In the Market for an Affordable Vintage Guild (D-15 or 25). What to look out for?

[GeoffHW]

Hi everyone.

Just joined and its my first post here. Fell in love with a 2017 Guild D-20E priced at $800 at my local shop and unfortunately it was bought before payday came along. Ever since I have been beating myself up for no pulling the trigger on it when I had the chance and can't shake the idea of not owning a Guild.

I just got back into guitar and bought a Martin 00-18. While I'm learning a lot, what I've really learned is what I want in a guitar. And for me, Guild seems to fit the bill.
Now I could hunt down another D-20E for $800, but I think that was a once in a lifetime deal in this economy and for how perfect the condition was.

Now I am looking to similar options in a similar price bracket. Yeah, I can spend $2500 on a nice D-40. But I live in a humid environment and running a dehumidifier 24/7 since I've got my Martin is sorta annoying. I want something durable that I don't have to worry too much about leaving out. I'd like to keep the thing by me 24/7 and not in a case most of the day.

So I learned about the Guild D-15 and D-25. Both seem to go for around $600-$1000 depending on condition. The laminate back tells me humidity would not be as much of a concern as with a solid wood body guitar. And they seem to sound plenty good for me.

Just wanted to hear from you experienced Guild enthusiast what I should expect to pay, what to look out for, specific years to avoid or go for, etc.

It's my understanding that the D-15 and D-25 had arch backs as well as flat backs depending on the year. What would be the tonal difference? Do any years have different neck shapes? Are there any years I should avoid?

Lastly, should I expect to have to get a neck reset? I'd hate to spend $500 on a guitar and then $800 more on a neck reset. It's my understanding that Guild's cost much more than a pretty penny to repair.

Thanks in advance!

 

[chazmo]

Welcome aboard, Geoff!

You asked a huge question, and I'm sure many of our seasoned members will chime in or point you in the right directions.

Too bad you missed that deal on the Oxnard-built D-20. Great guitar by most accounts.

As for your choices, particularly if you're willing to buy an older guitar, they are virtually endless. There is an enormous market of D-25s out there -- well, by Guild standards anyway -- and check back with us if you start looking at specific cases. There is variance among them depending on the era and we can clarify for you.

Again, welcome aboard, and enjoy the hunt. My only real advice for you is that patience is a virtue!

 

[midnightright]

Hi, I like D-25's. I'd say you still may notice the effects of humidity, in particular to the top which might still swell. Though hard to tell, until you get it in your environment. And perhaps. how many other sweaty seasons its been through in it's life? If you can find one from a reputable shop that looks it over, and gives it a clean bill of health, or lists the necessary repairs that are in order, that should help you to make your decision.

If you buy from a private seller, I might buy from someone with a good track record, as in feedback, and that also has a return policy that lines up with what would be considered satisfactory to you. Some people like to bring them into their luthiers and have them give an assessment. Before deciding on whether or not to keep it.

Mostly, D-25's had arched backs, depending on era & year. Though I don't want to misspeak, so I'll leave that/or those exact & precise years to the experts. D-4's from the 90's are very similar to D-25's in terms of build construction as well. And usually, on average, cheaper. Good luck! And not as familiar with firsthand experience with the D-15, but I have heard good things. So hopefully, others will be able to fill you in on those as well.

 

[portsider]

I am mainly a 12 string guy, but my D15 is just amazing. It rings and sings and is very easy on the fingers.
You can pick one up pretty cheap, but still in good shape. They were entry level Guilds at the time they were in production and I am sure a good number were given up on by beginners and stuck in a closet. Therefore you see them in pretty good shape a lot of the time.

 

[Br1ck]

When you say vintage it's a very broad range of years according to what you think vintage is. Price seems to be foremost in your thoughts, so one needs to look at something from early Westerly as a potential for likely repair sooner or later. It's akin to buying a 70 car. You need to know the pitfalls. I was lucky to get my 70 D 35 for $250 twenty some years ago, but I soon spent $1100 getting it playable. Chances of finding a playable D 25 from the early 70s for $600-800, ell that ship has sailed.

If vintage to you is 90s, then you have a fair chance at a D 25 with life left in it right at $1000. That would be worth it. Those I've seen on Craigslist $800-1000, but not frequently. And my favorite thing is an older guitar post neck reset. These won't be cheap, but you won't wait months for the work to be done either. The problem is that historically they haven't been worth fixing. When I did my D 35 I had about $400 more into it than it was worth. No regrets, but buying something in good condition and paying more is to me a good approach.

 

[adorshki]

When you say vintage it's a very broad range of years according to what you think vintage is. Price seems to be foremost in your thoughts, so one needs to look at something from early Westerly as a potential for likely repair sooner or later. It's akin to buying a 70 car. You need to know the pitfalls. I was lucky to get my 70 D 35 for $250 twenty some years ago, but I soon spent $1100 getting it playable. Chances of finding a playable D 25 from the early 70s for $600-800, ell that ship has sailed.

If vintage to you is 90s, then you have a fair chance at a D 25 with life left in it right at $1000. That would be worth it. Those I've seen on Craigslist $800-1000, but not frequently. And my favorite thing is an older guitar post neck reset. These won't be cheap, but you won't wait months for the work to be done either. The problem is that historically they haven't been worth fixing. When I did my D 35 I had about $400 more into it than it was worth. No regrets, but buying something in good condition and paying more is to me a good approach.

Since then hasn't the market appreciated to the point where you're finally ahead of the game again, especially when you factor in value of playing time and satisfaction?

(Raising the point for our new member @GeoffHW that repair costs on the right instrument can be rightfully considered an investment, rather than an unrecoverable cost that won't be offset by increasing market value over time)

 

[Br1ck]

Sure. I would not sell it for $1400 though. I was not upset when it was worth $1000 either. Time will add value to any US built solid wood guitar. Value has only been thought about when it comes up in a topic, or I marvel at the cost difference between my SCGC and the D 35. The D 35 is every bit as engaging, just in a different way. They both have really good necks.

