What is the best solid body Guild electric guitar?

lungimsam

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Which model is the "best", however you define it?
Let's see if a consensus arises to one model for the same reasons.
 

johnreardon

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There is no ‘best’ in anything let alone solid body Guild guitars. It’s all down to personal preference.

I used to have a Bluesbird and it was ok for me, however I preferred Les Pauls, so sold the Bluesbird.

For me, Guild is more ‘defined’ by acoustic and semi hollow guitars, but I’m sure some here will offer their opinions.
 

GGJaguar

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For me it's the 1963-65 S-100 Polara with the "frequency tested" single coil pickups. The reason is that I prefer single coil pickups and the ones on the early Polara are killer. They chime, they can growl and it's a total rock n roll machine. Plus the guitar looks cool and is light weight. YMMV.
 

fronobulax

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Are Nightbirds and Bluesbirds slabs of wood or are they sometimes chambered? If so does the distinction between solid and chambered matter to the OP?
 

spoox

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For me it's the 1963-65 S-100 Polara with the "frequency tested" single coil pickups. The reason is that I prefer single coil pickups and the ones on the early Polara are killer. They chime, they can growl and it's a total rock n roll machine. Plus the guitar looks cool and is light weight. YMMV.
My first Guild and only guitar for 7 years. I have to also throw my two '67 S-50s into the ring that have the same pickups. I really love my
S-300 but overall I guess I too prefer single coils.
 

Rocky

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The one currently in my hands.

But it's the Nightbird Custom. :)
Nightbird GG, actually. But, I'm not certain that they qualify. If not, the mid-70s version of the S-100.
 

cupric

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Are Nightbirds and Bluesbirds slabs of wood or are they sometimes chambered? If so does the distinction between solid and chambered matter to the OP?
Solid mahogany bodies. They are chambered.
Edit: the newer Blues birds were chambered. There were solid Blues birds previous. All Night birds are chambered I believe.
 
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Norrissey

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'71 S-100. Although I have to confess I haven't tried any other Guild solid bodies (yet) Still, this S-100 is killer, lightweight, fast comfy neck, great Hagstrom Tremar. The early HB-1s sound a bit like PAFs or Patent Number Pickups.

IMG_3163.JPG
 

GAD

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'71 S-100. Although I have to confess I haven't tried any other Guild solid bodies (yet) Still, this S-100 is killer, lightweight, fast comfy neck, great Hagstrom Tremar. The early HB-1s sound a bit like PAFs or Patent Number Pickups.

IMG_3163.JPG
Holy moly
 

lungimsam

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Are Nightbirds and Bluesbirds slabs of wood or are they sometimes chambered? If so does the distinction between solid and chambered matter to the OP?

Definition of solid body for the purposes of this thread:
1. The Guitar is classified as a “solid body guitar” by Guild. “solidbody” or “solid-body” is fine, too.
2. Any voids in the solid slab body must be routed into the body’s solid slab.
Addendum to “1”:
Chambered is fine, too, as long as the harness electronics are housed and easily accessed in a body slab-routed cavity under a cavity cover, or mounted to pickguard in the same way a non chambered solid body has them mounted and harness is then secreted, resting aloft, within the confines of a solid-slab route or routed trenching. No pulling harness electronics through f-holes or pickup route access holes should be required.
 
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tonepoet

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Which model is the "best", however you define it?
Let's see if a consensus arises to one model for the same reasons.
Man, that's a tough call. I have liked all the Guild solid bodies I've played. An interesting thing about the ones I have from the late 70s and 80s is that almost all of the bodies are one solid slab. Even a beat up black sparkle X-79 I stripped and refinished had a one-piece solid slab of poplar that I refinished natural with a cherry stain.
1688748310655.jpeg

Guild S-25 --- one solid slab

1688748858882.jpeg

Guild M-80 --- one solid slab

1688748906868.jpeg

Guild S-300AD --- one solid slab

1688748995345.jpeg

This S-284 is a two-piece body but it was the optional maple body that was solid maple, not just a veneer top.

1688749113453.jpeg

I guess I would have to judge my favorites by the ones I play the most, which are currently the Detonator and the S-280 from the 80s. But, as I say, I like all the Guild solid bodies I have had my hands on. They are all quality built. Of them I've had, I would say the weakest is the S-270.
 

GAD

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You might be surprised. I bet that S300 is at least 2-piece. Look carefully at the grain lines under the smaller horn.

I've noticed this on a couple of my S300s where I was convinced that the guitar was a single piece only to discover an absolutely masterful joint that someone took real care to hide. I talk about it in my S300AD review:


That said, there are absolutely some one-piece bodies out there. My S65D appears to be a one-piece body and it rings like a freaking bell.
 

mavuser

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My Nightingale is unmatched in many ways, I couldnt be happier with it. I certainly do not consider it a solid body guitar, however (even if it has a back door).

For a true solid body guitar (or SF 4/5/6)...I like the neck mounted at the 18th fret!!

For a 16 fretter the Nightingales and Nightbirds are absolutley top shelf (and my Carlo Greco Chief Star). But they are not solid bodies.

A telecaster, for me with Lace Sensor pickups, is the 16-fret solid body of choice. that is long scale however. I have my original Gibson Melody Maker/LPJ also (short scale solid body 16 fretter).

nothing feels like my S-50's or S-100. Sold my SG, LP Jr, a different melody maker...
 

GAD

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My Nightingale is unmatched in many ways, I couldnt be happier with it. I certainly do not consider it a solid body guitar, however (even if it has a back door).

For a true solid body guitar (or SF 4/5/6)...I like the neck mounted at the 18th fret!!

For a 16 fretter the Nightingales and Nightbirds are absolutley top shelf (and my Carlo Greco Chief Star). But they are not solid bodies.

A telecaster, for me with Lace Sensor pickups, is the 16-fret solid body of choice. that is long scale however. I have my original Gibson Melody Maker/LPJ also (short scale solid body 16 fretter).

nothing feels like my S-50's or S-100. Sold my SG, LP Jr, a different melody maker...

I find your preference for neck joint position fascinating, mostly because I've even noticed where my necks join.

What is it about the difference that makes you prefer the 18-fret option?
 
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