Guild gad-30 and gad-f40p differences

[Paul Strum Strong]

What are the differences between the Guild GAD-30E Orchestra and the Guild GAD-F40P Grand Orchestra? How do they differ size wise? especially in body width and depth- how do they differ?
I have a Gad-30 and love it but on a recent trip home I played a friends Gad-F40p and felt like the body was beefier and I could sit up a bit more- better for my back. I wish I had never played it because I am now obsessed with getting one. I wish I could get them side by side because a part of me believes the differences may be so slim it would be stupid to replace my gad-30 with the gad-f40.
Both models are very hard to find. Some on Reverb.
Does Guild still make a grand orchestra? What model would be the closest that they you are producing now to buy?
What are everyones thoughts?
Help talk some sense into me.

 

[Bill Ashton]

For starts, I am the F40P is a 12-fret, so maybe that is what you felt as the difference...also back and sides of Padauk. Also, pretty sure that the F30 is really a "concert" size guitar...???

Gad f40-p

Why can't I find any info on this 12 fret GAD model? Did it not sell well? I've been looking for reviews and also for one for sale. No luck in both cases. What's the story?

letstalkguild.com

 

[davenumber2]

Lo and behold, this one was just listed.

The 40’s also have a larger lower bout like a small jumbo (16”) instead of the 15.5” bout of the GAD30.

 

[Bill Ashton]

Whoa! Killer price! While everything is lower now, this may have been about a (list) $1500 guitar new in 2008, my GAD30PCE was...plus you get the Guitar Center "return policy." This will have bone nut/saddle, plus real Grover Stat-tite tuners.

As @davenumber2 reports, the body is only about 1/2" difference but has a different feel; I think it may be the bridge position as its a 12-fret.

 

[jgmaute]

Lo and behold, this one was just listed.

The 40’s also have a larger lower bout like a small jumbo (16”) instead of the 15.5” bout of the GAD30.

It must have sold, link goes to pages doesn’t exist…what was the price, but I did find this on reverb, https://reverb.com/p/guild-gad-f40p. It’s a nice looking guitar interesting description and it includes what looks like a molded case. I’ve never seen one let alone played one but with 12 frets to the body, a 1 3/4” nut, and a slightly larger lower bout I bet it would be fun to play. Keep us posted Paul on what you do.

 

[davenumber2]

It must have sold, link goes to pages doesn’t exist…what was the price, but I did find this on reverb, https://reverb.com/p/guild-gad-f40p. It’s a nice looking guitar interesting description and it includes what looks like a molded case. I’ve never seen one let alone played one but with 12 frets to the body, a 1 3/4” nut, and a slightly larger lower bout I bet it would be fun to play. Keep us posted Paul on what you do.

I think it was $579 if I’m remembering correctly. Yes, it appears it has sold.

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

Yes it sold. I bought it! Pretty pleased with it for sure. Thank you to @davenumber2 for finding it for me. great price. Unfortunately it arrived with a cracked bridge- see attached picture. I am not sure if it was sold to me this way and not noted or if it happened in transit. Corporate Guitar Center and assigned customer service representative by way of phone number did nothing for me. However my local Guitar Center store in Clearwater, FL came through for me, did the right thing and refunded me some money off my purchase to apply to the repair there at the store. The guitar tech superglued the crack and closed it, installed new pins. He says the pins that were in there looked as if they had been pounded in there. I can see the crack still- looks closed, we will see if it holds. I can wiggle three of the pins a tiny amount. So far holding/ staying in tune. I am going to inquire to Guild as to how much a new saddle would be. This guitar has a deeper sound and widere range it seems when compared to my GAD-30. Wider lower bout by a tiny amount but feels much more comfortable to hold my arm up on. Amazing what a little bit makes so big of a difference.

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

I miss spoke in the post above I meant I’m going to inquire to Guild how much a new bridge would be. Not a new saddle. The bone saddle is fine. Anybody have any thoughts about the above picture of crack and the super glue repair of it? Shaky pins?

 

[davenumber2]

Tight pins can cause that crack for sure. They act as a wedge like if you were splitting firewood. Is the picture after repair or before? The way I would do it is use water thin super glue and work in some ebony dust. Should make it near invisible. As for long term stability, only time will tell.
I know GC took some money off but I’d be hesitant to let their “tech” even restring my guitar. As far as a new bridge, any good luthier/tech should be able to make you one if they are not available off the shelf.
I would bet the bridge was already split when they sent it. GC is pretty good for leaving out details such as this. Their condition grades mean essentially nothing. If I'm not sure I always ask for better detailed pics from the actual store and they usually oblige.

