Opinions, please

WC_Guitarist

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No, Hans said "at least 10 years after", so that would make it 1998 or younger. The Maple D-60 was not available in 1997 yet as far as I read. Gruhn wrote it is a continuation of the G-45 Hank Williams Jr. model without Williams endorsement. The catalog page Al posted above was from the summer 1998 catalog.




Ralf


You are correct, thank you for pointing that out, Ralf. Not that the year makes a big difference to me, but it's good to be accurate about the details.

Is that you playing in the demo???

Whoever that is, what a virtuoso!!!! I can't get over how long this guy's fingers are. When he does a bar chord, half of his index finger is sticking up above the neck. I immediately grabbed my guitar to measure my own index finger. :/ It's barely longer than the neck at the first fret. So. Unfair!
 

WC_Guitarist

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Personally, I don't think that price is horrible. Not a steal of a deal but also not outrageous. I've owned both the RW and the Maple D 60 (neither tight now) and both were fine guitars. I did prefer the sound of the Maple over the RW but that's likely just personal preference and I've always preferred Mape as a tonewood.
I am willing to pay the money for a good quality instrument, regardles of make, model, year. $3K seems to be my price threshold, where beyond that I can't go and cannot justify. But when I think of paying that kind of $$$ for a guitar, I will look around and compare what's available new vs. used, what you really get between the different models, brands, etc.

My recently acquired (dirt cheap on impulse) Sigma DM-4 has shown me that yes, I can play a dread. Previously I didn't think I'd be able to because I am a short/small woman, and they are large guitars. I didn't think it would be comfortable to play. Now that I have been playing the Sigma for a few weeks, I've gotten used to it, and it's fine. I want to upgrade to a solid wood, better quality dread at some point. Contenders are Martin D-18, Guild D-20 (new), D-25 used, D-40, D-50, D-55 (new or used) or D-60 (used). I will try out the Martin D-15 again, though I did not like that one when I tried it before. Maple, Spruce, Hog, Rosewood... I'm keeping an open mind. Whatever feels the best and sounds the best and gets me the most bang for the buck under $3K (or thereabouts).

The only thing I don't want is electronics, and I do not want a used/vintage guitar that is going to immediately need to go to the shop for a major overhaul. I'm looking for a guitar I can play the s--t out of right out the gate. :) Looks are the least important, but it has to smell nice. I just read a thread on AGF about a guitar purchase off Reverb where the heavy smoke smell was not disclosed. That would be a non-starter. I'd rather buy something that I've played personally vs. ordering online, but it might not be possible.

Martins, Martins everywhere, but nary a Guild in sight.

Speaking of buying online, has anyone here bought a guild from Calido Guitars in Texas? They are an authorized Guild dealer, and what I like about them is they set up the guitar before they ship it to you. A new Guild may not need much of a setup though, so it could be a moot point.

Please share your experiences.
 

richardp69

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I am willing to pay the money for a good quality instrument, regardles of make, model, year. $3K seems to be my price threshold, where beyond that I can't go and cannot justify. But when I think of paying that kind of $$$ for a guitar, I will look around and compare what's available new vs. used, what you really get between the different models, brands, etc.

My recently acquired (dirt cheap on impulse) Sigma DM-4 has shown me that yes, I can play a dread. Previously I didn't think I'd be able to because I am a short/small woman, and they are large guitars. I didn't think it would be comfortable to play. Now that I have been playing the Sigma for a few weeks, I've gotten used to it, and it's fine. I want to upgrade to a solid wood, better quality dread at some point. Contenders are Martin D-18, Guild D-20 (new), D-25 used, D-40, D-50, D-55 (new or used) or D-60 (used). I will try out the Martin D-15 again, though I did not like that one when I tried it before. Maple, Spruce, Hog, Rosewood... I'm keeping an open mind. Whatever feels the best and sounds the best and gets me the most bang for the buck under $3K (or thereabouts).

The only thing I don't want is electronics, and I do not want a used/vintage guitar that is going to immediately need to go to the shop for a major overhaul. I'm looking for a guitar I can play the s--t out of right out the gate. :) Looks are the least important, but it has to smell nice. I just read a thread on AGF about a guitar purchase off Reverb where the heavy smoke smell was not disclosed. That would be a non-starter. I'd rather buy something that I've played personally vs. ordering online, but it might not be possible.

