Help me sort out what to do…

Rayk

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The last time I commented about straps it didn't go well. :poop:
Al , their always making improvements such as moving the battery packs to the back to improve balance . That’s all I’m saying on the topic . 😂🤣
 

chazmo

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@E-Type yes the builds did get significantly heavier towards the mid-70s. The 1970 guitars I've owned were super light builds and I loved them. At some point in the '70s they started building some models of Guilds necks with padouk which (I think) was denser than mahogany and the guitars got heavier (for that and I presume many other reasons).

Anyway, my $0.02 is to return it. It doesn't sound like you're enamored so keep searching.
 

Boomstick

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I'm not the best one for advice. I have a bad back and I play a F-50. It's one of the heaviest acoustics I've ever played, but also the best sounding, so I won't give it up.
 

E-Type

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My '72 G37 is extremely light, much lighter than even a '78 G37. May be because the '72 has a mahogany neck and the '78 is 3 piece maple.
I didn't know they made G-37 in '72. Archback? Maple back and sides? You may have tipped off my next obsession!
 

E-Type

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I'm not the best one for advice. I have a bad back and I play a F-50. It's one of the heaviest acoustics I've ever played, but also the best sounding, so I won't give it up.
I used to play seated, but then once I joined a group that is beginning to play out, in front of an audience, I realized I need to stand. Now I hardly ever sit to play. But I have lusted after more than one 70s-80s F-40 until I find they are closer to 6 lbs than 5!
 

E-Type

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@E-Type yes the builds did get significantly heavier towards the mid-70s. The 1970 guitars I've owned were super light builds and I loved them. At some point in the '70s they started building some models of Guilds necks with padouk which (I think) was denser than mahogany and the guitars got heavier (for that and I presume many other reasons).

Anyway, my $0.02 is to return it. It doesn't sound like you're enamored so keep searching.
I'm back and forth. I love the sunburst and it's neck angle is better than either of my D-25s, but it also really needs a refret (first second and third frets are shorter than 0.03" tall). I have an appt with my luthier tomorrow to check it out. If he gives it a clean bill of health (other than the frets), I may keep it. We'll see!
 

Wilmywood

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I didn't know they made G-37 in '72. Archback? Maple back and sides? You may have tipped off my next obsession!
Yes, archback, maple back and sides, mahogany neck. Later models have 3 piece maple necks that are a bit thicker. I have had a DV-52 and DV-62, as well as a DCE-1, DV6 and DV4, and the G37 is at the top of my list.
 

E-Type

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Yes, archback, maple back and sides, mahogany neck. Later models have 3 piece maple necks that are a bit thicker. I have had a DV-52 and DV-62, as well as a DCE-1, DV6 and DV4, and the G37 is at the top of my list.
Damn, there is a '72 G-37 on Reverb right now. Hmmmmm.
 

E-Type

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Yes, archback, maple back and sides, mahogany neck. Later models have 3 piece maple necks that are a bit thicker. I have had a DV-52 and DV-62, as well as a DCE-1, DV6 and DV4, and the G37 is at the top of my list.
I just traded messages with the seller of a '72 G-37. He says the strings are 3/8" off the top (pretty low) and the action is 6/64". I asked if the bridge had been shaved as I think many BRIDGES were 3/8". I am not sure I need another in need of a reset!

EDITED (I assumed his 3/16" should have been 3/32" or 6/64" as he said the action was really good, I was wrong, he actually did mean 3/16"):
I just traded messages with the seller of a '72 G-37. He says the strings are 3/8" off the top (pretty low) and the action is 3/16". I asked if the bridge had been shaved as I think many BRIDGES were 3/8". I am not sure I need another in need of a reset!
 
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Boomstick

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I used to play seated, but then once I joined a group that is beginning to play out, in front of an audience, I realized I need to stand. Now I hardly ever sit to play. But I have lusted after more than one 70s-80s F-40 until I find they are closer to 6 lbs than 5!
Yeah, that makes total sense really.

I just traded messages with the seller of a '72 G-37. He says the strings are 3/8" off the top (pretty low) and the action is 6/64". I asked if the bridge had been shaved as I think many BRIDGES were 3/8". I am not sure I need another in need of a reset!
I also have a G-37, it's a very nice sounding guitar. Mine has great action too. I haven't weighed it, but it feels about average weight, likely under 5. I'm personally partial to maple guitars for what it's worth.

