adorshki
Reverential Member
For more than a couple of weeks at elevated temps like mid 90's and above, it could tend to loosen the glue. Also promote mold in dusty bodies. I'd try to find the coolest driest place possible in those conditions.
Seasonal neck adjustments on acoustic guitars?
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Br1ck
Senior Member
Every year this subject comes up, and every year I'm glad to live in coastal California, where every guitar with a crack has usually come from somewhere else.
Yeah, the Bay Area's pretty easy on guitars, Br1ck. But, once you start going inland.... 
This is why glued wooden acoustic guitars were never popular in the tropics (I hear they were actually banned at one point unless they were epoxied. That way they could double as life rafts). Only welded metal horns can be played in humid environments (they can be blown out to clear the mold and dust). But care must be exercised - if those humid temperatures get much higher than Al's mid-90s, you can burn your lips.
At one time I was obsessed with setup and was constantly measuring string height and relief. I was tweaking it all the time. But several years ago I just lost interest in fiddling around with it all the time and since have just left it alone. I haven't noticed any difference playing wise than when I was constantly adjusting it. I think that before, I wasn't doing it for any other reason than I kept measuring it.
Here the temperature is quite low by now (around 20° celsius - 68°F -). But humidity is higher than the recommended 45/55 %. I'm worried coz I had binding detachment on one guitar and though it's not linked to humidity, I've been told by a very respected luthier, I still have fear to see it happen again...
Thanks Al for infos
Thanks Al for infos
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adorshki
Reverential Member
You reminded me for the first couple of years I did tweak the truss on the D25 like monthly, but only slightly, for relief. I was OCD. After the second ref-ret it came back so perfect I barely ever touch it, just when going to the Silk'n'bronze strings as mentioned previously.
I think a guitar does tend to "settle in" to an ideal distribution of tension over the years, according to the wood's specific grain characteristics. Then tends to stay there for years and years (like a neck-set angle) unless subjected to unusual conditions.
Explains why sometimes a belly can literally be pressed out but frequently returns, especially as the top dries out again.
adorshki
Reverential Member
adorshki
Reverential Member
The humidity is more dangerous for glue at higher temps, more susceptible to mold at lowers ('80's) but prolonged exposure (again a couple of weeks or more) would be cause for concern, unless you were at sea, in which case worrying is useless.Here the temperature is quite low by now (around 20° celsius - 68°F -). But humidity is higher than the recommended 45/55 %. I'm worried coz I had binding detachment on one guitar and though it's not linked to humidity, I've been told by a very respected luthier, I still have fear to see it happen again...
Thanks Al for infos
Why useless to worry when at sea ? (but I'm not at sea right now, just sometimes in summer - about 50+ kms away -)...
I have never measured the string height on my G37, I go by feel, and I get the height just above buzz level. In fact, I will put up with a tiny bit of buzz to get better action.
adorshki
Reverential Member
High humidity is a given, not much you can do about it. Thus "Worrying (about the humidity) is useless"
Bernie, do you have a picture of the binding damage you were referring to?Here the temperature is quite low by now (around 20° celsius - 68°F -). But humidity is higher than the recommended 45/55 %. I'm worried coz I had binding detachment on one guitar and though it's not linked to humidity, I've been told by a very respected luthier, I still have fear to see it happen again...
Thanks Al for infos
My initial guess is that it has nothing to do with humidity or temperature abuse, but I'd need to see it to advise.
No I have no photographs, and it's been repaired since then (not well) : many Martins have had that issue and it's been discussed many times on the LTM (UMGF), so unless it happens to me again... (don't even open my guitar case anymore ), I won't have any either (but it's always the same, at the waists for coz of serious lack of professionalism, using previously untested - 'environmental friendly'- glue on shrinking materials, ever since 2012 !!). I've had 3 binding damages (of which 2 in the same place). Who you said?, Martin ?, and those guys make guitars ? Humm !