Martins, Martins everywhere, but nary a Guild in sight.

Speaking of buying online, has anyone here bought a guild from Calido Guitars in Texas? They are an authorized Guild dealer, and what I like about them is they set up the guitar before they ship it to you. A new Guild may not need much of a setup though, so it could be a moot point.

Please share your experiences.

I've bought several instruments from Daniel at Calido. He's a stand-up, honest, salt of the earth kinda guy. Highly recommended.
 

richardp69

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I am willing to pay the money for a good quality instrument, regardles of make, model, year. $3K seems to be my price threshold, where beyond that I can't go and cannot justify. But when I think of paying that kind of $$$ for a guitar, I will look around and compare what's available new vs. used, what you really get between the different models, brands, etc.

My recently acquired (dirt cheap on impulse) Sigma DM-4 has shown me that yes, I can play a dread. Previously I didn't think I'd be able to because I am a short/small woman, and they are large guitars. I didn't think it would be comfortable to play. Now that I have been playing the Sigma for a few weeks, I've gotten used to it, and it's fine. I want to upgrade to a solid wood, better quality dread at some point. Contenders are Martin D-18, Guild D-20 (new), D-25 used, D-40, D-50, D-55 (new or used) or D-60 (used). I will try out the Martin D-15 again, though I did not like that one when I tried it before. Maple, Spruce, Hog, Rosewood... I'm keeping an open mind. Whatever feels the best and sounds the best and gets me the most bang for the buck under $3K (or thereabouts).

The only thing I don't want is electronics, and I do not want a used/vintage guitar that is going to immediately need to go to the shop for a major overhaul. I'm looking for a guitar I can play the s--t out of right out the gate. :) Looks are the least important, but it has to smell nice. I just read a thread on AGF about a guitar purchase off Reverb where the heavy smoke smell was not disclosed. That would be a non-starter. I'd rather buy something that I've played personally vs. ordering online, but it might not be possible.

Martins, Martins everywhere, but nary a Guild in sight.

Speaking of buying online, has anyone here bought a guild from Calido Guitars in Texas? They are an authorized Guild dealer, and what I like about them is they set up the guitar before they ship it to you. A new Guild may not need much of a setup though, so it could be a moot point.

Please share your experiences.

There are a few Guilds listed for sale on this site in the FS/FT section, including a few of mine and a nice GF 30 and a few others as well. Somebody nearly always has something for sale on this site.
 

Br1ck

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I think it's like having a great Chicago dog on the menu of a white tablecloth restaurant. Keep in mind the shop is in one of the nicer towns in the very expensive bay area. Once in a while they will have a Collings or a Martin, but most guitars here are single luthier instruments, though Breedlove makes an appearance. The vintage equivalent is Steve Swan's shop in Burlingame, thought his inventory is slim and he survives on Bass fiddles.
 

banjomike

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It's not just mahogany/rosewood exclusive. Show up with anything other than a CF Martin and you are sure to get the stink eye. My Dad played a Guild F50 Maple in a Bluegrass setting for many years. While not a dread, the F50 definitely lacked the low end punch that the Martins brought to the party. On the plus side, the F50 stayed in tune during the shows, was never in the shop, and blended well with vocal harmony sound the band preferred.

I like the idea of a maple dread in Bluegrass.

As for prices, the D60 RW is on the low end of what I've seen lately. I couldn't find a description on the GC site and the pics show signs of wear and tear. The price might be right for a D60 RW with a few buBut mps and bruises.
This is all very true. Even so, while Martin has always ruled, quite a few of the bluegrass pioneers always used a Gibson. I think the Martin dominance came as part of the folk movement in the early 60s, when the Kingston Trio used them exclusively throughout the early years of the trio.
Their guitars are definitely very good rhythm instruments, especially in the way traditional bluegrass is performed. Bbrut ever since the mid-70s, when the Newgrass Revival and Tony Rice came on the scene, bringing the guitar up front to play extended lead breaks, I never thought the Martins were ever the best for that job.
Interestingly, I saw quite a few Guild dreadnoughts being used for lead work around then. Guilds had primary note clarity and they were louder. Both are very good qualities for playing lead, especially the really fast tunes. Rice actually played very lightly when he was at his top speed, and his bands always dropped their volume a lot when he played the lead in live performance.

