NBD - Need Expert Input

MartyG

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Beginning to clean this thing - slowly, and want to ask about the fretboard. Looks very dry to me, and need a recommendation about how to clean and oil it. I see tons of videos online, but they are all over the map in terms of "best this" and "best that". So far, I have only used a damp rag to wipe it down (the body that is, not the fretboard) , and that seems to get much of the dust and grime off. I did use Simichrome on the chrome bits - sparingly) Anything I should do beyond that? Should I oil the wood bridge pieces? Naptha? Polish or no polish on the body?

Here's a teaser of progress to date:

PXL_20240416_132949707.jpeg
 

mellowgerman

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Also, while we're on the topic, I actually really liked one of the two "tone suck" settings. I debated just rewiring it to have a proper bypass on one setting and then the usable/likable one of the switch settings... but ultimately I just clipped the circuit out all-together.

Here is a thread I made on the topic with a sound comparison recording. Granted, the harness was not original, but all pots and caps were to original spec
 

twocorgis

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Beginning to clean this thing - slowly, and want to ask about the fretboard. Looks very dry to me, and need a recommendation about how to clean and oil it. I see tons of videos online, but they are all over the map in terms of "best this" and "best that". So far, I have only used a damp rag to wipe it down (the body that is, not the fretboard) , and that seems to get much of the dust and grime off. I did use Simichrome on the chrome bits - sparingly) Anything I should do beyond that? Should I oil the wood bridge pieces? Naptha? Polish or no polish on the body?

Here's a teaser of progress to date:

PXL_20240416_132949707.jpeg
Progress! To clean and condition rosewood fretboards, I like 0000 steel wool, followed by bore oil. There are other good choices as well.
 

mavuser

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I had a suspicion! Though I think the parts that went to you may have been the ones from my 1970 Starfire? Not sure... I've removed at least 2 tone suck circuits that I can remember

yes it is from your 1970 SF cherry red bass. in fact the choke has a '097020' stamp that may possibly reference 20th week 1970
 

chazmo

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So far, I have only used a damp rag to wipe it down (the body that is, not the fretboard) , and that seems to get much of the dust and grime off.
Marty, I'd use 0000 steel wool on the fretboard to get all the gunk off and shine the frets. Then when you're done, after wiping the board off, apply some bore oil (or boiled linseed oil). If you use the steel wool, make sure to tape off your pickups so you don't get magnetic shavings on 'em.

p.s./ I didn't see Sandy's post before I posted it. :D
 

chazmo

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By the way, @MartyG , the bridge looks great after your Simichrome polishing. I've always thought that'd be a great way to polish metal guitar parts, but I don't hear much about people using it.

When I was a cadet at USAFA, we used to polish our belt buckles with Simichrome. It was a big deal and turned some dull stainless steel into a gleaming mirror. :) Since those days (a lifetime ago), I use Simichrome (and Nevr-Dull) on coins sometimes to restore them. It does a job on them (don't use it on silver or gold though).
 

mellowgerman

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I can only think of two Ric model basses with a middle position pup. Which is it? Pics?

Quick Rick veer:

It's a weird one! I couldn't pass it up though... started its life as a 1973 Rickenbacker 4000 in "jetglo" black, but some years back (presumably due to neck issues of some sort) the previous owner had a master luthier make a Hofner-spec short-scale conversion neck for this bass, along with a nitro "fireglo" burst finish, and it was executed magnificently! I even have some photos of the conversion/customization process. I suppose it's a bit of a McCartney tribute piece because it also got a reverse headstock and vintage Hofner staple pickup, though that's not why I bought it. I appreciate his playing and tone, but was never super into the Beatles catalog in its entirety.
The photo shows how I received it... but since they had to remove the mute assembly of the bridge anyway to accommodate the narrow string spacing. there was a convenient stealthy strat-pickup-size cavity there... with a bridge ground wire channel conveniently leading to the control cavity... so ya know... had to take advantage of that opportunity! Now it has a cream colored Lace Sensor "red" pickup in there and wiring consists of the normal 3way switch for neck and middle pickup, master vol, master 10position Tonestyler varitone, Mojotone blender to dial in the bridge pickup, and the aforementioned high pass control for the Hofner pickup. The only visible difference now is the little cream colored pickup mounted inside the bridge, otherwise looks exactly the same.

