Just bought a vintage 1972 D35 "Project"

LateStart · Sep 5, 2014

Another story of the danger of CraigsList...

I just bought my first Guild; a D35 in that will be a bit of a "project". The bad:
> Needs a bridge, existing one is cracked
> Needs a saddle, existing is shaved low
> *might* need a neck reset, I am guessing yes, but time will tell.
> Some wear around the sound hole but the top looks otherwise good
> OHSC beat too hell, but serviceable for storage
> Chip on lower bottom, doesn't affect the structure (see pictures)
> Bought remote based on pictures didn't personally inspect...

The good:
> $300, so there's room for repair budget.
> I have a luthier friend who will do the repairs for/with me, so it won't be an outrageous money pit

I could use ideas on where to get a replacement bridge, best type of saddle and nut replacements, thoughts on how to patch the back damage with least sonic impact are welcome.

No warnings of the long road ahead required. If it doesn't work out to make repairs, I will find it a home and eat the loss(es).

I'll keep you updated as the story progresses...:very_drunk:

[/url]10521205_711364292250489_820774985990344745_o by 1686, on Flickr[/IMG]

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10658797_711364398917145_4036629851842020989_o by 1686, on Flickr

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The rest of the Album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/88029752@N00/sets/72157647238536392/

SFIV1967 · Sep 5, 2014

Welcome to LTG!
I all depends a bit where in the world you are located but two excellent sources for such original parts are:
Hans Moust in the Netherlands (contact via his webpage): http://www.guitarchives.nl/guitarsgalore/index.php
Ken Nash in Connecticut: http://www.theguitarmechanic.com/GuildBridge.html
You might need to tell them the serial number of your guitar to get the correct parts.

As it looks the bridge was already replaced at some time in the past anyway.
With such low shaved bridge and almost not existing saddle it means 100% the guitar needs a neck reset.
Mind the picture you see above is having strings that are not tuned to play! They are just loose over the saddle!
Also it looks like the pickguard might need to be removed in order to cleat the top cracks.
Otherwise a D-35 is a nice guitar, so your luthier should know how to repair all those issues.
Have fun and keep us updated.
Ralf

Neal · Sep 5, 2014

Congratulations and welcome to the forum!

I have owned a '73 D-35 for nearly four decades now, and it has endured a similar negligent lifestyle. Borderline need for neck reset, but it has been that way for a LONG time, so I would first get your luthier friend to check the neck angle and see what you are dealing with.

Mine has a nice, warm tone and decent sustain for mahogany/spruce. It's not the loudest of dreads, but very sweet and a pleasure to strum. Neck seems a bit narrower than some of my other Guilds.

I see these frequently on eBay at $700-$900, so I would say you have room to invest in repairs and still be right-side up.

Neal

killdeer43 · Sep 5, 2014

WELCOME TO LTG and congrats on the D35. Regardless of "the long road ahead" you have one of my favorite Guilds and for 300 bucks and having a luthier friend, you scored!
Stick around and keep us in the loop.

Also, great first post, complete with photos! :rugby:

Joe

mario1956 · Sep 5, 2014

Not that bad. The mahogany on that guitar is very nice.

LateStart · Sep 5, 2014

Thanks for the warm welcome and great ideas. Anyone recognize the tuning machines? They look non-stock but I don't recognize the logo... Any thoughts on what to do with the back crack/chip? I will ask my buddy, but if anyone else has fixed similar issues, I be interested to hear the best techniques.

[/url]IMG_20140904_224638_540 by 1686, on Flickr[/IMG]

PHOTO OF TUNER ADDED - SORRY FOR THE OMISSION 1ST TIME AROUND.

Br1ck · Sep 5, 2014

You and I are about in the exact same place with our D 35s. My 69 needs all the same work. I'm paying full price for repairs without regard to financial sanity. Old guitars deserve to be fixed. Good luck with yours. I personally would not do too much with the battle scars. It is part of it's charm. You need a guitar you can take to open mics and camping without worry. I've got a few angry scratches in the back of mine and about all I'm going to do is get one of those furniture stain sharpies just to blend the color. I paid less than $200 for mine, but that was fifteen years ago.

LateStart · Sep 5, 2014

Br1ck - I want to make it into a 'solid' player that won't have structural problems. My only concern about the back crack is that it not "grow". Other wise, new saddle and bridge. Neck reset if required. If the top needs support I will see what can be done. But this will *never* be a beauty queen. Thanks.

John

mutantmoose · Sep 6, 2014

I'm fixing up one of these (very, very slowly) right now, so I feel your enthusiastic pain.

If the damage on the back isn't moving, then just make sure it is sealed with some kind of finish and leave it alone.