His D-28's enlarged sound hole actually raised the overall pitch of his guitar and took away some of the harmonic overtones. But that guitar was pretty unique, and Martin never did capture it as well as Santa Cruz did. Even then, Richard Hoover had to make many tries before he finally nailed the tone. And increased the volume. Tony never went back to the D-28 in live performance once he began using his Santa Cruz model.

Gibson's only guitar that became widely adopted by those guys was the Advanced Jumbo. And an AJ is a much better guitar for a larger band than it is for a soloist or a small group. The company never made enough of them to really dent that market segment. And for whatever reason, the Guild dreads, which were quite popular on the east coast as folk guitars, never were as popular in bluegrass, especially on the west coast.

These days though, even the most traditional bluegrass bands are more open to using other guitars than they ever were before. Bryan Sutton had a lot to do with that, I think, as his 'Banjo Killer' guitar is a handmade Bourgeois that's patterned after an Advanced Jumbo.
While Sutton soon changed to a dreadnought over the BK, he showed what other guitars could do onstage for an entire younger generation of players.

Personally, I like all 3 brands for their differences, and if I was a pro today, I would probably pack all 3 on the road, especially a Guild maple dread. Playing a guitar that can reach high volume is like driving a sports car with a big V-8; when you don't have to use a lot of muscle power to reach good volume, it makes playing lead a much easier task. Pretty much like idling along when the car's speed isn't needed to get me where I'm going.
But like the car, there's always the time when I needed to step on the gas in the middle of a tune. That's when an inherently loud guitar always came into its own. Just a little more exertion produces a lot more volume with no sacrifice in speed of playing.

In 1978, I was in a bluegrass band that was 10 years old that underwent a sudden personnel change. The new guy was a good banjoist and an adequate mandolin player, but didn't play the guitar. So I became the band's guitarist and the other lead player on it at the same time.
My D-28 simply couldn't do both jobs. I was fortunate though, and was able to buy a custom made Macaferri style guitar that had the power to play a good lead on, and though I caught a lot of flack for using it at first, it did the job very well for me. Back then, almost no American players had ever heard of them.

I still have it, but like it happens sometimes, age never helped it. These days, it sounds very tired and worn out when I play it.

While I knew the Macaferri guitars, I never knew they were so lightly built until I owned one. All the guys in Europe who've played them since the 1930s string them with light gauge silk & steel strings. I strung mine with phosphor bronze mediums for far too long.
 

West R Lee

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I'm still trying to figure out what a "Drop D tuner" is? Apparently, according to the first ad, it doesn't work. Just a shot in the dark, but I'd assume the seller means the D string tuner. WC, you said you'd played that guitar? Did you ask about or check the tuners?

Guild D-60 1987​

$2,500.00
  • Built in Westerly, RI
  • top: AAA Sitka spruce
  • back: laminated curly maple
  • sides: solid curly maple
  • bridge & fingerboard: ebony
  • neck: maple
  • nut width: 1-11/16”
  • scale: 25-⅝”
  • finish: nitrocellulose lacquer
  • the drop-D tuner is currently non-functional

Not really a deal breaker, but you might have trouble finding a tuner that matches the 5 older tuner on the guitar. If that's the case, you MIGHT be looking to buy a new set.

Having said that, gosh I loved my maple D30 Dread. And this a a decked out D30. Both beautiful.

West
 

GardMan

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I'm still trying to figure out what a "Drop D tuner" is? Apparently, according to the first ad, it doesn't work. Just a shot in the dark, but I'd assume the seller means the D string tuner.
In the pic of the back, which shows part of the headstock, you can see a mechanical device attached near/in place of the low-E tuner. I presume this device's function is to allow the player to quickly switch between regular and "drop D" tuning, by just moving the lever that is visible.
 

West R Lee

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In the pic of the back, which shows part of the headstock, you can see a mechanical device attached near/in place of the low-E tuner. I presume this device's function is to allow the player to quickly switch between regular and "drop D" tuning, by just moving the lever that is visible.
Ah, interesting. I hadn't noticed that Dave. Thank you sir.

West
 

NM156

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Weren't similar Guilds around $800 new in the 90s? I just recall how nice they were, that they were out of my range and still are with inflation and/or appreciation. Nevertheless, a Guild maple is the nicest sounding guitar I've strummed.