I just restrung it with D'Addario XTs last night and recorded some clips. The XT's add some lows and highs and change the attack a bit.

For comparison, this was back in April with Martin strings. After that, I had put on DR Veritas which are my favorites, but sound like the Martins with more mids.

 

crank

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Get a gibson Les Paul. Play that for a month. Go back to your Guild and it will feel light as a feather. Or get a stool.

My '81 G37 is heavy as #@$.
 

adorshki

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I didn't know they made G-37 in '72. Archback? Maple back and sides? You may have tipped off my next obsession!
NO, introduced in '74, maple body archback. Not even on Nov. '73 price list which it would have been if introduced in '72.
Yes, archback, maple back and sides, mahogany neck. Later models have 3 piece maple necks that are a bit thicker. I have had a DV-52 and DV-62, as well as a DCE-1, DV6 and DV4, and the G37 is at the top of my list.
Wilmy, is there a date stamp on a top brace that you can see? All info I've ever seen says G37's first year was '74.
Also, '72 s/n's were 61464-75602, is it in that range?

Damn, there is a '72 G-37 on Reverb right now. Hmmmmm.
I'd check that s/n. ;)
 

adorshki

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I just traded messages with the seller of a '72 G-37. He says the strings are 3/8" off the top (pretty low) and the action is 6/64". I asked if the bridge had been shaved as I think many BRIDGES were 3/8". I am not sure I need another in need of a reset!
The true measure of a need for reset is the neck alignment check on Frets.com. And there was a period in mid '70's when Guild bridges were exceptionally thin
 

E-Type

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The true measure of a need for reset is the neck alignment check on Frets.com. And there was a period in mid '70's when Guild bridges were exceptionally thin
I have three early '70s guilds in the house atm. On two of them, the bridges are convex and max height is 0.325". On the other one, the bridge is actually slightly concave and maxes at 0.225". That shape allows a straight edge to almost sit on top of the bridge, but the D string is only 0.36" above the top. Frets.com mentions the qualification that a bridge has not been shaved down too far. I am getting all this from the linked page here: Frets.com on neck angle
 
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E-Type

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I just traded messages with the seller of a '72 G-37. He says the strings are 3/8" off the top (pretty low) and the action is 6/64". I asked if the bridge had been shaved as I think many BRIDGES were 3/8". I am not sure I need another in need of a reset!
I just got clarification, the action is actually 3/16" which the seller says is appropriate for acoustics. He accused me of overthinking it and that only electrics have action as low as 3/32".
 

Christopher Cozad

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...And there was a period in mid '70's when Guild bridges were exceptionally thin
The challenge here is twofold:
  1. In order to keep a given instrument playable, its bridge may have been shaved (planed, sanded) to reduce its height, such that a straightedge laid across the fretboard just kisses the top of that bridge. But the bridge is likely now too small.
  2. A very thin bridge may have originally shipped with a guitar, but that most assuredly does not mean the bridge was sized correctly in the first place. A bridge's height is only one factor in determining a its efficacy.
 

E-Type

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Yeah, that along with a pat on the head, and a warm "Give me your money and don't get in the way of my transaction" goes a long way, here.
When I asked about the weight, his response was "I have never weighed a guitar and I never will, but with laminated back and solid maple sides, they are not light." I'd love to ask about the serial number, but I doubt he'd even respond at this point.
 

Wilmywood

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NO, introduced in '74, maple body archback. Not even on Nov. '73 price list which it would have been if introduced in '72.

Wilmy, is there a date stamp on a top brace that you can see? All info I've ever seen says G37's first year was '74.
Also, '72 s/n's were 61464-75602, is it in that range?


I'd check that s/n. ;)
I have not checked for that but I did run the serial number by Hans, and he said completed in '72 I bought it in early '73 if I recall correctly, it was the first one my local music store saw. My serial is 72805
 

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GardMan

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NO, introduced in '74, maple body archback. Not even on Nov. '73 price list which it would have been if introduced in '72.

Wilmy, is there a date stamp on a top brace that you can see? All info I've ever seen says G37's first year was '74.
Also, '72 s/n's were 61464-75602, is it in that range?


I'd check that s/n. ;)
Actually, yes... see page 126 of Hans' book. "Some '72 models are known to exist..."
 
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