Notching the saddle...

[bluesypicky]

About making notches on the saddle, since that's where I'm at on my new old D25 that I've lowered as much as I could without buzz on the 2 outside strings (E's) but that still needs some lowering mainly on the B, G, D and a tad on the A strings, I was wondering what kind of tool can I use in order to make notches just the right width for the string?
The box cutter is too thin, the hack saw blade to wide, etc.......
Can an appropriate tool be bought somewhere?

 

[bluesypicky]

I tried to remove this post (after realizing that the sanding of the saddle top down to the depth of the notches will actually resolve the issue of the too large notches, duhhhh :roll: )
But I guess this cannot be done...
Moderator?

 

[adorshki]

PLEASE.....N-O-O-o-o-h....... DO NOT NOTCH THE SADDLE you will get buzz. Strings are meant to rest on a particularly profiled saddle edge, ie, there should be a "ramp' angle on the back (facing the bridge pins) which is ideal to prevent buzz. There's also an ideal angle range at which the strings meet the saddle from the pins. Having made sure to get that said, I WILL say that I just tweaked the last "nth" of setup on my newly refretted axe last weekend and I used a finishing grade of a sandpaper (ie VERY fine) to shave the saddle a few thousandths at a time while maintaining the profile. Just to make sure, did you mean to say "nut"? I used the same paper folded a couple of times as improvised "nut slot files" to do those slots. Cut about a 3/4" strip and rolled it to the desired gauge by feel (matched it to the strings I was gonna use.) Nut slots by the way have similar factors regarding ramping on the side facing the tuners as well as the neccessity to keep a perfectly flat edge on the fretboard side. I only wanted to get my low E and A down just a taste though. You might not be able to "fake it" with paper at the thinner slots.
There's a link in here somewhere I saw recently that covers the subject very well, now I remember, check out http://www.frets.com and go to the FAQ and then the big index.
I suspect your neck might be just a little too tight if you're trying to lower the saddle too much or there's something else going on with neck geometry.
Good luck and forgive me if I assumed too much!

 

[bluesypicky]

Thanks adorshki, I am with you and knew about the need for a downward "ramp" needed towards the pins (and that's why I don't want to go further with the bottom sanding or take the risk to lose this angle on the E's that hang a little lower than the middle strings due to the saddle top curve).
I will check the neck again but it really seemed straight as an arrow to me.
Thanks for the tips and the link that I'm going to study now!!

 

[adorshki]

It's not too difficult to maintain that "cross section" profile with the technique I used, I actually did sand the top of the saddle not the bottom, 'cause I only wanted some localized lowering like you. Sounds like maybe you just need to "flatten" the arch a little, I wanted to lower it on one side. Sounds like you're familiar enough and confident enough (like me) to try it yourself, I mean what's the worst that could happen, you need to buy a new saddle? I always take a little pride in doing my own "final tweaking".
Also you might be surprised at what just a 1/8-1/3 of a turn of truss tightening (clockwise as you face the adjusting nut end on) will do even though it's not visible. In fact a little "relief" is desirable at about the 7th -12th frets. I lower the string tension a lot but not completely when I do it. If there's no give at all don't force it. If there's no resistance at all it's probably too loose..(which might be part of why action seems high) If you decide to adjust it let it settle in for a couple of days before further adjustment. If the action winds up too low you can always back off again. I've only done it about 3 times over 10 years, it shouldn't need to be messed with a lot. GOOD LUCK!

 

[bluesypicky]

Yeah, I am probably going to go for a "feel touch" of the rod and try to see which way it wants to go, very gently though as it is a 37 years old lady.....
I agree with you about doing the job yourself, it's not that hard when you're just talking adjustments, just a matter of patience, I don't mind detuning and retuning 10 times until I get where I want to be, and who better than me knows where that is? :mrgreen:
And again, as you say what's the worse than can happen? Lose a saddle?
BTW, I always make sure I have several of those before starting the job, because I know chances are I am going to waste the first one unless I'm lucky...

 

[evenkeel]

This is one of the best "How to lower a sadlle" tutorials I've come across.

http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Gu ... ion01.html

Simple, very straight forward.

 

[West R Lee]

But use them sparingly or risk a bunch of buzz.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files ... Files.html

West

 

[bluesypicky]

Thanks West! That's what I was looking for.....