It seems to me that high end stores will often include one item that's a little bit less, for those who can't afford the product but might be talked into a consolation prize.
 

WC_Guitarist

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I think it's like having a great Chicago dog on the menu of a white tablecloth restaurant. Keep in mind the shop is in one of the nicer towns in the very expensive bay area. Once in a while they will have a Collings or a Martin, but most guitars here are single luthier instruments, though Breedlove makes an appearance. The vintage equivalent is Steve Swan's shop in Burlingame, thought his inventory is slim and he survives on Bass fiddles.
Very true. Mighty Fine is definitely in the high rent district, though the whole Bay Area is kind of the high rent district at this point. I had not considered that this was the "low end" guitar in his shop, but yay for me, if I eventually decide to go for it. When I first saw it, I thought for sure someone else would snap it up before I could do all my research (read: whining and convincing my husband that it was a TRUE NECESSITY). I guess if it's meant to be, it will be mine one day. If not, another one will. :0) I love Chicago dogs, BTW. I'm more of a formica diner than a white tablecloth kinda gal.
 

WC_Guitarist

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I'm still trying to figure out what a "Drop D tuner" is? Apparently, according to the first ad, it doesn't work. Just a shot in the dark, but I'd assume the seller means the D string tuner. WC, you said you'd played that guitar? Did you ask about or check the tuners?

Guild D-60 1987​

$2,500.00
  • Built in Westerly, RI
  • top: AAA Sitka spruce
  • back: laminated curly maple
  • sides: solid curly maple
  • bridge & fingerboard: ebony
  • neck: maple
  • nut width: 1-11/16”
  • scale: 25-⅝”
  • finish: nitrocellulose lacquer
  • the drop-D tuner is currently non-functional

Not really a deal breaker, but you might have trouble finding a tuner that matches the 5 older tuner on the guitar. If that's the case, you MIGHT be looking to buy a new set.

Having said that, gosh I loved my maple D30 Dread. And this a a decked out D30. Both beautiful.

West
As it was explained to me, you just flip the lever and you're in drop D. Lift the lever, you're in standard tuning. However, I don't know if this was a feature of every D-60, or you had to special order it. When I go back to the shop to visit again, I will see if I can get the serial number so this gang can help me decode it. I also don't know if all Guilds, all Guild D-60s or just this one are set up so beautifully. The looks made me grab it off the wall; they way it plays makes me want to buy it. The action is really low and fast, and the neck is amazing. It sounds even better than it looks.

God, now I am obsessing over this guitar again!!! (again)
 

WC_Guitarist

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Weren't similar Guilds around $800 new in the 90s? I just recall how nice they were, that they were out of my range and still are with inflation and/or appreciation. Nevertheless, a Guild maple is the nicest sounding guitar I've strummed.

It seems to me that high end stores will often include one item that's a little bit less, for those who can't afford the product but might be talked into a consolation prize.
Yes, please!
 

SFIV1967

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Is that you playing in the demo???
Oh no, not me. This is LTG member voltes5george from Greece who hasn't posted in ages. He owned tons of Guilds, the D-60, Custom Shop F-45ce, the very rare D130e, multiple F-65ce, F-50R, D-55, D-512...

He was somehow related to greek singer Stelios Rokkos who played various maple Guild guitars on stage for many years between 1999 and about 2010. voltes5george said for instance those F-65ce are his as well and Stelios played them:





Ralf
 
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banjomike

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In the pic of the back, which shows part of the headstock, you can see a mechanical device attached near/in place of the low-E tuner. I presume this device's function is to allow the player to quickly switch between regular and "drop D" tuning, by just moving the lever that is visible.
Yup.
The Drop D tuner is a gizmo that appeared in the 1970s.
It's an eccentric cam. The thumb tab controls it. The cam goes next to the string before the string is inserted into the tuning peg.
The guitar string is tuned with the at it's widest spot ben ding the string to the high note, E. When the tab is pushed downward, the cam releases the string a whole step down to D.

They're actually a pretty simple device that's sturdy. Hipshot is the company that makes them. They have several different ones that aren't designed to go on a peghead. I don't know if Hipshot is still in business or not, but they weren't a large company.
A buddy of mine helped design it, and he had several of them on some of his guitars. They were mostly used on electric guitars, particularly the Telecaster, and I've never heard of one breaking. I think the one on that guitar must be simply out of proper position or needs some other adjustment.

