Scored a D4-NT beater today...

[yettoblaster]

Westerly arched back w Grovers.

It has only one real issue: it would need a neck reset soon as its saddle is already pretty much at the minimum, but it still sounds pretty good (light strings on it right now, and for the foreseeable future).

Also has its share of nicks and buckle marks, but no serious bashes. The frets are only slightly worn in the first position. The neck is straight (no back bow, but also no back angle).
No buzzes anyplace the way I play.

If I were going to use my usual preference in strings for acoustic whamming it wouldn't be too long and it would need a neck reset, but I have a perfectly good recent D40 (Tacoma) for those duties. But that's not what I bought it for...

...Lately I've been gigging my D40 at our lil' ol' dinner-jazz jobs because the places are pretty quiet. Usually I would use an electric archtop but the bass player and I both agree that my playing an acoustic makes the band sound really great (we have another guitarist on electric, and we're real compatible). The only flies in the ointment are A) I don't like exposing my nice new D40 to the gig life, and B) When I take a solo it would be nice to have just a bit of boost somehow...

...SOOoooo, when I spied this nicked up -but sound- veteran for REALLY CHEAP I knew it wasn't gonna be a Bluegrasser BUT, it already had an endpin jack and a pigtail inside! Perfect: I can just put my Lawrence magnetic soundhole pickup on this (it has a volume pot built-in), and roll it up a bit for solos, but still have the "acoustic sound" for rhyhm duties.

Excellent (and cheap at $399) solution to keeping my nice new guitar nice and new, but I still get the same neck and feel, and it sounds pretty good even with lighter strings than I would normally use for acoustic duties but will be fine with a little help sometimes from yonder amplification box! 8)

:mrgreen:

 

[taabru45]

He Scorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrres


:lol: :lol: Steffan

 

[killdeer43]

Will there be pics for us to view the score?

Joe

 

[yettoblaster]

Will there be pics for us to view the score?

Joe

Oh yeah. I owe pics of my D40 too. I'll have to have a picture posin' session.

Tonight in my usual noodlin' chair I was goin', "Dang! Even with dead light old strings it sounds really pretty good."
Enough that I can hear the difference between the Sitka topped D4 and the Adirodak D40.

There's really nothing wrong with this guitar (yet) except for the nominal neck angle. The seller has some kind of (phos I think) string on where the wraps of the bass strings don't start until past the saddle. Never seen that before.

I'm betting I could take the bridge down a bit and get the saddle a little lower before having to resort to a neck reset. My plan is to stay with pretty light strings anyway. Maybe it'll never need a reset. 8)

 

[Ridgemont]

I'm betting I could take the bridge down a bit and get the saddle a little lower before having to resort to a neck reset. My plan is to stay with pretty light strings anyway. Maybe it'll never need a reset. 8)

Congrats Yetto,

I would be very hesitant to shave the bridge down even on a beater Guild. But some people do. None of us really know what this guitar has been through in the last 10 years, but I bet with a little TLC and some light strings, it may not require a reset for a very long time.

I bought a used '97 D25 last year with a pretty low saddle as well. I can't really say what happened to it for the first 12 years of its life, but when I got it, I threw on lights and there has been no change over the last year. The action is quite low still. Of course I do not take it gigging or beat the hell out of it, which may change things.

Well, congrats again and PICS please!!!!!!

 

[dapmdave]

I've been wondering how a Bridge Doctor would work in this sort of situation. Considered it? About $25 vs. a reset.

Dave

 

[killdeer43]

Bridge Doctor

Yetto,
I have an extra BD somewhere in my shop and if I can find it and you'd like to try it, send me a PM with your mailing address and it's yours for the asking. :wink:

Joe

 

[yettoblaster]

Thanks guys!
Good suggestions.
Very kind offer killdeer. The top looks pretty normal. I understand the BD concept (I had a Breedlove once that had one OEM).

I think for my purposes it's fine for now. My concern is about any further shifting because it really is sort of at nominal minimums already. Ridgemont makes a lot of sense too.

For now I'll cross my fingers and play it as-is. Time will tell the tale. Couldn't pass on it at the price.

 

[adorshki]

I'm betting I could take the bridge down a bit and get the saddle a little lower before having to resort to a neck reset. My plan is to stay with pretty light strings anyway. Maybe it'll never need a reset. 8)

Congrats buddy! I've seen a few reports like Ridge's about things (like necks) "settling in" so far and then staying there. Guild's original string specs were .012-.054. DO you know what the vintage is? It may very well have a "born on date" on one of the bevel edges of the heelblock. And if this info helps, my D25's bridge is 5/16" at the top of its profile, and I KNOW it's never been shaved.
PS glad to see it sounds like you're doin' well.

 

[yettoblaster]

...DO you know what the vintage is? It may very well have a "born on date" on one of the bevel edges of the heelblock...

You are right: April 5, 1993

Pretty happy with this find (found it at the Guitar Showcase Consignment Shop). The more I look at it, the more I realize it's really no worse than MANY flat-tops (and many Guilds) with what seems like not much saddle showing.

That's always been kind of a gripe of mine ever since I had a used Martin D-18 with a low saddle that sounded dreadful (you should excuse the pun). But this guitar sounds pretty good, light strings and all (must be the scalloped bracing). It's not quite as loud and bright as my D40 with the Adirondak top, but it sounds like a real Guild even so.

I may be able to "freeze" any further progression (if -as Ridgemont says- it hasn't already finished by itself) by using light strings, which I intended when I bought it anyways.

 

[adorshki]

But this guitar sounds pretty good, light strings and all (must be the scalloped bracing). It's not quite as loud and bright as my D40 with the Adirondak top, but it sounds like a real Guild even so.

I don't think a D4 would have rated scalloped bracing. A DV4 might have. I think it's more a product of that arched back. We'll really have to try to get together to do some A/B soon!

 

[plaidseason]

Both the D4 and the (Westerly) DV4 had plain old x bracing.

P.S. I'd shave that bridge down in a second. That's exactly what I did on an DCE1 I used to own and I never once regretted it. Guild paid for that and the setup that followed too (I was the original owner).

 

[yettoblaster]

Both the D4 and the (Westerly) DV4 had plain old x bracing.

P.S. I'd shave that bridge down in a second. That's exactly what I did on an DCE1 I used to own and I never once regretted it. Guild paid for that and the setup that followed too (I was the original owner).

I might take a little bit off, down the road. But not much if what it really wants is a reset. I'd hate to get a reset later only to find out I got the bridge too low. Taking a little off doesn't bother me, but I'd rather do the right thing.

I'm even capable of shimming the neck myself if I could talk someone into steaming it off for me. Over the years I've built complete necks for flat-tops, refrets, etc.

It can wait a while I think. Maybe some day I'll just buy the rig from StewMac and steam it off myself.

 

[taabru45]

Some people use cappachino machines, saw that on youtube....I have a steamer that would probably work if rigged up right too. but I'm not that brave....yet....maybe on a beater guitar....one day...maybe........not..... :lol: :lol: Steffan