Straight neck but low saddle ?

bruno

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I'm looking to buy a 72 D25. Seller sent me a picture with a ruler as I requested, I think the neck looks straight but it's hard to really see because of the angle the photo was taken is far from perfect (is it flush or 1/16 below the bridge?), but the saddle is pretty low. Could that indicate some other potential problem or it's just ajusted for a low action? It was also taken care by a reputable local luthier.
 

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bobouz

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Low saddle, thin bridge, & possible lifting of the bridge. An in-hand inspection by a respected luthier would be best.
 

davenumber2

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Bridge looks like it's been shaved and there's basically no break angle on the high e. I'd say it's overdue for a reset and the bridge will likely need to be replaced when it's done.
 

Br1ck

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Looks to me like you might get some time with it before major work, but not a lot. It isn't good by any means. If you mean the neck is straight regarding relief, or a slight bowing, that is not the major factor regarding action. Much more important is the straightedge to bridge, which in your photo contacts the bridge well below the top of the bridge. It should, for optimal action, be at or slightly over the bridge. If the bridge has been shaved, a too common occurrence, that's too bad, as it is likely Brazilian rosewood. So worst case, you'd need a neck reset, new bridge, saddle and nut, and probably a refret. It is not the guitar to pay more than $800 for. Add a thousand or so to the purchase price. This all without an in hand inspection, so plus one for a pro to look at it.

Worth fixing? An emphatic yes from me. I did just this with my D 35 and I'm enjoying it nine years later. I had a total of $1400 in it when market worth was $900. I wouldn't sell the guitar for that. Some sellers will never be realistic and some buyers will be ignorant. That D 25 looks like a flatback all mahogany, a rare but not exotically rare bird. Other things that I'd look to see are original tuners, three on a plate, if only to verify someone didn't drill the headstock. They aren't great, but they work. It's a guitar I'd want for sure, and preservationist that I am, would slightly, but not exorbitantly, pay more for. All in for $1800 is something I'd do, but I daresay most, won't. All in for $1400, I'd write the check, not that people do that anymore.
 

bruno

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Thanks for all the advices, it gives me a better understanding. I'm ambivalent for a few reasons. First of all, it's a bit complicated to go see the guitar because he's in another town and I have to rent a car to go, so I have to trust the photos and only go there if I really plan on buying.
Second, he's a tad high on the price and he doesn't want to go down. The guitar is on sale for about 18 months and when asked for more details about the bridge, he said I'm too insecure and he should sell to someone else. I mean, if the guitar neck don't need a neck reset in a few years, I'm totally into it. I just don't want a bad surprise. But in the end, I hope everything not too bad because like you said, in good working condition, I'm sure this bird can sing !
 

E-Type

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Thanks for all the advices, it gives me a better understanding. I'm ambivalent for a few reasons. First of all, it's a bit complicated to go see the guitar because he's in another town and I have to rent a car to go, so I have to trust the photos and only go there if I really plan on buying.
Second, he's a tad high on the price and he doesn't want to go down. The guitar is on sale for about 18 months and when asked for more details about the bridge, he said I'm too insecure and he should sell to someone else. I mean, if the guitar neck don't need a neck reset in a few years, I'm totally into it. I just don't want a bad surprise. But in the end, I hope everything not too bad because like you said, in good working condition, I'm sure this bird can sing !
Anyone who blames you for wanting more legit information about what they are selling needs to be avoided. Any seller worth a damn should be willing to give you all the information necessary to know exactly what you are buying. I just had a store tell me that 1/8" action (low E at the 12th) was "low". in fact, I have had sellers tell me that 7/64" is low, and 9/64" is ideal because it "allows you to really dig in."

I bought a D-25 and the seller sent a pic with a ruler hitting just 1/32" below the top of the bridge. But it turns out that about 1/16"-3/32" had been taken off the bridge (which is now only 1/4" tall). With a ruler test, then the ruler would have been 1/8" below the top had it not been shaved. I now have a guitar that has < 3/8" between the low E and the soundboard. I have learned that string height above the soundboard (paired with the action measure) is what you need.
 

Wilmywood

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Bruno for comparison sake here is the saddle on my '72 G37, it's a very low saddle with very small break over angle but just the way it came new. Plays perfectly.
 

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chazmo

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By the way, Bruno, there are some nice D-40 and D-50 models in our marketplace that you should look at if you haven't already. The D-40 is mahogany and the D-50 is rosewood with Sitka tops (not always, but mostly).
 

chazmo

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Fair enough. You might try negotiating with the repairman selling the Hoboken D-40 on the site (I love it), but absolutely... stay within your budget. You won't have any problem finding a D-25 you can afford. Again, be patient!
 

Neal

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I owned a ‘71 D-25 with a low saddle and shallow neck angle for years, and it never budged. I’d want to see a good look at the string height off the 12th fret.

Having said that…

If it is priced the same as others with a better neck angle, pass. If the owner thinks you are too picky, pass. He’s the one who has had it sitting in the shop for 18 months.
 

bruno

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The thing is that in the Montreal area, D25 doesnt show up very often, even less for a flatback D25 like the one I'm looking at. Anyway, I'll try to see it in real life to get a better idea of the condition.
 

Ross

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Lots of good advice here, Bruno. An in-person examination would be worthwhile.
 
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