They work well, but would be harder to operate on a heavy acoustic bass string than on the electric's lighter gauged bass string. The Telecaster already had a device that could drop the 3rd string a full tone and then raise it back to pitch, so the Tele was a natural for this one. They can be used in performance, and give the Tele some steel-guitar effects.

Banjos have a similar devices that work as a pair that's similar, but can change the pitch of both the 2nd and 3rd strings to give the banjo steel-guitar effects. Steel guitars use knee and foot levers. The pitch raises and lowers smoothly and stops at the correct note in either direction. The best designs can be tuned to any 2 pitches, up or down, and will always stop at the right pitch.

A conventional tuning peg can be used by ear if the peg has a short ratio that doesn't demand many turns of the shaft. The precise note is harder to catch by ear alone though, so the technique is seldom done with conventional tuning pegs.

Earl Scruggs invented the first version, which requires 2 extra tuning pegs (and 2 more holes in the peghead) to operate. They allow the banjo to drop from an open G tuning to an open D tuning while playing.

Scruggs' version worked very well, but they sure messed up the looks of a banjo's peghead, which are typically covered with pearl inlays.
(Earl thought his looked so ugly he covered them with a piece of time he cut from his wife's floor waxer.)
And on some peg heads that are cut in an ornamental shape that often includes a narrow waist cut, they won't work at all. Most banjo peg heads have a figure 8 shape or something even more ornate. It's part of banjo tradition.

About 10 years after Scruggs invented them, another killer banjoist, Bill Keith, invented a new banjo tuning peg that had the D-tuner built inside the gearbox of the peg. These tuners could be used conventionally, like any other good tuning peg, but when set with some tumbscrews on the outside of the gearbox, the peg could be set at any tuning up or down, the player wanted.

These Keith pegs look like conventional vertical banjo tuning pegs from the front, and almost the same from the back. Some Telecaster players adopted one of them for a bass string tuner.
The Keiths were always the most expensive tuning peg on the market. Back in the 60s, a set of Grovers, good planetary tuners, cost $20 for a set of 4. The Keiths cost $50 for two. Equally good vertical tuners mounted on a plate, the kind used on classical guitars, cost $12.

If a banjo player wanted a high-ratio tuning peg, normally 12:1 ratio, the only peg that worked was the Grover Rotomatic. Most banjoists prefer the short ratio still, mostly because the 5-string banjo has so many different tunings. 4:1 changes a string's pitch a lot faster than 12:1.

By design, all the vertical tuners have always had a much smaller gear ratio than the side-geared guitar tuners. A typical banjo tuner has a 4:1 ratio, or lower- 2:1 or even 1:1. Their vertical design allows them to be used on any banjo peghead, and they are easier to grab, as banjos all have a longer scale than guitars.

Just a couple of years ago, this was it. If a player wanted a slower ratio, a sidewinder like the guitar peg was the only way to get it.
But now, there's an entirely different gearing design that's on the market that has never been used before.

Here's the story:

Around 2020, a Canadian guy named Bill Rickard who's a mechanical engineer, miniaturized an entirely different gearing system Frank Ford invented. This system uses cyclonic action to turn the shaft, a very old design that has been used on heavy equipment for a long time.
The cyclone tuner has some big advantages: the peg isn't directly connected to the shaft, so a vertical tuner doesn't have to be set tightly to hold pitch. The peg can be very easy to turn, not so tight as the planet design demands.
The other big advantage is it allows a 10:1 ratio. That's slightly faster than a guitar tuner, but not much slower than the quick-tuning planetary tuner.

They're superb tuning machines, and are costly; a set of 4 costs $200. So far, only the banjo community knows about them, but they would work as well on a guitar as on a banjo for players who use alternate tunings a lot.

That's not the most fascinating part of the story.

Bill is a very singular guy. I've known him for years on the internet as a fellow member of the Banjo Hangout.
Bill first came onto the Hangout to ask a question:

Is there any way a person who only has one arm can play the 5-string banjo?

Bill Rickard had played the 5-string banjo, a dedicated fingerstyle instrument, all his life. Until his 50s.
While he was on a vacation in England, he was riding a motorcycle that collided with a delivery truck. The doctors had to amputate his right arm at the shoulder and his right leg at the hip to keep him alive. Even his shoulder and hip sockets are part way gone.

