String change, end of an era?

Bernie

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Don't know if that has been said, but there manifying glasses that can be attached to the glass (above them), and that could be handy if it fits your eyes issue (specialised optometrists would carry them)...
 

MLBob

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Gotcha. Next thing I would recommend (also mentioned above) is a desk-mount magnifier. Most of them suck (I hunted for a good magnifier for years and every one I found was junk), but I've found these to be absolutely top notch. I have an older fluorescent one on my main desk and a newer LED one on my workbench. The one I have is pretty expensive but I easily use it anywhere from 10-100 times a day:


When I'm building something like a tube amp I use it for just about the entire process. I use it for soldering, closeup guitar inspection, troubleshooting damn-near anything - you name it. They make smaller ones and less expensive desktop models, too.

The first one I got as a gift from my wife probably 15 years ago, and while it's showing its age it still gets daily use and I've never had to replace the tube. The new LED models are more robust because LEDs essentially last forever so they can glue it all shut since there's no need to get into it to replace tubes. You can see it in some of my wokbench pics like this one that I posted in the Nixie thread:

70793-8a2fcd7b8ca6f0c96aec5f1fe2f2bae7.jpg


The new one has four levels of brightness on the ring of LEDs that surround the lens. The old one is just on/off because it's fluorescent.

A pretty expensive solution just for string changes but if you find yourself needing more magnification I can't recommend these enough.

I've also got a set of OptiVisors that I use when I need more magnification. I altered these to have LEDs around the lenses:

IMG_2272_800.jpg

Those you can even get at Stewmac. They are the best of the visor type solutions I've found because they flip up easily and they work while you're wearing glasses.
Have been using Opti-Visors with #3 lenses since I started carving birds the '70's. there's a pair in the wood shop and another in the painting studio. An absolute must to avoid eye strain and see my workpieces even when I was a a lot younger. Can't imagine doing the work I do without them.

Over the years, I have certainly reached for them when there is any application where I need to see something better. I had a fixed magnifier / lamp desk- mounted unit once, but ended up giving it away to a friend who does model railroad work . I needed to hold workpieces in my hands and lap at too many different angles while working, as opposed to having them sitting on a fixed, flat surface. The Opti-Visor is perfect for my application.

I like what Gary has cooked up with the added lights on his!
They also make a little swing- away single loupe that can be added to the unit (called the "Opti- Loupe") that can be rotated in front of one of the lenses for ultra fine magnification, and swung back out of the way when not in use.
IMGP9250 (2).JPG

IMGP9892.JPG
 
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Brad Little

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Gotcha. Next thing I would recommend (also mentioned above) is a desk-mount magnifier. Most of them suck (I hunted for a good magnifier for years and every one I found was junk), but I've found these to be absolutely top notch. I have an older fluorescent one on my main desk and a newer LED one on my workbench. The one I have is pretty expensive but I easily use it anywhere from 10-100 times a day:


When I'm building something like a tube amp I use it for just about the entire process. I use it for soldering, closeup guitar inspection, troubleshooting damn-near anything - you name it. They make smaller ones and less expensive desktop models, too.

The first one I got as a gift from my wife probably 15 years ago, and while it's showing its age it still gets daily use and I've never had to replace the tube. The new LED models are more robust because LEDs essentially last forever so they can glue it all shut since there's no need to get into it to replace tubes. You can see it in some of my wokbench pics like this one that I posted in the Nixie thread:

70793-8a2fcd7b8ca6f0c96aec5f1fe2f2bae7.jpg


The new one has four levels of brightness on the ring of LEDs that surround the lens. The old one is just on/off because it's fluorescent.

A pretty expensive solution just for string changes but if you find yourself needing more magnification I can't recommend these enough.