 

[twocorgis]

Hi everyone.

Just joined and its my first post here. Fell in love with a 2017 Guild D-20E priced at $800 at my local shop and unfortunately it was bought before payday came along. Ever since I have been beating myself up for no pulling the trigger on it when I had the chance and can't shake the idea of not owning a Guild.

I just got back into guitar and bought a Martin 00-18. While I'm learning a lot, what I've really learned is what I want in a guitar. And for me, Guild seems to fit the bill.
Now I could hunt down another D-20E for $800, but I think that was a once in a lifetime deal in this economy and for how perfect the condition was.

Now I am looking to similar options in a similar price bracket. Yeah, I can spend $2500 on a nice D-40. But I live in a humid environment and running a dehumidifier 24/7 since I've got my Martin is sorta annoying. I want something durable that I don't have to worry too much about leaving out. I'd like to keep the thing by me 24/7 and not in a case most of the day.

So I learned about the Guild D-15 and D-25. Both seem to go for around $600-$1000 depending on condition. The laminate back tells me humidity would not be as much of a concern as with a solid wood body guitar. And they seem to sound plenty good for me.

Just wanted to hear from you experienced Guild enthusiast what I should expect to pay, what to look out for, specific years to avoid or go for, etc.

It's my understanding that the D-15 and D-25 had arch backs as well as flat backs depending on the year. What would be the tonal difference? Do any years have different neck shapes? Are there any years I should avoid?

Lastly, should I expect to have to get a neck reset? I'd hate to spend $500 on a guitar and then $800 more on a neck reset. It's my understanding that Guild's cost much more than a pretty penny to repair.

Thanks in advance!

Welcome to LTG! Decent D15s and D25s can still be found for reasonable prices if you're patient. An approximate location might help us spend your money for you. We're good at that!

 

[GeoffHW]

Welcome to LTG! Decent D15s and D25s can still be found for reasonable prices if you're patient. An approximate location might help us spend your money for you. We're good at that!

Houston, TX! Found a guy about 2 hours from me selling a D-15. Unfortunately he went out of town this weekend (the weekend I happen to be in his city) so I'll have to meet him another time to take a look at his D-15.

 

[Westerly Wood]

While I'm learning a lot, what I've really learned is what I want in a guitar. And for me, Guild seems to fit the bill.

Hey Geoff. We can tell already you are a highly intelligent person. Happy to help.

Welcome to the LTG.

I own an original D25, which is a flatback all mahogany dread, really their bottom of the line acoustic dread from 1968 - 1972 ish. It gets cloudy after this period for a couple years or at least 18 months when Guild started to put out arched back all hog dreads, also called D25s before they went all arched with spruce tops for the rest of 70s and 80s. Thus, most “D25”s out there on reverb etc are spruce top, hog b/s arched dreads. There are loads of them and many for around $800. Still the best value American made dread to this day. The flats are priced higher due to their rarity, but not cause they are better.

The D25 then disappeared for a while, till it returned in a flatback version in different colors. Those are also out there.

Good luck with the search. It’s a valiant quest. I still hope one day to get an arched back D25.

 

[Harp Tail]

Second Chance Gear | Reverb

Shop Second Chance Gear on Reverb

reverb.com

This seller on Reverb has both if you'd like to have a look.

 

[GeoffHW]

Second Chance Gear | Reverb

Shop Second Chance Gear on Reverb

reverb.com

This seller on Reverb has both if you'd like to have a look.

thanks for the help! I'll take a look.

 

[chazmo]

Harp tail is quite the enabler, Geoff. We've very good at spending your moola.

 

[GeoffHW]

Second Chance Gear | Reverb

Shop Second Chance Gear on Reverb

reverb.com

This seller on Reverb has both if you'd like to have a look.

Checked them out and really having a hard time deciding between the two! Both are in my budget. The rarity of the D-25 cut away (haven't seen any guild acoustics with that until now) is really calling to me but that tortoise shell truss rod guard on the D-15 is really making that guitar pop! I guess its a question of full hog vs spruce top.

 

[Harp Tail]

You're quite welcome, GeoffHW.

I'm sorry but in a way you're in bad company here.. we're known to have multiples of the same guitar model and not finding it odd in the least way.

 

[chazmo]

Geoff, unless you have a need for the cutaway, go for the standard version. Screw the rarity. That's not an issue, really.

 

[GeoffHW]

You're quite welcome, GeoffHW.

I'm sorry but in a way you're in bad company here.. we're known to have multiples of the same guitar model and not finding it odd in the least way.

I know it. I am already anticipating having multiple D-25 and D-15 for the simple fact that they are affordable enough to justify having more than one of.

 

[GeoffHW]

Geoff, unless you have a need for the cutaway, go for the standard version. Screw the rarity. That's not an issue, really.

I find myself playing an acoustic like an electric so I could see it being of benefit. But I also wouldn't want to sacrifice any tone for the easier fret access. Not sure if cutaways really make a difference in that department as I've never owned one.

 

[chazmo]

Oh, that's a good point, Geoff. Well, use your judgement, man. Whatever you do, I assure you we'll support it and push you into more Guilds.

 

[mavuser]

did not read all the replys, and I could make this a really long post...but...in short, I would
recommend just buying the Oxnard D-20. So you missed out on one, that one wasn't meant to be. If you find another, it may not have electronics (they no longer offer that for D-20, post covid), and you may even find it is just easiest to buy a new one, if so it will be brand new and unplayed, and under warrantee. Any Guild is great but that is my 2 cents. good luck!