoh tuners were a bit wonky, i.e. – difficult to turn, grabby. I was afraid the plastic tuner buttons would break and I didn’t feel like disassembling and lubing them (I’m getting old). I happened to have a new set of nickel Grover “Sta-Tite” V97-18 tuners with round buttons (not clover leaf) so I did a tuner swap. The dimensions of the Grovers are just a tiny bit different from the Gotoh SE700 “Sta-Tite” tuners, so I wouldn’t call them drop in. However, they do fit without modification. The Grovers are bright nickel whereas the factory Gotoh SE700 tuners are aged nickel. No matter, I like the look of the Grovers just fine and they work soooo much better.

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Congratulation Greg, and thanks for saving me from myself! Yes, the OEM tuners are junk, and I swap mine out for "regular" Gotoh SE700s. they're supposed to be the same, but they're not for sure. I tried Sta-Tites, but I couldn't get the screw holes to line up correctly. I'd prefer the 18:1 ratio.
 

ReevesRd

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Congratulations, GG! I'm glad to know that Stu's guitar stayed in the group. And thanks for the description and history.
A wonderful guitar.
 

Walter Broes

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congratulations, looks like a really nice guitar!

Funny how in the "Gruhn era" Guild dreads got Martin-like appointments, and Ferguson turned some of them into obvious Gibson-inspired guitars.
 
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