I've also got a set of OptiVisors that I use when I need more magnification. I altered these to have LEDs around the lenses:

IMG_2272_800.jpg

Those you can even get at Stewmac. They are the best of the visor type solutions I've found because they flip up easily and they work while you're wearing glasses.
I have a similar lamp, but on my desk, not my shop table, been thinking about getting another one for there. I also have flip up magnifiers, but their focal length is too short to work comfortably. Another problem, due to my dry eyes, one eye has scarring and even with the sclerals and the buffered saline in them, it clouds the solution and I need to refresh it a couple times a day.
 

Uke

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The older I've become, the more tolerant I've become of older strings that aren't quite up to what they should be. I grabbed one of my classicals the other day to change the strings and wound up just saying "nah!" as I put the guitar back in it's case. The old myth about Robby Krieger playing with rusty strings then occurs to me, and then I let that justify my walkig away. "What Would Robby Do" ?
 

Guildedagain

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Are you actually using “cheaters” as in drug store glasses? If so an actual prescription will do wonders.
My problem with prescription glasses - I can't stand wearing them at all and don't need to - is you got no close up vision. Only readers with greater magnifications can help me see well up close.

I like old magnifiers with glass lenses.

I could change strings without the glasses, but why? Seeing well - in plenty of light - is the key. I most often use a headlamp, since the sun doesn't come out much lately.

I to have a HACK for easing the strings through each time without fumbling; As you unwind the string and get it slack enough to remove, leave the post hole at a 90º angle with the fingerboard, all removal and entry is from the side, a known angle every time.
Wow, just noticed your Sabine ST-1500 tuner. Haven't seen one a those in years. They're great tuners! I used one for a entire decade in the nineties. They were top notch tuners back then and probly still are.
Thx ;[]

I have two of those actually, had the one for decades and received the other with an Autoharp, complete with original manual!

They really are a fantastic tuner, standalone, accurate.

When you tune acoustics that don't plug in, it comes in real handy.

I use a tuning fork as much as I can in a perfectly quiet environment, and prefer to tune using harmonics notes, pulsating/beating too slowly when flat, too fast when sharp.
 

casey2048

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I've generally had no problems changing strings, not my favorite thing to do, but usually went smoothly and could change strings pretty quickly. Tonight, I changed strings on my F212, first time in a while, last couple of string changes were done when it was having some work done on it, so string change came with it. However, this may be my last string change. My eyes have gotten to the point where, even with cheaters, I can't see the string hole, couple that with the "invisibility" of the .008 and .009 in the set, it was near impossible to get them through the holes. I even tried with my magnifying head set, but they're set up so you have to get to close to have much room to work. This is the same reason I gave up working on printed circuits a while back, couldn't see where to solder well. I had to get my daughter to come and look for a bridge pin that had popped and fell on the floor, and mentioned to her that next string change would be by Sam Ash, and she said, teach me, so we started with the last few pairs on my 212, and I think she will do ok. She said it reminded her of some of the jewelry work she does.
Anyhow, after over 60 years of string changing, I think it's the end of an era.
Sounds like you found a great workaround Brad. I'll say too, maybe this is an obvious suggestion, but I've found there's a big difference between changing those tiny gauge strings in the daytime vs. at night. Some sunlight coming through the window can work wonders on sharpening the view. Even though I have decent eyesight, when I'm sitting there trying to accomplish it in the evening under a standard light bulb I have sometimes felt frustrated as well.
 
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Brad Little

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Sounds like you found a great workaround Brad. I'll say too, maybe this is an obvious suggestion, but I've found there's a big difference between changing those tiny gauge strings in the daytime vs. at night. Some sunlight coming through the window can work wonders on sharpening the view. Even though I have decent eyesight, when I'm sitting there trying to accomplish it in the evening under a standard light bulb I have sometimes felt frustrated as well.
Probably, but my bench is in the basement with little to no ambient light!
 

GuildFS4612CE

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My problem with prescription glasses - I can't stand wearing them at all and don't need to - is you got no close up vision. Only readers with greater magnifications can help me see well up close.