(UMGF), so unless it happens to me again... (don't even open my guitar case anymore ), I won't have any either (but it's always the same, at the waists for coz of serious lack of professionalism, using previously untested - 'environmental friendly'- glue on shrinking materials, ever since 2012 !!). I've had 3 binding damages (of which 2 in the same place). Who you said?, Martin ?, and those guys make guitars ? Humm !What can be done to lower humidity rate if it remains between 60 and 70 for several weeks - with a temperature between 14° and 21° or 22° celsius (about 58 to 72 F I think) as worrying is useless ?High humidity is a given, not much you can do about it. Thus "Worrying (about the humidity) is useless"
Apart from an occasional twist with my Allen key ?
Perhaps resolve the problem in a different way: Consider investing in a carbon fiber guitar, a guitar that remains relatively unaffected by humidity. That would let you shift focus from humidity issues to getting that first wicked scratch that won't polish out.
adorshki
Reverential Member
That humidity at that temp wouldn't worry me too much, but one could use dessicant gel packs in the guitar case.What can be done to lower humidity rate if it remains between 60 and 70 for several weeks - with a temperature between 14° and 21° or 22° celsius (about 58 to 72 F I think) as worrying is useless ?
Apart from an occasional twist with my Allen key ?
I must confess I chose an extreme example of humidity (on a boat) more for humorous purposes than anything else, but we have seen a couple of stories over the years.
Tip: Get a laminated top for a boat guitar. They're warp/crack resistant.
Now that I think about it though, most guys with boats seem to talk about a negative return on investment.
For that purpose, you're better off just sticking to guitars, especially Guilds..
Yes I love all-solid-woods guitars, and its within that category I'm looking for relevant solutions. Didn't have any issue with Guild guitars, so that may be seen as a good and relevant answer, what you say Al. But I don't only own Guilds, and so far I'm not ready to change, if ever... Dessicants may be cheaper than a Rainsong, an Ovation or else, too...
I was thinking of other solutions like air dryers or others, if some of you have experience. But If Guilds can swim, that may not be the right place ...
I was thinking of other solutions like air dryers or others, if some of you have experience. But If Guilds can swim, that may not be the right place
...
Bernie, do you have air conditioning in your home? That usually takes the humidity out of the air, as does radiator-based heat. In summers here (very humid) I run my A/C in parts of my house and also run dehumidifiers in my basement, but I don't keep my guitars near the A/C. Winter here requires adding water via a humidifier as well as RH gets below 30% often.
With regard to humidity, Bernie, it's really only long-term exposure to really dry air that will potentially cause your guitar to shrink and crack and/or break braces. This has happened to me, personally, so I'm very careful about it now. Don't allow your guitars to suffer from that.
On the other hand, high humidity can soften glues, but most guitars can swell a bit without causing permanent damage.
All temperature extremes are bad for solid wood guitars, but indoor temperatures are rarely a concern, Bernie unless you are living in 90degF heat for extended periods. If your guitar is cased indoors, then it's highly unlikely that temperature will be a factor for you unless you take a hot case and open it in a cold environment or vice versa. That can cause finish cracking on lacquer-based guitars, such as US-built Guilds.
Good luck, and stop worrying. Just don't let your guitars dry out; that's a lesson you can learn from me.
With regard to humidity, Bernie, it's really only long-term exposure to really dry air that will potentially cause your guitar to shrink and crack and/or break braces. This has happened to me, personally, so I'm very careful about it now. Don't allow your guitars to suffer from that.
On the other hand, high humidity can soften glues, but most guitars can swell a bit without causing permanent damage.
All temperature extremes are bad for solid wood guitars, but indoor temperatures are rarely a concern, Bernie unless you are living in 90degF heat for extended periods. If your guitar is cased indoors, then it's highly unlikely that temperature will be a factor for you unless you take a hot case and open it in a cold environment or vice versa. That can cause finish cracking on lacquer-based guitars, such as US-built Guilds.
Good luck, and stop worrying.
Just don't let your guitars dry out; that's a lesson you can learn from me.
Oh, and never, ever, under pain of death leave a guitar in the trunk of your car during a hot day.