Guilds with 1 & 3/4" nut

[wileypickett]

Many members here have said that any nut less than 1.75" wide is just too small for their freakish, baseball mitt-sized hands.

I know this has been discussed in many threads, but maybe there should be a central place for a list of guitars that have 1 & 3/4" wide nuts?

We can archive and update and refer people to it when the question arises again, which it surely will. Unless there already is such a page?

This occurred to me because I was playing my GV70 today and noticed the nut felt roomy. I got out my caliper, which says the nut is 1.74" wide, which comes close enough to count.

So, first entry:

GV70

 

[SFIV1967]

Give me input what to add here.

6-string Guilds with nut width > 1 11/16":

1 3/4 nut:
A-25 (Westerly)
A-50 (Westerly)
AO-3CE Arcos (MIM)
AO-5CE Arcos (MIM)
AF-50E Arcos (MIM)
AF-50CE Arcos (MIM)
CD-1 (Tacoma)
CO-1 (Tacoma)
CO-1C (Tacoma)
CO-2 (Tacoma
CO-2C (Tacoma)
CV-1 (Tacoma)
CV-1C (Tacoma)
CV-2 (Tacoma)
CV-2C (Tacoma)
Willy Porter Signature Model (Tacoma)
D-120 (MIC)
D-120CE (MIC)
D-125 (MIC)
D-125CE (MIC)
D-140 (MIC)
D-140CE (MIC)
D-150 (MIC)
D-150CE (MIC)
DD-6MCE Doyle Dykes Signature Maple (NH)
DD-6RCE Doyle Dykes Signature Rosewood (NH)
CS 60th Anniversary F-30 Koa (NH)
CS F-30 Reno's Custom Star (NH)
CS F-30R Reno's Custom Star (NH)
F-30 Standard (NH)
F-30CE Standard (NH)
F-30R Standard (NH)
F-30RCE Standard (NH)
F-130 GAD (MIC)
F-130CE GAD (MIC)
F-130R GAD (MIC)
F-130RCE GAD (MIC)
F-150 (MIC)
F-150CE (MIC)
F-150R (MIC)
F-150RCE (MIC)
GAD-4N (MIC)
GAD-5N (MIC)
GAD-30 (MIC)
GAD-30PCE (MIC)
GAD-30R (MIC)
GAD F-40P (MIC)
GAD JF-48 (MIC)
GSR F-30 Maple (NH)
GSR F-30CE Cocobolo (NH)
M-20/M-20E (Oxnard)
M-25E (Oxnard)
M-40/M-40E (Oxnard)
M-120 (MIC)
M-140 (MIC)
OM-120 (MIC)
OM-140 (MIC)
OM-140CE (MIC)
OM-150 (MIC)
OM-150CE (MIM)
P-240 Memoir (MIC)
R-30S Roundneck Resonator (NH)
X-150 prototype from 1953

Models that specified 1 11/16" but some of them were shipped with nuts closer to 1 3/4":
Artist Award (Westerly), at least one in 1996.
D-40 (Hoboken), a brief period (1963/1964) when the D-40s had 1-3/4" nuts (and a flat fretboard)
DV-7x (Westerly), some of the DV-7X series from 1994-1995
GV-70 (Westerly)

1.80" nut:
Orpheum Jumbo (NH)
Orpheum Orchestra Mahogany (NH)
Orpheum Orchestra Rosewood (NH)
Orpheum Slotted-Headstock Mahogany (NH)
Orpheum Slotted-Headstock Rosewood (NH)
Orpheum 12-Fret Slope-Shoulder Mahogany (NH)
Orpheum 14-Fret Slope-Shoulder Mahogany (NH)
Orpheum 14-Fret Slope-Shoulder Rosewood (NH)

1 7/8" nut:
R-33SE Squareneck Resonator (NH)
R-35SE Squareneck Resonator (NH)
R-37SE Squareneck Resonator (NH)

1.9" nut:
DD-6NCE Doyle Dykes Signature Nylon (NH)

2" nut:
The Mark series of nylon string guitars

2 1/16" nut:
GAD-C1 (MIC)
GAD-C2 (MIC)
GAD-C3 (MIC)


Ralf

 

[cutrofiano]

also 1 3/4:
F-150R CE (GAD)

 

[HeyMikey]

Technically you could add the NH F30CE Std and F30RCE Std, NH Reno F30R, Reno F30RCE and variants.

 

[GardMan]

Do you want to include Guilds that have been found to differ from the 1-11/16" in their specifications? That would include a some of the DV-7X series from 1994-1995 (all three of my DV-7Xs are closer to 1-3/4" than 1-11/16", and others have confirmed the same)...

IIRC, there was also a brief period (late 60s?) when the D-40s had 1-3/4" nuts (Hans could likely confirm the date range or tell me I'm nuts)...

 

[SFIV1967]

Do you want to include Guilds that have been found to differ from the 1-11/16" in their specifications? That would include a some of the DV-7X series from 1994-1995 (all three of my DV-7Xs are closer to 1-3/4" than 1-11/16", and others have confirmed the same)... IIRC, there was also a brief period (late 60s?) when the D-40s had 1-3/4" nuts (Hans could likely confirm the date range or tell me I'm nuts)...