I could change strings without the glasses, but why? Seeing well - in plenty of light - is the key. I most often use a headlamp, since the sun doesn't come out much lately.
It's not the prescription glasses...it's your eyes: presbyopia...loss of accommodation ability...age related...when your arms are too short.;)

Regarding 'lights'...Ott for one makes lamps/lights, LED, some dimmable, that produce full daylight range...good for those with cataracts as well as you hobbyists...they may even have a free standing magnifying lamp...haven't looked lately.

And to add to the workaround suggestions: a small LED reading light...gooseneck...positioned facing the headstock, parallel to the fretboard aiming at post height, while you rotate the tuner post will backlight/ illuminate the post hole as you peer down towards the neck...and give you something to aim for.

If you really can't see it, your finger makes a great guide...you should be able to feel the hole with your fingertip pad and then rotate your finger flat pointing at it and lay the string on your finger as a guide and you should be able to feel the tip of the string when it enters the post hole...the 'braille' method so to speak.
 

Midnight Toker

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I have an older one of these table clamp magnifying lamps. (mine has a flourescent ring bulb) Works wonders when I'm soldering or have a tiny splinter. I'd imagine you'd be able to position it to see the entire head of the guitar and the holes in the tuner pegs. Pretty damn inexpensive too!


Six string I can change blindfolded, but w/ the 12, you definitely need to see as everything is jammed so close together.
 

crank

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I have one of those clamped onto my workbench. Picked it up at a tag sale for $5 last summer. Works for me.
 

silverfox103

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I get what you're saying Brad. I wear blended glasses, they do the job. Without glasses, I couldn't pass the visual on the driver test. The things I have trouble with is the tiny tiny print on the tubes of epoxy or super glue. But, I have a magnifier lamp on my workbench, that conquers all.

Your daughter has 40 year younger eyes, let her do the threading and you can take it from there.

Tom
 

GuildFS4612CE

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I have a similar lamp, but on my desk, not my shop table, been thinking about getting another one for there. I also have flip up magnifiers, but their focal length is too short to work comfortably. Another problem, due to my dry eyes, one eye has scarring and even with the sclerals and the buffered saline in them, it clouds the solution and I need to refresh it a couple times a day.
Unfortunately, as I'm sure you already know, treatment/improvement for your corneal issues is limited.

Assume your scleral lens is for distance/mid and the overcorrection lenses are for near vision.

You might be able to get an optical shop to grind you a pair of custom replacement lenses with the right power/focal length to replace the ones in your flip up magnifiers...there might even be a custom shop online...sorry, haven't looked.

If there are any low vision/blind institutions in your area, they might have a lead on custom shops.
 

silverfox103

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Brad, been thinking about your string changing issue. I'm assuming the hardest issue is on the tuner end.

I thought of this, may or may not help, here goes: Staples sells these little adhesive circular markers. There about 1/4 inch in diameter. They come in a package with small sheets of them, in red, yellow, blue and green.


Hand punch, drill or awl a hole in the center. It may be hard to find a punch with a small hole. Have your daughter place them over the hole in the tuner. Then all you have to do is look for the colored marker on the tuner and your real close. I think it will take care of a good part of the problem. It will probably take a little tinkering to figure out making the hole in the marker.

Tom
 

Brad Little

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silverfox103

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I like the paper punch or the leather punch. I like the different size holes that the leather punch has, but I don't like the $117 price tag. I think the problem with either one is that the dot (marker) is 1/4", so the punch has to be probably no more that 1/8". Unless they are very sharp the punch will distort the dot. I'm pretty sure a drill will pull it off of the adhesive backing paper and destroy the dot. Most craft stores sells the paper punch for anywhere between 5 and 7 dollars. But the hard thing is finding one about 1/8".

I'm beginning to think the awl is the best idea, for one it is sharp and should go right thru. I would get a piece of wood, place a sheet of the dots on the wood. With the awl and a hammer, make your holes.

We're getting close

Tom
 

davismanLV

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Tom, we had a hole punch at the barn when I was a kid. We used it to put holes for adjusting our stirrups! Got it at the feed and grain store. Don't remember paying anywhere NEAR $117 for it!!! Gosh!!
 
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