So the answer that came from the sympathetic members of the Hangout eventually became No.
There was no way he could ever play the banjo again.

That was the end of Bill on the Hangout for the next 3 years. We all thought he would never return.

Once he was finally fully recuperated and accepted his playing days were over, Bill went back to work as an industrial designer. If he couldn't play the banjo any more, he decided could still make banjo parts, so he set about trying to make them. At first, as part of his mental and physical rehabilitation.

He invented an entire workshop he could use in a wheelchair down in his basement, and set about working, all by himself, on making banjo parts. All his workbenches have clamps, servo motors, etc. to replace his missing limbs. Many are those he designed and made himself, though others are standard hardware store stuff.

His wheelchair is motorized, and equipped with hand and foot controls that all plug into his servo stuff on his benches. He's doing saw work, drilling, milling, spinning brass, turning, and polishing, assembly and setup with one hand and one foot.

And his parts are some of the very best that can be made. From the first he offered for sale, they were all top quality.
He's one of only three banjo makers that make all their parts in-house. (except for fret wire. That's a specialized part of the wire industry.)

Eventually, he found a good young apprentice to help him in production, and nowadays Bill is making entire banjos, and producing enough parts his little business is both viable and profitable.
Frank Ford gave Bill is cyclone tuning pegs, so large they can only work on an electric bass, to Bill just to see if Bill could miniaturize them down to the size of a standard planetary tuner. Bill worked on it off and on for years, but he did it. Frank had given up trying by then and wasn't sure the parts could be smaller than his. It was a big challenge for them both.

The Cyclones are the smoothest tuning machines I've ever used, and they hold their pitch better than all others. They are no larger than a conventional Planet, and they even look elegant. They have a graceful curve in the gearbox, which is polished brass. All the buttons are polished hardwoods, though he began using some plastic ivoroid buttons he had made to his specifications due to buyer demand.

The guy is amazing human being. Even the boxes he uses are ones he makes. They all have magnetic latches, and all the lettering is milled into the box surface; no paper labels or printing at all on the box. A supremely good little stash box that will last forever.

They're a drop-in replacement for Grovers, 5-Stars, Gotohs, etc., so they should work on a guitar that has any of those brands, and would be especially good replacements for the wooden friction pegs used on flamenco guitars. Any guitar with a solid peghead would have a drop-in fit, but not on a guitar with a slotted peghead.
 

merlin6666

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The maple D60 is very appealing and I had no awareness of it so thanks for this thread. As for bluegrass music, I don't know much about it but I go to a biweekly bluegrass jam and today I took a six string ukulele and I felt like I was the loudest rhythm player. On other occasions I took my Adamas and I can't hear any of the other guitars over that thing. Big sacrilege I know...
 

wileypickett

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Around 2020, a Canadian guy named Bill Rickard who's a mechanical engineer, miniaturized an entirely different gearing system Frank Ford invented. This system uses cyclonic action to turn the shaft, a very old design that has been used on heavy equipment for a long time.
The cyclone tuner has some big advantages: the peg isn't directly connected to the shaft, so a vertical tuner doesn't have to be set tightly to hold pitch. The peg can be very easy to turn, not so tight as the planet design demands.
The other big advantage is it allows a 10:1 ratio. That's slightly faster than a guitar tuner, but not much slower than the quick-tuning planetary tuner.

They're superb tuning machines, and are costly; a set of 4 costs $200. So far, only the banjo community knows about them, but they would work as well on a guitar as on a banjo for players who use alternate tunings a lot.

That's not the most fascinating part of the story.

Bill is a very singular guy. I've known him for years on the internet as a fellow member of the Banjo Hangout.
Bill first came onto the Hangout to ask a question:

Is there any way a person who only has one arm can play the 5-string banjo?

Bill Rickard had played the 5-string banjo, a dedicated fingerstyle instrument, all his life. Until his 50s.
While he was on a vacation in England, he was riding a motorcycle that collided with a delivery truck. The doctors had to amputate his right arm at the shoulder and his right leg at the hip to keep him alive. Even his shoulder and hip sockets are part way gone.

So the answer that came from the sympathetic members of the Hangout eventually became No.
There was no way he could ever play the banjo again.

That was the end of Bill on the Hangout for the next 3 years. We all thought he would never return.