IMG_20240119_140835455~2.jpg
 
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chazmo

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Quick Rick veer:

It's a weird one! I couldn't pass it up though... started its life as a 1973 Rickenbacker 4000 in "jetglo" black, but some years back (presumably due to neck issues of some sort) the previous owner had a master luthier make a Hofner-spec short-scale conversion neck for this bass, along with a nitro "fireglo" burst finish, and it was executed magnificently! I even have some photos of the conversion/customization process. I suppose it's a bit of a McCartney tribute piece because it also got a reverse headstock and vintage Hofner staple pickup, though that's not why I bought it. I appreciate his playing and tone, but was never super into the Beatles catalog in its entirety.
The photo shows how I received it... but since they had to remove the mute assembly of the bridge anyway to accommodate the narrow string spacing. there was a convenient stealthy strat-pickup-size cavity there... with a bridge ground wire channel conveniently leading to the control cavity... so ya know... had to take advantage of that opportunity! Now it has a cream colored Lace Sensor "red" pickup in there and wiring consists of the normal 3way switch for neck and middle pickup, master vol, master 10position Tonestyler varitone, Mojotone blender to dial in the bridge pickup, and the aforementioned high pass control for the Hofner pickup.

IMG_20240119_140835455~2.jpg
Neat!!! That's a one-of-a-kind Frankenricker!
 

Minnesota Flats

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Much appreciated, and yes, inside the back cover revealed the full number: 122591. Let the cleanup begin!
Hey, now!

That's vintage scunge on there: don't disturb it least you devalue the piece!
 

MartyG

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This will retain plenty of patina, but I can do without the DNA from god knows who. Ignore the wonky bridge supports - they will be sorted when I restring it later in the week. Waiting for the correct Master Volume knob - enroute from another member here. Full pics when I have it completed and the weather permits taking some shots outside. The cherry finish lights up in the sun for sure. Until then...

PXL_20240417_183349970.jpeg

FYI - the J.M. initials near the pickup toggle could be attributed to anyone, but the following bass players (maybe others) share them:

John McVie
Joseph Makwela
John Myung
Jermaine Morgan

I get to choose who this once belonged to - it's my fantasy after all. 🤥
 

MartyG

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Clean-up completed. Not mint by any means, but it's nearly 50 years old and was made to be played. Picked up a Gator case to keep the dust off, but I might want to hang it for a while - it's really a nice looking bass and would make for a nice pairing with my '73 D-25. Getting the itch to learn my way around it, and might invest in some beginner lessons. As always, more pics - before and after clean-up here:

Guild M-85 II Bass - 1975

IMG_7092.JPG

IMG_7096.JPG
IMG_7093.JPG
Yeah - I know about the string snafu, I was rushing to get some pics in the early morning sunlight and they are not tuned anyway - fixing that now...:rolleyes:

Marty
 

Happy Face

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The Deep-Hard switch in the photo shared by @mavuser is super simple; just a passive high-pass switch, which sends the full signal direct to the volume pot in one position and in the other, sends the signal through a capacitor, effectively lobbing off that big boomy low end. This makes a lot more sense than the earlier "tone suck" switch, especially given the massive signal coming from those chrome humbuckers... even with the low end chopped off, it may well still give a bigger signal than your typical Fender bass pickup puts out. Also, when you cut those lows, it can really emphasize the mid frequencies and give you more defined punch (which I'm assuming is the "Hard"). This is actually a mod that I particularly like for blending pickups - my customized Rickenbacker bass has a vintage toaster in the neck position and a Hofner staple pickup in the middle position. Separately both have a nice big tone, but when blended they get a little muddy. I wired up a passive high-pass knob for the Hofner pickup, which allows for a very nice and clean blended tone between the two pickups.

Regarding the 60s / early-70s "tone suck" switch, I have a theory that it may have been designed with the amps of the times in mind? Bass speaker technology and cab design especially was not what it is today, not being able to produce and handle the big low end at higher volumes, so I could see the thinner sounds resulting from the "tone suck" switch allowing for more volume when using something like a vintage Fender Bassman stack. Otherwise, all that big low end produced by a neck-position Bisonic could eat up a lot of the power on tap without having a speaker cab that can properly create and push that signal, leaving us with lower headroom (earlier distortion) and less volume... just a though!
I think you nailed it, Mellow One. Many players, myself included, like to use a high pass filter, especially when using a "lower power" tube amp like a Showman or 100 watt whatever. Why make the amp labor to put out low frequencies no one can hear?

My first rig was a white Bassman with the matching cab. No way it could keep up with clueless guitarists diming a Twin or a pair of Supers in an effort to get that Marshall sound.
 

chazmo

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Clean-up completed. Not mint by any means, but it's nearly 50 years old and was made to be played. Picked up a Gator case to keep the dust off, but I might want to hang it for a while - it's really a nice looking bass and would make for a nice pairing with my '73 D-25. Getting the itch to learn my way around it, and might invest in some beginner lessons. As always, more pics - before and after clean-up here:

Guild M-85 II Bass - 1975

IMG_7092.JPG

IMG_7096.JPG
IMG_7093.JPG
Yeah - I know about the string snafu, I was rushing to get some pics in the early morning sunlight and they are not tuned anyway - fixing that now...:rolleyes:

Marty
While you're at it, Marty, flip the TRC around. Not sure on your bass, but I think it's upside-down.
 

MartyG

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Not this time. The TRC is too wide to fit between the posts if it were flipped.
 
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