Tuner replacement on vintage D25 and value?

bruno

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Hi ! I'm looking to buy a used D25/35 locally for over a year.

A few days ago, a 1980 D25-CH just popped up, it looks nice overall, but a detail bugs me: the original tuners arent there anymore.
Does the fact that it's not the original tuners should affect the value noticably? Also, am I a weirdo because this detail bugs me?

thx!
 

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davismanLV

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You like what you like, and if it bothers you then it does. Do the original tuners come with it? Maybe in the case or something? Or maybe no new holes were drilled for the new ones and you could replace with something more to your liking? Are those Guild branded tuners? I can't see.
 

adorshki

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Hi ! I'm looking to buy a used D25/35 locally for over a year.

A few days ago, a 1980 D25-CH just popped up, it looks nice overall, but a detail bugs me: the original tuners arent there anymore.
Does the fact that it's not the original tuners should affect the value noticably? Also, am I a weirdo because this detail bugs me?

thx!
Hi Bruno, welcome! D-25's aren't so rare and desirable that the non-original tuners will affect value much. Shouldn't be too hard to find corect replacements either.
 

Heath

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they aren’t original? They appear to be Guild branded…. I know in the 60’s/70’s they had the three on a plank tuners, but I had an 86 that had separate tuners. What leads you to believe these aren’t original?
 

bruno

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they aren’t original? They appear to be Guild branded…. I know in the 60’s/70’s they had the three on a plank tuners, but I had an 86 that had separate tuners. What leads you to believe these aren’t original?
Seller say they are original, maybe he's right, but from my little knowledge, I thought they went from open back tuner to the style of gotoh in the included picture.

Ok, I just made further researchs and yes, they appears to be originals.
 

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davismanLV

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See above!! Are those both supposedly the same guitar??? Because they're not. :oops::rolleyes:

The first photos you showed are Guild branded tuners. Not sure the brand, maybe Shaller? Or not. The second photo is a different serial number with Grover tuners. Which guitar are you looking at????
 

bruno

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See above!! Are those both supposedly the same guitar??? Because they're not. :oops::rolleyes:

The first photos you showed are Guild branded tuners. Not sure the brand, maybe Shaller? Or not. The second photo is a different serial number with Grover tuners. Which guitar are you looking at????
I'm looking at the first one I posted ! The second one was only to illustrate the type of tuner I thought was only used when they removed the open-back railed tuners.
 

bruno

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I think they are shaller m6. From what I read they seems to be good. To me, they reminded me of cheap replacement tuners you buy at the guitar store... ;)
 

Br1ck

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I generally like original tuners, and I like the tuners on my D 35 fine, but I really like the weight savings of open back tuners, and I'd be inclined to change those, So original like my D 35 or Waverlys like my Martin D 35, open back is my preference. .I'm not going to worry about it on a D 25.
 

NM156

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D25 guitars routinely have Grover tuners as a user upgrade, as far as I know. I've seen countless used ads over the years where the seller states the original Guild tuners are inferior. Just an excuse?
 

gscratch

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After struggling with the original tuners on my 1973 D25 all-mahagony, I replaced them with (iirc) Martin tuners in around 1976. I don't find the original tuners, and I may not have kept them. I remember having to enlarge the holes - I still have chills thinking about taking an electric drill to the head. Since I don't intend to sell the D25, any possible loss of value was not and is not a concern.
just my $0.02
 

wileypickett

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After struggling with the original tuners on my 1973 D25 all-mahagony, I replaced them with (iirc) Martin tuners in around 1976. I don't find the original tuners, and I may not have kept them. I remember having to enlarge the holes - I still have chills thinking about taking an electric drill to the head. Since I don't intend to sell the D25, any possible loss of value was not and is not a concern.
just my $0.02

You're brave (or crazy!) to use a drill. Tapered reamers, turned by hand, are the recommended way to enlarge tuner holes. Reamers keep the holes centered -- drill bits can wander -- and there's a lot less risk invoved than when using power tools.
 

Guildedagain

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Drilling usually means chipping. Even with a proper reamer, it's one of my least favorite jobs.

And remember, for every repair, there's about 5 ways to make it worse, and they can rack up pretty quick.
 

schoolie

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The Grover's on my D15m bothered me, so I decided to replace with Gotoh SXN510s which required no reaming of the holes. I did drill through the headstock for the first time in my life, but I managed to fill the hole and use some plastic in acetone to repair the overlay. That's when I decided maybe I should stop improving my guitars :LOL:
 

Br1ck

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The original tuners are Japanese medium cost three on a plate units. They have a low gear ratio that make them feel stiff, which they are. I have the same sort of tuners on my Martin 00 15 12 fret. Never liked them, but like my Guild tuners, they work fine. I can see if you are used to enclosed tuners with a high gear ratio you'd want to replace them, but the guitars are old enough now to respect originality. Gears rarely if ever slip as long as you tune up to the note. I have a 65 Texan with three on a plate Klusons. They are stiff too. Kluson now makes a higher ratio replacement tuner. But I guess my point is they don't need replacing because they function fine. My luthier used the word adequate. Open back modern tuners would be one way to go. But where can I get the original tuners is an often asked question these days.

I have a hundred year old mandolin with a good eighth turn backlash. They hold tune fine.
 

mclkar54

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The Grover's on my D15m bothered me, so I decided to replace with Gotoh SXN510s which required no reaming of the holes. I did drill through the headstock for the first time in my life, but I managed to fill the hole and use some plastic in acetone to repair the overlay. That's when I decided maybe I should stop improving my guitars :LOL:
I've also switched out to the gotoh sxn510,s . But in black Chrome. Great tuners no problems at all. I Also got a set for my d4. Had to round file the post holes for the larger pressing bushings.And I filled original screw holes with hide glue and mahogany toothpick like studs. Refinished back of headstock, and it all looks original. Of course I realize not everyone has a luthiers shop set up ,but it's a pretty simple and painless task. PATIENCE, is the key .
.
 

davismanLV

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I've also switched out to the gotoh sxn510,s . But in black Chrome. Great tuners no problems at all. I Also got a set for my d4. Had to round file the post holes for the larger pressing bushings.And I filled original screw holes with hide glue and mahogany toothpick like studs. Refinished back of headstock, and it all looks original. Of course I realize not everyone has a luthiers shop set up ,but it's a pretty simple and painless task. PATIENCE, is the key .
.
I've been contemplating a repair. Where does one get mahogany toothpicks??
 

BruceGA

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I've never had a problem with the enclosed tuners on my '74 F30r. I've always liked the enclosed tuners as the just look cleaner to me. I have a '40s era Kalamazoo Oriole lap steel that was actually a Gibson second. The plate tuners on it were aweful and I put Grover minis on it. Never be happier with them. Different strokes I guess.
 
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