Once he was finally fully recuperated and accepted his playing days were over, Bill went back to work as an industrial designer. If he couldn't play the banjo any more, he decided could still make banjo parts, so he set about trying to make them. At first, as part of his mental and physical rehabilitation.

He invented an entire workshop he could use in a wheelchair down in his basement, and set about working, all by himself, on making banjo parts. All his workbenches have clamps, servo motors, etc. to replace his missing limbs. Many are those he designed and made himself, though others are standard hardware store stuff.

His wheelchair is motorized, and equipped with hand and foot controls that all plug into his servo stuff on his benches. He's doing saw work, drilling, milling, spinning brass, turning, and polishing, assembly and setup with one hand and one foot.

And his parts are some of the very best that can be made. From the first he offered for sale, they were all top quality.
He's one of only three banjo makers that make all their parts in-house. (except for fret wire. That's a specialized part of the wire industry.)

Eventually, he found a good young apprentice to help him in production, and nowadays Bill is making entire banjos, and producing enough parts his little business is both viable and profitable.
Frank Ford gave Bill is cyclone tuning pegs, so large they can only work on an electric bass, to Bill just to see if Bill could miniaturize them down to the size of a standard planetary tuner. Bill worked on it off and on for years, but he did it. Frank had given up trying by then and wasn't sure the parts could be smaller than his. It was a big challenge for them both.

The Cyclones are the smoothest tuning machines I've ever used, and they hold their pitch better than all others. They are no larger than a conventional Planet, and they even look elegant. They have a graceful curve in the gearbox, which is polished brass. All the buttons are polished hardwoods, though he began using some plastic ivoroid buttons he had made to his specifications due to buyer demand.

The guy is amazing human being. Even the boxes he uses are ones he makes. They all have magnetic latches, and all the lettering is milled into the box surface; no paper labels or printing at all on the box. A supremely good little stash box that will last forever.

They're a drop-in replacement for Grovers, 5-Stars, Gotohs, etc., so they should work on a guitar that has any of those brands, and would be especially good replacements for the wooden friction pegs used on flamenco guitars. Any guitar with a solid peghead would have a drop-in fit, but not on a guitar with a slotted peghead.

Great to see Bill Rickard mentioned here. His is one of the most inspiring stories of somone overcoming profound despair (he says he contemplated suicide after his horrific accident) to become one of the leading banjo makers in the world, whose parts many other makers source.

I knew nothing of Bill's story when I bought my first Rickard banjo; I only knew that it was, IMO, the best sounding openback banjo I'd ever heard.

I now own three Rickards (all with different tone rings) and have upgraded all of them with the 10:1 tuners, which are every bit as terrific as Mike says.

For those curious, Bill tells his story here:


And while you're visiting his site you should check out his banjos. You don't have to be a banjo enthusiast to appreciate the stunning quality of his workmanship.
 

WC_Guitarist

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I'm really grateful to everyone who took the time to reply to this thread. I've had a good night's to sleep on it, and my first cup of coffee, and once again have come to the conclusion that for the money I am willing to spend, I want a new guitar with a warranty and OHSC.

I'm willing to gamble a few *hundred* dollars on a used one, and if it turns out to have some fatal flaw I could not suss out, I can play it that way for a while until it totally fails, and then figure out what to do with it (part it out? hang it on the wall as art? recycle?).

For a few *thousand* dollars, I want everything to be original, and give me trouble free playing, no weird smells, no repaired cracks opening up and no neck resets in my lifetime. Which means that beautiful maple D60 is probably going to remain wall art at MFGs for the foreseeable future, or go home with someone who is a lot more knowledgeable than I am, braver and with more $$$. Unless the price drops significantly, and I don't think that will happen. If by some miracle the price does go way down, I can reconsider.

What a learning opportunity this has been. Between this thread and Jared, BeeCee, and Steverok's recent threads about their own guitar buying experiences, I'm completely convinced I am not a candidate for a vintage guitar. Luckily, there are plenty of new ones. I suspect I will end up rejecting the all mahogany D-20 and the rosewood D-55, and it will come down to a Martin D-18 vs a Guild D-40. They are rough equivalents in quality, style, price, etc. I know I can find one (or more) of each locally so I can play them in person.

Thanks again for your opinions. Very helpful!
 
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