I beg to differ on being able to repair poly there's info online about doing so but Im going to do a spot repair with fiberglass resin but I'm not I hurry to do so as its on my old Ibenaz Mc 400 around the input Jack .
Oops posted by boo boo , not done Tee hee ... ��
It is possible to repair poly. Taylor has a course on how to do it with their finish. Doing it without leaving any witness lines is a whole different story. It is extremely difficult. Poly finisheS, after the catalyst has done its job, cannot be un-catalysed. Nitro, when repaired, literally dissolves and re-dries or hardens. The new nitro cannot be separated from the old nitro. The repair on a poly finish, is sort of like the patches that they put on ruts/potholes on roads. Both are asphalt; both are black (more or less), and they are NOT one and the same. Over and above that, do you honestly beiieve that any luthier, will have the ability to invest in the various different solvents, UV lamps, and poly finishes to match all the various finishes used by the different companies? That is extremely unrealistic. Taylor, being the size that they are, can offer those courses and tools. Do you think that other companies will (Yamaha, Blueridge/SAGA, etc.)? And by the way, all poly finishes are not chemically the same, because unlike nitro, there are many types of poly (polyester, polyurethane, UV catalyzed, chemically catalyzed, and so on). When you throw around "poly", undestand that you are talking about a vast spectrum of finishes, not just one, that are chemcially extremely diverse.
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Ok back to poly , the newer poly blends allow thinner coats unlike yester year and will also allow the woods to resonate as it ages . My Blueridge poly is about as thin as anything I've ever seen you can see highs and lows of the wood grain in the Adirondack top .
Here's a good read , I just wanted to copy the point of it but it was forbidden lol
But it's still a good read .
http://proguitarshop.com/andyscorner/nitro-vs-poly
Not arguing ����
Its nice that the poly finish on your Blueridge is clear enough, and maybe thin enough, to allow you to feel the wood grain. Know that, however thin your Poly finish is, it is thicker than a good Nitro finish would be. Poly finishes cannot even be put through a spray gun that is set up for nitro. It may appear to be thinner, but it isn't. It also won't get any thinner as time goes on. Once the catalyst is consumed in the process of hardening the poly finish, the poly finish is done, it won't change chemically in any way. Nitro continually outgasses, getting thinner with the passage of time. The other part of this is that nitro also crystallizes, meaning the out-gassing of the solvents leaves solids behind, These solids tend to improve the tone of the guitar. While it may look to be very hard, poly is actually somewhat flexible, and doesn't change over time as discussed above. This acts as a very slight tonal absorption. That will NOT get better with time.
Ask any great hand builder if, regulations permitting, if they would prefer to shoot poly or nitro. I guarantee that the answer, 100% of the time will be nitro. The move to poly was forced by two major things: how fast the guitar could be assembled (no guitars sitting around for the nitro to dry, catalyse it, and straight to the buffer. ), and VOC regulations. Note the lack of any tonal considerations. Everything to do with poly finishes is related to factors other than tone.