While I'm not sure a 12 string is what I want, this popped up and looks interesting. It's about 2 hours away and I would HAVE to go through Lake Tahoe to check it out. Poor poor pitiful me right?
https://reno.craigslist.org/msg/d/1980s-guild-12-string-electric/6246208923.html
If dating's correct, it's a D-212 or D25-12, different names for a 12-string D25.
Looks like factory volume/tone knobs, just don't ever recall seeing the lead visible through the soundhole like that before.
Not even sure what they were using then, think it might be a little early for Fishman UST which became the standard by early '90's at least.
Label should read "D2512
e" (or D212e) if that's a factory installation.
Reports are that the technology of the era can be disappointing compared to modern stuff. (If it
is a Fishman it might actually sound pretty decent)
Assuming bridge's ok (no lift, no belly) and no other issues, $575 with case sounds like a pretty darn good deal for a Guild 12-er.
Be aware 12-string necks are kinda wide and flat but if you're looking primarily for a strummer you might be
real happy.
Also noticed saddle looks a little wonky, like higher on treble side than bass, and low on bass side besides.
Can tell it's not original because it's compensated, but maybe the guy just likes an unusual set-up.
Update... Also saw this pop up. I like the idea since I'm a product of the mid 70s as well. It's pretty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guild-D44M-...201497?hash=item33d44dd059:g:uMgAAOSw7GRZBnld
That
is a maple-bodied D44. I see some warning signs: Crack in top, need to verify it's been cleataed properly.
Action
does look pretty high, saddle looks kinda low on treble side, but most of all what's that drip coming out of the heel right underneath the fretboard?
Never seen that on a re-set job before.
And it doesn't look like hideglue, let's hope to heaven it ain't epoxy.
It'll
never come back apart.
So it brought up a thought. As I was reading that Guild neck resets can be marginally more difficult and costly than other brands, if a Guild has been reset once, would that make the job somewhat easier the next time?
That would depend entirely on the quality of the first reset.
Assuming joint was cleaned up properly and hideglue used again, possibly marginally easier.
If reset with a resin glue lie Tote-bond, might be easier yet, that stuff breaks loose at lower temp, more quickly, but Guild used hide-glue throughout Westerly production, as it's got the best "creep resistance" of all woodworking glues.
But that's one of the things that makes 'em a little tough to break loose sometimes.
The flip side of the coin is that if the neck's been reset once, it may not need another one during your ownership lifetime.
I figure minimum 20-year service life using light gauge strings, and we've got guys here with 30+ year old guitars that haven't needed one yet.
FWIW, I'm not so interested in excellent appearance as I am decent playability. All I'm mostly doing for the time being is chording in the cowboy pocket (at least when I'm playing to 6th graders), so it brings up the issue of cost vs condition vs mojo. If a nice vintage piece came along that needs attention later, it might be ok. Just a thought.
Thanks again.
Ryan
Given that, I'd ask the guy with the 12-er if he can show you a neck alignment photo (Ruler extended from fretboard to bridge) and action at 12th (should be 6/64
max with a saddle height of roughly 1/8" (higher would even be better, up to about 5/32, then there's plenty of room for lowering.
I'm kinda leery about that D44, no matter how pretty that back is....