It is not impossible to carve a new bridge to replace the old one. When it gets replaced, a real nice scrape job may actually help improve adhesion, and that is always good for tone.

Pulling the neck off is a PAIN IN THE BUTT. http://summergarageluthier.blogspot.com/2012/10/removing-guild-neck-is-really-tough.html

mario1956 · Sep 6, 2014

Br1ck said:
You and I are about in the exact same place with our D 35s. My 69 needs all the same work. I'm paying full price for repairs without regard to financial sanity. Old guitars deserve to be fixed. Good luck with yours. I personally would not do too much with the battle scars. It is part of it's charm. You need a guitar you can take to open mics and camping without worry. I've got a few angry scratches in the back of mine and about all I'm going to do is get one of those furniture stain sharpies just to blend the color. I paid less than $200 for mine, but that was fifteen years ago.

I have a soft spot for repairable old "snotless" (i.e. has had the snot played out of it) guitars myself. Financial sanity has no bearing on any decision that is made. I just bought a very repairable 1964 F-212 and will share my joy later. The nice thing about these old Guilds is that you can pick one up at a really good price and even if you have to put some money into it you come out with a playable vintage guitar that will just about carry it's weight with anything on the market.

Br1ck and Late Start good luck on your projects and let's keep everyone posted on our joy. :love-struck:

Br1ck · Sep 6, 2014

I'm excited as all get out to get my D 35 fixed after all these years. I probably will not buy another acoustic ( retirement). I'm selling a bunch of unused gear, both musical and audio, to fund the project. I don't need four turntables or three ST 70 Dynaco power amps. Pretty painless really.

I think my acoustic bases will be covered by the D 35 and my Martin M36, unless of course I come upon a sweet deal on an 0 or 00 size parlor guitar. My Beard Goldtone covers my squareneck dobro needs nicely.

Can anyone comment on the quality of the three on a plate tuners?

Like all good techs, mine is backed up months, so patience is the quality I need to cultivate now.

LateStart · Sep 6, 2014

Recognize these tuners..?

anyone recognize the tuning machines. They are non-stock and I don't have a sense of the quality...

IMG_20140904_224638_540

SFIV1967 · Sep 7, 2014

LateStart said:
Anyone recognize the tuning machines? They look non-stock but I don't recognize the logo...

I don't see a picture of them? Can you post one?
Ralf

LateStart · Sep 7, 2014

See tuners added to original post above. Shipping tomorrow, should have it in hand Wed/Thursday.

Br1ck · Sep 8, 2014

Even though your 72 is only two years removed from mine, the bridges are quite different, so contact Hans Moust via e mail and see what he has for you.

I learned from him that this era Guild does not have as great a neck angle as the most acoustics, and thus I may not need a new bridge. Time and a few more measurements will tell.

SFIV1967 · Sep 8, 2014

LateStart said:
See tuners added to original post above.

Those are 70's Made in Japan Gotoh tuners, that is what the company logo on them is. I guess they are pretty good tuners.

I had never seen that specific model of them, somebody else like Hans might know what Gotoh model number that is.
They were also used on some Gibson Les Pauls. Here's a picture from a Les Paul I found on the Seymour Duncan forum:

Ralf

LateStart · Sep 8, 2014

Thank you!

LateStart · Sep 10, 2014

Well UPS says she arrives tomorrow. I think I am going to name her "Alberta" but I will wait and see if the name fits. More pictures when I rip her from the drivers hands tomorrow! Thursday to do the first assessment with my friend. Good times.

LateStart · Sep 10, 2014

Belly Dancer

Well she's here... pretty much as advertised with one additional issue - the top is 'bellied' near the bridge. Don't quite know how this is fixed, but hopefully it is not a *huge* deal. Sound was decent, but the strings were rusty and crapped out, and the strings had been de-tensioned for shipping, so too soon to judge.

As promised, more pictures are attached. The most interesting is the repair receipt from 1977 -- the good ol days:

Set of Gotoh gears - $21!
Replace bridge - $20
Frets, Action, Saddle, Nut - $21
Total... 62.25

[/url]IMG_2511 by 1686, on Flickr[/IMG]

I also have the original warranty card.

Bellying: 2 Quarters and 1 Penny...

IMG_2514 by 1686, on Flickr

[/url]IMG_2515 by 1686, on Flickr[/IMG]

Bad Bridge and what looks like a failed attempt to re-glue...

IMG_2504 by 1686, on Flickr

Neck Angle: Seems not awful given the problems with the bridge/saddle and bellying

[/url]IMG_2517 by 1686, on Flickr[/IMG]

mario1956 · Sep 10, 2014

Probably needs a new bridge plate or there are loose braces. That may have contributed to the bridge failure also.

Just bought a vintage 1972 D35 "Project"

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