 

[midnightright]

Wishing the best resolution for you & that hopefully when it is all said & done, you've got one really great guitar!

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

Tight pins can cause that crack for sure. They act as a wedge like if you were splitting firewood. Is the picture after repair or before? The way I would do it is use water thin super glue and work in some ebony dust. Should make it near invisible. As for long term stability, only time will tell.
I know GC took some money off but I’d be hesitant to let their “tech” even restring my guitar. As far as a new bridge, any good luthier/tech should be able to make you one if they are not available off the shelf.
I would bet the bridge was already split when they sent it. GC is pretty good for leaving out details such as this. Their condition grades mean essentially nothing. If I'm not sure I always ask for better detailed pics from the actual store and they usually oblige.

No this is before repair. I know how the repair is supposed to go, I read a lot about it after I received the guitar in that condition. Sadly the tech did not do your second step of mixing cavity dust to cover it. The pic of it after repair is attached. Yes if I get a new bridge I definitely will be taking to someone reputable and not guitar center. Until the crack spreads and I decide I have to do the new bridge is there any other part of the guitar I should worry about damaging?

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

I should also mention that the rest of the guitar looks brand new. There are two teeny tiny scratches on the body. Everything else looks like it was just bought

 

[davenumber2]

No this is before repair. I know how the repair is supposed to go, I read a lot about it after I received the guitar in that condition. Sadly the tech did not do your second step of mixing cavity dust to cover it. The pic of it after repair is attached. Yes if I get a new bridge I definitely will be taking to someone reputable and not guitar center. Until the crack spreads and I decide I have to do the new bridge is there any other part of the guitar I should worry about damaging?

The dust is just to hide the repair. It should be fine with just glue. I'd just keep an eye on it. Don't let it keep you from enjoying your new guitar!

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

I live near Tampa Bay can anyone recommend a luthier of great quality in the greater Tampa bay area? For when I do decide to get the bridge done.

 

[adorshki]

No this is before repair. I know how the repair is supposed to go, I read a lot about it after I received the guitar in that condition. Sadly the tech did not do your second step of mixing cavity dust to cover it. The pic of it after repair is attached. Yes if I get a new bridge I definitely will be taking to someone reputable and not guitar center. Until the crack spreads and I decide I have to do the new bridge is there any other part of the guitar I should worry about damaging?

Congrats and welcome!

Don't bother contacting Guild for a bridge, they've been sold twice since then and no spares for that GAD series were stocked in US. Domestic repairs weren't anticipated, and replacement of the instrument was the preferred warranty satisfaction method. It was actually cheaper overall.

Also, the series itself was replaced by the "Westerly Collection" and things lik pinhole spacing may no longer match, we've already seen one example of that.

Re luthiers in FL at least, you may want to contact our member Fixit (Tom Jacobs) who's got universal 5-star ratings here for quality and price. (NO relation/connection/interest): http://www.jacobscustomguitars.com/

It occurs to me that since those are poly finished some luthiers may not want to risk damaging the finish when replacing the bridge since poly finishes are extremely difficult to touch up.

You'd be doing yourself a favor to make sure whoever you get quotes from is aware of that.

 

[davismanLV]

I live near Tampa Bay can anyone recommend a luthier of great quality in the greater Tampa bay area? For when I do decide to get the bridge done.

Not exactly near you, but highly recommended and valued here on the forum. Tom Jacobs (forum name Fixit) has his guitar shop in Merritt Island, FL. Many, many people use him regularly and he's one of the BEST!! Check him out.

Jacobs Custom Guitars – Custom Guitars & Guitar Repair

www.jacobscustomguitars.com

 

[Bill Ashton]

The OP is closer than I am in MA! Make it a road trip, man! Garonteed you will find no better

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

Oh my. The bridge is lifting up now . Half is down and half is lifting up. What should I do? Should I loosen the strings until I can get fixed? Stay away from playing it?

 

[davismanLV]

Oh my. The bridge is lifting up now . Half is down and half is lifting up. What should I do? Should I loosen the strings until I can get fixed? Stay away from playing it?

Loosen the strings immediately!! If that bridge lifts off it could cause SO MUCH damage!!

 

[Paul Strum Strong]

I loosened them (good amount of play in strings now) and put it in the case. It can be repaired right? I need to find a luthier I can trust close to Tampa or Lakeland.