Sure, why not. I opened a new category for them, Glenn started already with the GV-70.
Ralf

 

[Rayk]

I’d like a bit wider then 1.75 and a wider string spacing on the bridge if it needs it .

 

[wileypickett]

Something I like about old Guilds (and it's probably true of all makers who carved their necks by hand) is that there are variances. The intended specs weren't entirely consistent.

 

[GGJaguar]

My Artist Award is 1 3/4".

 

[jfilm]

My D-40 is 1 3/4", it's a '64

 

[SFIV1967]

My Artist Award is 1 3/4".

Obviously one of those exceptions, because the 1996 and 1997 catalogs spec'ed her with 1 11/16":

Ralf

 

[GGJaguar]

Obviously one of those exceptions, because the 1996 and 1997 catalogs spec'ed her with 1 11/16":

Believe me, it was a surprise. It actually feels even wider - more like 1 13/16". I wonder if it could have been a special order or just "natural" variation in nut width.

 

[HeyMikey]

Many members here have said that any nut less than 1.75" wide is just too small for their freakish, baseball mitt-sized hands.

I know this has been discussed in many threads, but maybe there should be a central place for a list of guitars that have 1 & 3/4" wide nuts?

We can archive and update and refer people to it when the question arises again, which it surely will. Unless there already is such a page?

This occurred to me because I was playing my GV70 today and noticed the nut felt roomy. I got out my caliper, which says the nut is 1.74" wide, which comes close enough to count.

So, first entry:

GV70

I wonder about the GV50 and the GF60. Any intel on those?

 

[mavuser]

just picked a late 1964 M-20 Economy. nut width is 1+11/16" and a fat neck. every other Hoboken M-20 i've ever encountered (about a dozen 1962-1970) had an identical, to each other, 1+5/8" nut, with relatively shallow neck carve.

 

[tommym]

Some of the guitars in the list had wider string spacing at the bridge too!

Tommy

 

[Heath]

My ‘66 D40 also appears to be 1 3/4”

 

[donnylang]

Is there really a significant perceptible difference between nut widths of 1+11/16" & 1+5/8" when you factor in variables such as neck shape, string spacing, saddle, etc.? Seems to me there are 3 Guild nut widths on the vintage acoustics I've owned: The wide 2" (classicals and early 12-strings), the "skinny" kind (dreadnoughts), and the "inbetween" of the '66 and later 12 strings. Personally, the thickness of the neck in combination with the general setup of the guitar has more to do with the playability than the nut width. That is to say, I don't think I could make a determination of how a guitar will feel based on nut width.

 

[wileypickett]

Is there really a significant perceptible difference between nut widths of 1+11/16" & 1+5/8" when you factor in variables such as neck shape, string spacing, saddle, etc.? Seems to me there are 3 Guild nut widths on the vintage acoustics I've owned: The wide 2" (classicals and early 12-strings), the "skinny" kind (dreadnoughts), and the "inbetween" of the '66 and later 12 strings. Personally, the thickness of the neck in combination with the general setup of the guitar has more to do with the playability than the nut width. That is to say, I don't think I could make a determination of how a guitar will feel based on nut width.

I'm with you Donny. I can usually tell the difference in nut widths (more or less) but my fingers quickly adjust to whatever guitar I'm playing -- one width or another doesn't make a lot of difference to me.

However, having been on LTG for several years now, I know many people here can not ony tell the difference, but can tell it acutely, to the extent that they will not buy or keep guitars with too narrow (or too wide) nuts. Certain nut widths, apparently, are deal breakers.

I thought the fact that I was comfortable with most nut widths must be because I have small hands, but I just bought a new pair of gloves and the ones that fit me best were marked "XL."

 

[donnylang]

Interesting. I think my hands are probably on the larger or larger-medium side, and I like the super narrow widths. My ‘68 D40 feels pretty narrow. I also like the super wide flat classical and early 12-string 2” nuts too ... along with the inbetween later 12 strings too.
BUT I’ve played plenty of examples that are uncomfortable to play for me based on neck thickness, curve of board and the action combo of that particular guitar etc.
One thing I’ve learned is that I think the thinness of the neck is the most important factor for comfortable playability for me. I think it’s called “D” shape. Most 1960s Guilds have this thinner neck IME.

 

[wileypickett]

I'm with you again, brother.

When a fingerboard is uncomfortable for me it usually has to do with the thickness of the neck, or the profile, and on some really old guitars, the neck radius. Seldom the nut width. (I have a handmade six-string with a 2" nut that I love.)

A friend has a great sounding 12-fret Martin 12-string from the '70s -- I forget the model number. For whatever reason I find it a bear to play, and I'm still not sure why. The action is good and the neck seems OK, but it just feels "stiff" -- I don't know how else to describe it. It sounds great in my friend's hands, but I just can't coax music out of it.